thanks, going to call metal tech up on the phone. Currently running the durobumps which are a few inches longer than stock. I'll look at wheelers too.

I have gone through every single post here.. and have absorbed so much information thank you for the great idea and everyone's input this helps so many people its incredible.

Here is an overview of this forum... 2020 update!

What is needed to lift your 4th gen 4runner if you plan on running 35s! Please add or correct any info here and i will update it. Yes some of these are my personal preference but can use common sense to pick and choose your setup.

Tire Size: 315/70/17
Tire Make/Model: Havent made a decision here yet
Wheels: Method 305 Matte Black 17x8.5 ( probably have to use 1.25 wheel spacers )
Bodylift: 1 inch BL ( to help with clearance )
Suspension: Radflo 2.5 front Coilovers w/ 650lb coils & extended travel, 2.5 rear extended with the OME 895 rear springs.
Aftermarket UCA's: Total Chaos Uniball
Caster correction: Minimum 4* and maximum 6.1*
Bumpers/Armor/Accessories: Will be doing a hybrid style front bumper with a winch, sliders w/ kickout, rear swing out, full skids, and RTT, down the road do a dometic fridge and camp/kitchen with a drawer sliding system
Trimming: Mandatory body mount chop, pinch weld hammered in, and plastics trimmed on fenders/bumpers
Bumpstops Extensions: Rule of thumb is have extensions as big as your lift.. so 3" lift.. 3" bumpstop extension. Keep in mind these might change if you have aftermarket bumpstops. Use a tape measure!

Other things that come to mind that you may be interested in modifying..

-LT links for the rear ( helps move rear axle back 1" from the door/body area)
-solid spacer for the rear diff instead of crush spacer (Nitro Toyota 8″ Solid Pinion Spacer)
-If LT rear make sure to get extended brake lines
-Spindle gusset swaybar edition for better strength
-Sway bar delete front and rear
-4.88 Gearing for the V8 down the road if stock ones i dont like
-While we all know that 35s put more stress on all the parts.. Would be a good idea to rebuild the LCAs aswell, with Poly bushings and Moog greasable lower ball joints, throw some BAMF skids on there aswell and got a solid setup, even replacing the tie rod ends is not a bad idea ( keep the stock parts as a trail replacement )


This was an overview of most posts in these forums and to my conclusion a great place to start your research for lifting your T4R.

This is also kudos to everyone who posted in here, much appreciated and this should help many more people... thank you everyone and lets go places! See ya on the trails.

315/70/17 no body lift. Will fill out soec sheet soon !

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Rear

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I like how 35's have become so doable as more and more people share their builds. I may just have to bite the bullet when new tires are needed. I think I can fit them, but may need less aggressive wheels than what I currently have. Also might regear since I have the 1GR-FE.

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Looks great BendRunner. Looking at that same rack/awning setup.

finally got out on the trail to check for clearances. the rears stuff pretty well, but rub, so I gotta cut more from the rear bumper. but the fronts have no rubbing anywhere.

need to get some rear bumpstop extensions as well. at "full stuff" the stock has about 2" of space left to go.







J.

Tire Size: 315/75R16
Tire Make/Model: Falken Wildpeak M/T
Wheels: Motegi MR150 16X8 +0 4.5 backspacking
Bodylift: 1"
Approx. Suspension lift setting over stock: 3"
Aftermarket UCA's: SPC UCA
Caster correction: ~2.5 degrees
Bumpers: Lil B's Hybrid Front Bumper
Trimming: BMC, pinch welds, rear bumper
Bumpstop drop? 2" rear bump stops, stock front
Notes: V8 and stock gearing, Radflo 2.5 front coilovers and Dobinsons Long Travel in the rear, removed front sway bar
Does it still rub at full compression? Rubs fender flare at full compression, need to trim that.
Any issues? Tires rub frame at full lock and tire is extremely close to the UCA.
Anything you would do differently? Only thing different I would do differently is get lower offset wheels and higher rated front springs. Possibly re-gear later on.
Biggest pain-point with running 35's on the 4th Gen? Getting discount tire to correctly balance my tires after 3 different balances.
Are your links extended to push the axle further rearwards? Front Range Offroad Lower Link Kit and panhard bar

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do you have any pics of your rear fender/bumper trimming? also, how's it drive on the road with no front sway bar? do you have the rear sway on?

J.

Bumping this thread since I just made the step up, 315/70-17 on 17x9 -38. Will fill out specs as soon as I get rubbing sorted!

My question is how much/which BMC are people using? I have approx. 3" lift and a 1" body lift, caster corrected, with the typical cut bumper/flat pinch weld/BMC. Rub free with the old 295s but now I'm hitting the body mount and front bumper. I'll cut whatever I need off the bumper but I want to know what people are doing with the body mount. My OCD wants to be rub free again so I'm hoping that's an option.

You can always relocate it, kits aren't too bad and the welding shouldn't be too expensive.

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I've thought about that, and that's honestly what I'll probably end up doing. Just trying to see what people have done with the existing mount in the meantime.

I just bought a 4th gen because I’m in the process of stuffing 37s under my 1st gen tacoma, wanted something I can daily and tow a little with... why did I have to find this thread! Ordering up a nice dobinsons lt set up, and Roger Brown (4crawler) is only about 30 minutes from me so I can go snag a body lift whenever.. I guess I’ll have to toss my 37’s on once I have everything installed, you know, just to see what’s up

Tire Size: 35x12.50R17
Tire Make/Model: Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003
Wheels: 17x7.5 +15 offset + 1.25" Spidertrax spacers
Bodylift: No
Approx. Suspension lift setting over stock: 3" Dobinsons extended front/long travel rear
Aftermarket UCA's: SPC
Caster correction: LCA full caster forward with Taco Tabs, SPC UCAs at setting G
Bumpers: front True North Fab hybrid - rear - tube bumper/carrier (soon)
Trimming: Already had a BMC for 295s, pinch weld was beat up front even though I didn't really need it back then. Rear mudguards trimmed but still hits the cover - will be trimming when I do the rear bumper.
Bumpstop drop? Durobumps F/R, Rear 2" bumpstop extensions for LT
Notes: Clears the BMC pretty easily but I think I get a little frame rub on full lock. Not sure I would do anything different - need to look into wheel offsets a bit more. Getting the proper alignment is the most crucial to get the front tires as fr forward as they can possibly be - maxing the LCA cam bolts to rear outboard and front inboard + SPC setting G gives you as most as you can get. No links on her yet, will probably try 3/16" extended soon.

Here’s mine, it rubs on JBA UCA from lock to lock and little flex, im wondering if SPC will not rub does anyone know? My wheel specs 315 70 17/ 17x9 -12 4.5 BS. I can return my JBA and get a full refund and buy SPC instead.

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