01-03-2018, 08:01 PM
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#16
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So I directly powered the actuator by disconnecting the harness and powering the terminals directly and had no luck. So I removed 4 of the screws and opened the case on the 4 runner enough to check the power terminals on the motor. I put a touch of solder on each and realized when I was closing up that part of the switch controller was laying in the bottom of the assembly. Looks like it’s getting replaced! Thanks for the help!!
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02-20-2018, 07:12 PM
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#17
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Thanks
Hey turtle I read your info several times since it sounds like your one of those who actually knows what there talking about. I just got done fixing my actuator per your instructions and it was flawless the motor was a little seized broke it loose let it spin and put all the gears back just as a mark them. For all you other guys who have so much to say but no nothing just don’t say nothing at all if you don’t know what you’re talking about thanks again Carol I would have never of tackled it without reading your post for fixing it and knowing how it works great job!!!!!!!!
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06-03-2019, 02:31 PM
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#18
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These directions are Great!
Eturtle53,
Those pics and directions saved me some huge $$$$! Thanks so much. I had a large quantity of water in mine and am sure this is why it stuck last winter. Made the mistake of not researching and just pulling apart without marking the gears. I went with your marks and it is working fine. Having a few issues with the differential actuator sticking now but should be easy compared to Tcase actuator. My actuator was a slightly different configuration... When you pull the bottom off the sensor, long pins that go all the way to the top and wire harness plug into are attached to the cover. (probably work around so that people don't run with the bottom cover off and have everything fly all over the place. Very thankful for your details. Anyone who pulls theirs apart can be sure to use this info.
Note: I found that in two-wheel drive the blue wheel on the bottom indicator is to the left -). In 4x4 the tab marks are lined up (this symbol facing down) -). I didn't check with the dif lock but am assuming that it would face (- . Anyone verify that this is the case?
Last edited by phillipscr; 06-03-2019 at 02:34 PM.
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06-17-2019, 04:13 AM
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#19
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Hi guys. Reviving an old thread. I’m pulling apart a 2007 v6 transfer case to replace the actuator. I have new pics to add as soon as it will let me do a write up. I am curious though if anyone knows anything about the “keys” that go in the center diff lock. When I split the cases they fell out.
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06-30-2019, 07:34 PM
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#20
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It helped me
Thank you Eturtle53!
Mine fell and the metal gear/big wheel separated. After reassembly it got stuck in 4HI. Then found your picture.
6th pic - Close-up of the metal gear. The "flat" of the metal wheel is where the "floor/ white armed" position switch goes. That is for people who are stuck in 4Hi and won't have 2Hi timing marks.
And reassembled properly this time the metal and the big wheel.
Works again!
As a note, mine was leaking at the actuator oil seal and had to attempt a reseal. the removal of the transmission/TC was intimidating so tried to separate the actuator enough to reseal it this way.
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12-03-2019, 07:49 AM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eturtle53
So here is the story. It can be repaired with no manual, no transfer case removal, and no "timing" required. Just a few tools and some common sense.
The story (skip if you just want the DIY part)
About 4-5 months ago I went off-roading like any good 4Runner owner. While out there I ran into some water obstacles that had some depth but not much difficulty. A few months later I try to engage the 4WD system to discover it is not operational. So I get onto this outstanding website to troubleshoot. After finding out all sorts of things about the transfer case actuator, I go back out to my Runner to lightly tap on the actuator and within 10 taps or so it engages. I'm elated that it just seized a little and came right back. I also noted the breather tube on top had a hole in it so I fixed it. About a month later the same things happens again with the same repair working, this time it took quite the few taps, a drive, a few more taps, then it all started working again.
About another month later it happens again and no amount of tapping, driving, twisting or turning will make it engage. I hear the single click from the 4WD ECU in the vehicle trying but nothing is happening so I decided to get serious.
I took off the bottom cover for the actuator. I then poured the rusty,dirty, water like substance in the actuator onto myself as I opened the case. Immediately I realized that the breather tube's hole allowed water in the last time I got into water and it has been in there since having no where to go. As I'm looking at the inside, it appears the only thing corroded was the 4Hi DC motor, but at least I know why it doesn't work now. I perform the below steps I made up as I went and reassemble. It now works flawlessly and better than it ever did. Fully functioned check multiple times for all operations, 2Hi, 4Hi, 4Lo and both 4WD functions with center diff lock. Verified on jack stands as well.
Steps for Repair, broken down in 2 levels because the gears may not have to come out.
I put the 4Runner on jackstands because I just barely squeeze under my non-lifted truck and I also wanted to be able to spin driveshafts but it's not required.
1)Remove the steel shield on the bottom of the transfer case actuator. Beware what might come out.
2)Mark the gears. As you can see from the pics I marked the position of every gear I knew was going to fall/ come-out. There are only 2 marks that matter. The large gear at the top w/ the metal tabs and the blue pointer on the position switch. The large gear must be aligned with the actual case, don't use another gear.
If you don't remove the 2 screws on the left/ rear holding the position switch it will hold all of the gears in place and nothing will move.
3)If you are not getting any sound out of the motor and it doesn't appear to be trying, you can turn the key on and switch it to 4Hi. The bottom connector of the DC motor is the positive and you can use the transfer case as a ground to see if power is going there. Mine had power but was completely seized. Be warned the cover holds the gear shafts in place and they will bind if it runs while open, it isn't likely to hurt anything but you will then HAVE to set the gears back to the correct positions.
3a)Use the widest screwdriver that will fit into the hole that I am putting a screwdriver into in the pic. It's hard to see, but there is a plastic connection where the DC motor connects to the brass worm gear. It is not one shaft. Gently turn the motor, perhaps with the help of some WD-40 or PB Blaster. Mine was extremely stiff so I worked it about 10 times for 1/8 turn and it suddenly freed up and I could then spin in using my finger on the worm gear. Mind you I had all the gears off, you won't get much motion. You might be able to "lift" that gear away from the worm to spin it. No worries, it just drives the others, timing or position doesn't matter. Direction of rotation doesn't matter for the DC motor either while you're trying to free it.
That is end of of the first level. Installation is the reverse of removal and be gentle putting the cover back on. It is getting serious now. Read all before attempting.
4)Remove those 2 screws on the left/ back holding in the position switch. Gently pull it down. There is a long piece that goes into the plug at the top and it sleeves over those 2 posts so it takes a little effort. You should have already marked the top of that gear so spin it and make sure you feel some resistance in a few places where it switches. This switch tells the ECU in what mode the transfer case is in.
5)Once that position switch has been removed the gears shouldn't just fall out but they are free to do so. The gear driven by the worm gear and the other plastic one can be removed. They just drive the gear w/ metal tabs so they make no difference and all the shafts are smooth, nothing keyed.
6)When the first gear comes out, the metal tabbed gear will fall along with the metal gear beneath it and the 4WD Hi shift rod will be visible. No worries about timing with the metal gear, it can only attach one way to the gear that was on top of it.
7)I exercised the shift rod to ensure it was free (which it was). It can move all the way out with no ill effects (ie you can't pull it out too far). I then put it back all the way in and verified it was in 2WD by spinning the front driveshaft.
8)This is where I stuck the screwdriver in and freed to motor then spun it with my finger while lubricating (WD-40).
9)I reinstalled the position switch and lined it up with my mark. I did this so the ECU would power the DC motor so I could verify operation. I turned the key on and switched from 2Hi to 4Hi and it spun the motor. There is no limit switch so as long as the vehicle's switch is in 4HI it will run continously and I sprayed some more lube on the motor.
10)I reached up and changed the position of the switch counter-clockwise until the DC motor stopped spinning. At which time you should hear the ADD on the front differential engage. I did the same thing with 4Lo which it engaged with no issue. 4Lo has its own position switch which is visible in the pics. I did not go into the 4Lo system/ gears since it was well above the water that got into the case and was working just fine. This step also verified the operation of that position switch since mine had some rusty water on it and was slightly corroded.
Here is the reassemby, clean and lubricate parts as necessary.
11)Put the metal gear and its plastic top gear back together.
12)Make sure the shift rod is all the way back in towards the transfer case and rotated the right way with the geared side at about the same angle as the actuator. Rotate the front driveshaft if necessary.
13)Put the gear assembly back into position, however you marked it. It has some freeplay because of the little gear engagement onto the shift rod. Had I known this when I took it apart I would've paid attention to exactly where it was but it didn't turn out to be too critical.
14)Place the worm's driven gear back into position.
15)Place the last gear on top, again its position doesn't matter as long as it engages the other gears.
16)This one matters. Put the position switch back into position and make sure that gear engages the top of the metal gear assembly. Then make sure both of your marks still line up.
17)Don't test it with the cover off, it will bind the gears and you'll have to do it all again, believe me I did it. Replace the cover but just use the 3 screws in case you have to try again.
18) Op check. If it's up on jackstands put it in neutral, turn the key on and go from 2Hi to 4Hi. Then you can get under it and rotate the driveshafts around until it engages. That spring on the metal gear can delay the engagement of 4Hi until it lines up (that is its purpose). So if you hear that after the DC motors have stopped turning don't worry about it.
Hints, tips, and tricks
If at anytime you get all the 4WD lights to blink, turn off the key, reset the 4WD switch and try again. It will get angry if it gets unplugged with power on or if the ignition is on without it plugged in. It resets immediately.
The actuator must tell the ECU that it is in 4WD prior to it attempting to engage the ADD on the front diff. So the ADD will not prevent the actuator from operating.
The shift rods are bathed in gear oil during operation. I highly doubt that they will ever seize from non-use. When people loosen the 3 bolts and wiggle the actuator it is just moving the gears inside enough to free the DC motor(s).
If a few love taps fix the actuator and it starts working, I would immediately take the cover off and spray some WD-40 on things, especailly that 4WD Hi DC motor.
It took me 3 tries to get the gears perfect. First time I had the cover off when I tried to work it and the gears got jammed up, no damage done. The second time the shift rod wasn't all the way back in from the first attempt and I didn't notice. 3rd time was the charm.
If your 4Runner is stuck in 4Hi, I'd do all of the above and put the shift rod to the 2Hi position (all the way in). The switch (5th pic) on the "floor" of the actuator is moved by the metal gear as it rotates. You could get very close to the correct timing by making sure that switch is free (like the pic) when you reinstall that metal gear assembly, it can't be more than 1 tooth off either way with that in the correct position.
1st pic - You can still see the corrosion on the DC motor and this was after cleaning several times. Underneath is the 4Lo gears and position switch (white half moon). 4Hi shift rod in on the left.
2nd pic - "Before" As it came off the line.
3rd pic - shift rod fully in (2Hi)
4th pic - Position switch in place w/o gears
5th pic - Where the screwdriver goes to free the DC motor
6th pic - Close-up of the metal gear. The "flat" of the metal wheel is where the "floor/ white armed" position switch goes. That is for people who are stuck in 4Hi and won't have 2Hi timing marks.
7th pic - My markings on the big gear. I used the tab on the side of the case so I only had to mark the gear and it was easy to see.
Hope this helps someone. I have more pics if needed.
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This is eppic work. But reading through many posts, the breather seems to be the issue with lettin in condensation and freezing up the motors and gears
Crazy thought on my part, but wouldnt it be possible to just run a lithium grease spray or some type of lubricant down into the breather hose?! In which it will Coming contact with the dc motor and or anything else the water came in contact with?
Seems the simplest way to come in direct contact with the internals without actually tearing anything apart?!!!
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12-08-2019, 02:47 PM
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#22
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I realize this is an old post, but hoping someone has a answer. In the attached photo, is the switch circled in red, replaceable, or does the entire actuator have to be replaced?
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01-24-2020, 03:18 PM
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#23
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I have a 05 4 Runner V8 AWD and the CDL button was pushed and locked in and wouldn't disengage. We changed the transfer case and now the car is stuck in 4 lo. Dealership said it maybe out of time and should be able to disconnect the switch and hook back up to fix it. Does anyone if this is true?
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05-06-2020, 04:33 PM
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#24
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What is the wire gauge going into the Transfer Case Actuator Switch
Does anyone know the wire gauge that is used for the 2001 Toyota 4Runner Actuator switch sensors?
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05-20-2020, 04:27 PM
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#25
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Hoping some one can help me. I have an 07 v6 4runner. I followed the instructions in this forum to unfreeze my transfer case motor. I put everything back together and all the actuators seem to be working and in time. I can hear the TC actuator engage first and then the front diff right after. But...when I switch to 4hi the dash lights just flash and it doesn't fully engage.
If I press the diff lock button while driving the green 4 wheel drive light and the yellow diff lock light stop flashing and stay solid but the "VSC off" light comes on. When i go back to 2Hi all the lights will turn back off.
Any ideas what is going on here?
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05-20-2020, 05:36 PM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jungle
Hoping some one can help me. I have an 07 v6 4runner. I followed the instructions in this forum to unfreeze my transfer case motor. I put everything back together and all the actuators seem to be working and in time. I can hear the TC actuator engage first and then the front diff right after. But...when I switch to 4hi the dash lights just flash and it doesn't fully engage.
If I press the diff lock button while driving the green 4 wheel drive light and the yellow diff lock light stop flashing and stay solid but the "VSC off" light comes on. When i go back to 2Hi all the lights will turn back off.
Any ideas what is going on here?
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Any time you engage the center differential lock it automatically turns off the Stability Control and turns on the VSC off light. That's normal. Not sure about why it's not engaging 4Hi though.
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07-11-2020, 03:24 PM
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#27
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Here's my story with the actuator issues thus far.
4th of July weekend, I did an overnight camping trip up to the mountains in the 4Runner. Mine is an 03 V8 4wd, so full time 4wd with center diff lock. 4lo and center diff were working that friday and for about 5 minutes the following Saturday morning. Then they stopped and it wouldn't engage 4lo any longer. I gave up and started the trek home. Well, the 4Lo indicator light on the dash started flashing at me and wouldn't turn off. 4hi was still working fine so I was able to get home without issue.
I get home and Sunday, I popped the cover off the actuator housing and have about 1/2 quart of gear oil dump on me. So, I knew the shaft seals were shot, or at least one of them. Ordered up new seals and o-ring and received them this past Friday.
Crawled under the truck today and pulled the actuator housing off the t-case so I could clean it up and replace the shaft seals and o-ring. Come to find out, the hole for the diff lock seal is cracked in 2 places and the "cap" that holds the o-ring in place is also broken. So none of that is going to help now, I have to replace the actuator. Yay me!
New actuator from Toyota, which includes the shafts, is part # 3641060093 and has a MSRP of $1,364.
That actuator is used on the following vehicles per Toyota:
Toyota 4Runner 4.0L V6 4WD AT LIMITED 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
Toyota 4Runner 4.0L V6 4WD AT Limted 2016, 2017, 2018
Toyota 4Runner 4.0L V6 4WD AT SR5 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
Toyota 4Runner 4.0L V6 4WD AT SR5 Premium 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
Toyota 4Runner 4.0L V6 4WD AT Trail 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016
Toyota 4Runner 4.0L V6 4WD AT TRAIL Premium 2014, 2015, 2016
Toyota 4Runner 4.0L V6 4WD AT TRD Off-Road 2017, 2018
Toyota 4Runner 4.0L V6 4WD AT TRD Off-Road Premium 2017, 2018
Toyota 4Runner 4.0L V6 4WD AT TRD Pro 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
Toyota 4Runner 4.0L V6 AT 2019, 2020
Toyota 4Runner 4.7L V8 4WD AT LIMITED 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
Toyota 4Runner 4.7L V8 4WD AT Sport Edition SR5 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
Toyota 4Runner 4.7L V8 4WD AT SR5 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 Aftermarket AISIN part is SAT-003 and runs $498 from RockAuto.
AISIN SAT003 4WD Actuator | RockAuto
Used ebay items range from around $200 to $400 from what I have found so far.
Still have to order the replacement but I thought I'd contribute to the thread with what I have so far. Hare are the pics of my actuator.
This was right after pulling the cover and having gear oil dump on me.
New seals and o-ring. O-ring is a Toyota part and the shaft seals are these - Shaft Oil Seals TC15x23x7
Center diff lock gears removed. The 4Lo stuff is below them. The center diff seal is the only one that leaked.
Actuator housing removed. The orange RTV is from a previous bandaid fix by the PO.
And the actuator where the shafts go into it and seal to the t-case.
4Lo gears and motor. These were still dry since the diff lock gears and motor actually sit lower when on the t-case. The metal gear is what engages the shift shaft for 4Lo and is in the "park" position from pulling the actuator off the t-case.
This is the broken shift shaft seal retainer/o-ring retainer.
I didn't notice the cracked housing until I had cleaned up the empty housing and put the new seals in place. New seals and o-ring still won't fix this leak and explains all the orange RTV that was used.
All I have for now. Looking for a replacement actuator now and will have to wait for that to be delivered.
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FJ tcase swap, VVT intake swap, Solid Offroad motor mounts, Doug Thorley y-pipe, Bold Performance cat-back, ADS shocks F&R, Metal Tech LTHD springs rear, 1" body lift, 285/75/17 Toyo R/T Trails on Sequoia rims, Coastal front bumper, CAD rear bumper
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08-11-2020, 06:50 PM
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#28
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@ xtremewlr
any update? I opened mine up and it was completely full of water. The motor was free but the gears fell out unmarked. A couple posts above i believe sound helpful and ill give it a try to time them.
My question is how did you remove the actuator? when I unbolted it, it would slide about 1" but bottom out. It felt like it was getting hung up on and c-clip or something else. I stopped pulling afraid to damage anything. Info would be greatly appreciated thanks!
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08-11-2020, 08:01 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deputydan
@ xtremewlr
any update? I opened mine up and it was completely full of water. The motor was free but the gears fell out unmarked. A couple posts above i believe sound helpful and ill give it a try to time them.
My question is how did you remove the actuator? when I unbolted it, it would slide about 1" but bottom out. It felt like it was getting hung up on and c-clip or something else. I stopped pulling afraid to damage anything. Info would be greatly appreciated thanks!
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I was able to remove it by pulling both motors out. However, I was never able to get it working again and have given up. I'm done wasting money and time trying to get the electronically controlled transfer case working again and am swapping in a 2011 FJ Cruiser manual case. I have the new case, just waiting for the rest of the swap parts.
For now, I have the actuator housing back on the stock tcase with new seals so it doesn't leak and am driving it. That gives me 4HI, without the center diff lock, so I can drive it on the street and still do some light wheeling.
I'll have all sorts of pics and somewhat of a write up in my build thread on TacomaWorld, linked in my sig here. Maybe I'll play with a way to convert the stock tcase over to a manually shifter one after I get the FJ tcase installed. Just need to figure out how to seal the 2 shafts and connect shifters to them.
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2003 4Runner Limited 4wd V8 - Build thread on Tacoma World
FJ tcase swap, VVT intake swap, Solid Offroad motor mounts, Doug Thorley y-pipe, Bold Performance cat-back, ADS shocks F&R, Metal Tech LTHD springs rear, 1" body lift, 285/75/17 Toyo R/T Trails on Sequoia rims, Coastal front bumper, CAD rear bumper
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08-11-2020, 10:40 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtremewlr
I was able to remove it by pulling both motors out. However, I was never able to get it working again and have given up. I'm done wasting money and time trying to get the electronically controlled transfer case working again and am swapping in a 2011 FJ Cruiser manual case. I have the new case, just waiting for the rest of the swap parts.
For now, I have the actuator housing back on the stock tcase with new seals so it doesn't leak and am driving it. That gives me 4HI, without the center diff lock, so I can drive it on the street and still do some light wheeling.
I'll have all sorts of pics and somewhat of a write up in my build thread on TacomaWorld, linked in my sig here. Maybe I'll play with a way to convert the stock tcase over to a manually shifter one after I get the FJ tcase installed. Just need to figure out how to seal the 2 shafts and connect shifters to them.
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Converting the electronic case to manual would be awesome and probably save a lot of people headache if there was a documented conversion.
I've been following your build thread on TW too, looks great and the new graphics are awesome. I also appreciate you taking time to document the tcase troubleshooting and conversion.
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