The goodies Ive been using to cleanup/treat the rust

Here's what's going in my calipers. Akebono pads, after plenty of research I think these are best for a multi use runner

ss

Pics of the frame after wire wheeling and flap disking the hell outta it using an angle grinder, wipe down with etoh, and a couple coats of the vht rust inhibitor















Came out very clean so far

Great thread with lots of good info! Can't wait to watch the build progress.

Thanks, thats the whole idea as far as I'm concerned! Share the experience and pass on info on what we find, and how things work.
Hopefully it is entertaining and provides some info that will save time and $$ when its your turn.

Always cool when there is some participation too- feedback, advice, or some good ole fashion jousting Cant take this stuff too seriously

Been getting pissed at the rear hatch not lifting all the way, sat about 6" low and was bumping my head on it or having to lift it by hand! Ugh!! Even annoying when its sitting in my driveway on jack stands.
Saw the solution on another build here, thanks @tmcintosh3

Armstrong hatch lift struts #6107 bought em off Amazon. Perfect fit, simple install. I thought i was going to have to play with the little ball/clip joint, but these even came with brackets for both ends. SIMPLE does not get any simpler.
Lifts quicker and to the top, time will tell if it stands the test





reused the gasket on the doorframe




STOKED!

Cleaned up the frame rust and got a good coat of primer and top coat paint on the frame and rear axle.
In the process of reassembly. Taking it slow and cleaning it up as i go.
Rear is first.
Heres the cleanup:






slipped a set of daystar bumps i had laying around, much better shape than the clapped out OEMS that were on it. These were made for the 1st ten runners running leafs, but fit perfect.



one particular nasty rusted out area, cleaned it up best i could, but still was covered. Rust Converter did its job



clean n free of da nasty








welded in a set of TrailWorxFab HD Upper rear control arm brackets, made for the FJ but fit just fine. i trimmed them up a bit since I'm welding them in.
Bomber, should hold up to some abuse.





Diff. breather raised up out of harms way, mostly
Crown Performance brakelines all around. SS and extended where needed



Diagrams of brake line routing and Parking brake assembly, if needed for reference





should have the rear back together tomorrow, if kids, puppies, or other responsibilities don't get in the way!!

Picked up a set of replacement Prothane rear swaybar bushings.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Found them posted in another thread where it was believed to be a direct swap using the stock brackets and these bushings, 21mm hole.
They are not. ;(
different width and diameter. Hole matches, but thats it. They do sell a kit with a new bracket too, not sure if that fits or not, next time.





was able to mash them in there anyway. Figure for the $12 i paid, i could mash them in, see if they work. Likely they will tear themselves up and get spit out. Whatever. Can always slip the old rubber POS back in.



Installed the rear ATL rotors, 4th gen.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5th gen Centric Calipers from Rockauto, coated with the Duplicator caliper paint.
Akebono ceramic pads
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Applied mandatory copper anti-seize to the hub to prevent a rotor frozen on later. Adjusted the parking brakes back to function, and hooked up the brakelines.
still need to get the front done before i can bleed the lines.
Looks nice, hope it stops

This entire thread is full of win. Nice work Z... seriouly nice work. This build is slowing killing my wallet.

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with the brakes reassembled, i spent the rest of the day attaching control arms and slipping in the springs.
ICON LCAs, Front Range Off Road UCAs and PanHard, Toytec RCC2.0HD springs, ICON 2.5 RR shocks.



Hacked off the resonator for a side exit exhaust. May slip a tip on later depending.
The exhaust will need some type of bracing near the end as well, don't let anyone tell you otherwise. As it sits it has quite a bit of bounce to it and will strike the frame with any serious fun going on.







Adjustable swaybar links by @MStudt on T4R- sharp!



still need to bleed the brakes and solidly mount the shock reservoirs

Also picked up an RCI steel gas tank skid on a group buy deal. Nice big beefy plate of steel, install went very smooth as a one man job.







Slipped on the rear tires one dropped her on the ground so i feel like its getting closer to driving again
Need some rear mudflap mod ideas!









now to dig into that front!!

Looking good Aaron! Can't wait to see the final result.

Frozen/rust bonded LCA cam bolts!

One so frozen the LCA bushing barely even flexed. Had to cut the bolts to pull the arm
Anyone have opinions on aftermarket vs OEM Toy replacements? Im leaning OEM

OEM, or shell out the money for the Total Chaos. Be sure to grease the cam bolts on the new one to prevent from happening again.

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just to be clear, I'm not replacing the LCA- YET! this is just the cam bolts in need.

and thanks for the lube suggestions. Im a huge fan of Copper Antiseize on all bolts and bushings, then in wet enviro or low/exposed parts adding marine RedLine bearing grease

Do you have a link to either? Would love to try it out

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Permatex copper anit-sieze. super badass for anything you don't want to stick together after assembly

https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-09...per+anti+seize

Redline CV-2 synthetic bearing grease. waterproof and high temp. as good as it gets

https://smile.amazon.com/Red-Line-80...bearing+grease