01-02-2018, 01:54 AM
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#61
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Did min today. A few modifications to the methods described in the first post.
1) use a pump to first pump out all the fluid from the reservoir. This allows you to disconnect the hose without any fluid running out. I used a pump I had previously used to change my diff oil.
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-L.../dp/B000BQW5LK
2) Get a 3/8" inner diameter PVC hose and a splicer (together about $12 in Home Depot). Follow instructions in the link below on how to hook them up. I was able to remove hoses without any fluid spilling.
Changing Power Steering Fluid - advice needed - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
3) Use the same pump to pump new fluid back into the reservoir. With a funnel the fluid tends to back up and overflow. The pump also gives you more control so you can top the fluid off to Cold Max.
All in all took probably about 20 minutes to get this done.
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01-02-2018, 04:06 PM
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#62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BagiMT
Did min today. A few modifications to the methods described in the first post.
1) use a pump to first pump out all the fluid from the reservoir. This allows you to disconnect the hose without any fluid running out. I used a pump I had previously used to change my diff oil.
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-L.../dp/B000BQW5LK
2) Get a 3/8" inner diameter PVC hose and a splicer (together about $12 in Home Depot). Follow instructions in the link below on how to hook them up. I was able to remove hoses without any fluid spilling.
Changing Power Steering Fluid - advice needed - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
3) Use the same pump to pump new fluid back into the reservoir. With a funnel the fluid tends to back up and overflow. The pump also gives you more control so you can top the fluid off to Cold Max.
All in all took probably about 20 minutes to get this done.
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did you have to bleed at the end?..or this method removes the need for bleeding
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01-02-2018, 09:17 PM
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#63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by earthrealm
did you have to bleed at the end?..or this method removes the need for bleeding
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As long as you keep the reservoir full when you turn the wheels to pump out the old fluid there is no need for bleeding. Air can only get into the return line and gets pumped out into the reservoir when you turn the wheels. If any air should get into the system it can be pushed out by steering from lock to lock a couple of times.
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01-30-2018, 11:18 AM
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#64
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Reviving an old thread here, but why is the key in the "on" position, but the vehicle not turned on during flush. It seems like you'd potentially be leaving some of the old fluid in the pump if it's not working.
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01-30-2018, 11:42 AM
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#65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jminz
Reviving an old thread here, but why is the key in the "on" position, but the vehicle not turned on during flush. It seems like you'd potentially be leaving some of the old fluid in the pump if it's not working.
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You need to have your key in the ignition so the steering wheel doesn't lock.
Great DIY thread btw OP!
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01-30-2018, 11:55 AM
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#66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piggity
You need to have your key in the ignition so the steering wheel doesn't lock.
Great DIY thread btw OP!
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I'm asking why the vehicle is not started during flush. Seems by not starting that there is old fluid left in the pump. Or no?
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
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2000 T4R SR5 Black-Sold
2003 Toyota Tacoma TRD-Sold
2006 T4R Sport, V8, Shadow Mica. OME lift. JBA UCAs. Firestone bags. 265/70/17 BFG KO2. FN fx pro wheels.- Sold (mistake)
2007 Lexus GX470, Dobinson 2'', Firestone bags, TRD Pro wheels, General Grabber ATx
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01-30-2018, 11:57 AM
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#67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jminz
I'm asking why the vehicle is not started during flush. Seems by not starting that there is old fluid left in the pump. Or no?
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You are pumping it manually by moving the wheel from lock to lock...
I did it myself too, was a lot easier than i thought it would be.
Don't forget to jack the front wheels off the ground.
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01-30-2018, 07:14 PM
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#68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jminz
I'm asking why the vehicle is not started during flush. Seems by not starting that there is old fluid left in the pump. Or no?
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If you start the engine with the lines disconnected you will for one have a big mess on your hands, and the pump can run dry with is not good for the pump.
That all being said by doing this manually it also flushes the pump as well to a degree, there will be little to none of the old fluid left in the pump as there's very little fluid in the pump at any giving time even while the engine is running due to the way the pump works.
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Last edited by AuSeeker; 01-30-2018 at 07:17 PM.
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01-31-2018, 01:21 PM
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#69
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Great info, thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker
If you start the engine with the lines disconnected you will for one have a big mess on your hands, and the pump can run dry with is not good for the pump.
That all being said by doing this manually it also flushes the pump as well to a degree, there will be little to none of the old fluid left in the pump as there's very little fluid in the pump at any giving time even while the engine is running due to the way the pump works.
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2000 T4R SR5 Black-Sold
2003 Toyota Tacoma TRD-Sold
2006 T4R Sport, V8, Shadow Mica. OME lift. JBA UCAs. Firestone bags. 265/70/17 BFG KO2. FN fx pro wheels.- Sold (mistake)
2007 Lexus GX470, Dobinson 2'', Firestone bags, TRD Pro wheels, General Grabber ATx
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01-31-2018, 01:59 PM
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#70
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if you start the car with the lines disconnected, here's what happens: the pressure inside the system is so great that the 7/32 line you've plugged into the return line will blow off in spectacular fashion. the pump, running at full force, will blow the entirety of the fluid in the system onto the garage floor in 2 or 3 seconds, tops.
then, to fill the system, you'll rig the return line directly into a milk jug, the jug half sideways in the engine bay next to the reservoir. then, fill the reservoir. start the car for a half second, turn it off. add more fluid. rinse/repeat.
then, you'll come back to this thread later, and realize you shouldn't have been starting the car to do this all along. at least that's what my friend told me.
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02-18-2018, 11:45 PM
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#71
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Phenomenal write up, thank you OP!
Followed steps, but left the car on the ground. Had clean red fluid after about 1 quart but continued until I had used a full two quarts to ensure everything was clean.
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02-19-2018, 02:00 PM
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#72
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I was unable to get my return line off the reservoir so I ended up pumping it out after each turn. Took longer but it worked fine.
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2006 T4R Sport, V8, Shadow Mica. OME lift. JBA UCAs. Firestone bags. 265/70/17 BFG KO2. FN fx pro wheels.- Sold (mistake)
2007 Lexus GX470, Dobinson 2'', Firestone bags, TRD Pro wheels, General Grabber ATx
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02-19-2018, 08:03 PM
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#73
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This is a great write-up for a simple job that's well worth doing.
I have a quick question for those of you who have done this:
I completed this on my 2006 without issue. Fluid was nasty at 167K and needed changed.
It was so easy to do I also did it on my 2014 with 57K. I had no issue with the job on the 06, but the 14 gave me some trouble. Refilled to the cold mark. I bled the system lock-to-lock a number of times with the wheels off the ground. I reinstalled the cap and did it a few more times. Went back around to find new fluid dripping on the ground - probably a couple of tablespoons - my guess is it came out of the cap. I washed it down thoroughly and took it out today. There is a little residual fluid on the reservoir, it might have leaked a little more.
For any of you who have done this: did anyone have a similar issue? Is it possible I had some air in the system that came out forcibly from the reservoir/cap?
Thanks.
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Last edited by mooch91; 02-20-2018 at 07:40 AM.
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05-21-2018, 06:15 PM
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#74
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Quick question: For those that took the reservoir out and cleaned it. What did you use to clean it? I read one guy using gasoline to soak it in. But what might be some other things I could use to clean it?
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10-30-2018, 02:57 PM
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#75
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reviving this thread, and have a question, whats the difference if you use power steering fluid than using ATF?
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