front is 1" dropped to meet the TC LCA race arm bump pad. rear is 1.75" dropped.

Well you have most components already. You will either need to trim some points and either limit travel in the rear, or move the rear axle back a little, or add a little more lift. Your choice. 1-1.5" body lift and you're real close. You have already regeared, so you're good there too. Of course you can trim a bunch and make them fit without more lift too. Just depends on what you prefer.

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

Tire Size: 35x12.50r17
Tire Make/Model: Toyo Open Country MT
Wheels: Stock OEM Wheels
Bodylift: Yes. Roger Brown 1.5"
Approx. Suspension lift setting over stock: I don't have numbers without my BL. But measurements from center of wheel to top of fender are:
Front: 26"
Rear: 25.75"
Aftermarket UCA's: Camburg UCA with Moog Ball Joints
Caster correction: Don't have numbers. Should have within 2 weeks
Bumpers: Front Perkins Bumper and Rear custom built bumper.
Trimming: Body Mount chop. Rear of Front Fenders. XREAS lines on frame
Bumpstop drop? Currently not running bump stop extenstions. Only have OEM
Notes: I rub very little at full lock on my frame. Aftermarket CV's seemed to not carry the 35's as well as OEM.

Wheels:

I currently have my stock wheels. I love the look of them.

I have Spidertrax 1.25" spacers to correct my offset. I have had zero issues with getting any alignment due to my Spidertrax.


Trimming:

This is where a ton of variables come into play. Most running 35's are running aftermarket bumpers, so let's just assume if you're running factory bumpers and 35's you will be required to trim the plastic to make them work. This is true. I ran stock front and rear bumpers with my 35's. My front bumper I had on for a few months with my 35's and I rubbed on the back of my front fender immediately after leaving Tire shop at very little turn. Trimmed that immediately. At compression while off roading I would rub the front some times but very little. The rear would catch at full compression. I removed mud flaps to allow for the plastic bumper to bend and flex with the tires.

Bodymount chop: required. Ditto

Stock Fenders:

Front:
Looking for info... not sure if a 35" tire rubs the bottom of the flare at full compression and/or if the pinchweld area of the fender needs to be cut rearwards with a 35.

Rear:
It looks like people w/o bodylifts have to trim the rear bumper valence on the factory bumper for sure.



Aftermarket fiberglass front fenders:
No trimming required.

Bumpstops: I have read that with 35's and no bodylift, the rear bumpstop drop is a requirement to keep the tire out of the upper fender. Anyone running no bodylift, 35's, and factory bumpstop location? I'm running 35's with 1.5" BL but not bumpstop.

Suspension: Despite what a lot of people think, lift height doesn't actually have anything to do with tire clearance. It will help on the daily as you drive around town, but if you offroad, your tire needs to fit at full lock and full compression. The best way to "fit" a tire properly is to actually remove the front coilover and test fit the tire at full compression, trimming everything that is needed as you cycle the movement of the arms and turn lock to lock. Still, interested to s ee what feedback comes here.



Aftermarket UCA's: This is a topic not normally touched on. From experience, I know that the caster setting plays a significant role in how well a large tire will fit. The ability to push the tire forward and away from the firewall has huge benefits in terms of clearance. This may mean more trimming of the front OEM bumper, but aftermarket bumpers should be fine.

What are the big-tire guys running for UCA caster settings?
I plan on getting alignment in next couple of weeks. Will try to remember to update this post with my numbers.

Thats what I have for now. I will try to dig more into this topic some more. I feel like I have missed some information that will be helpful. I'm at work so I'm not completely focused on this.

See my Build Thread Here: A10MileHusker's Build Page

Here is my rig full compression at the rear.

Rear bumper is incomplete but still shows clearance. The top section is not rubbing. It fit perfectly.

I don't think I want to limit travel in the rear-but I could be convinced if there were a good reason.

I don't know what effect moving the axle would have, but I know I'd have to outsource that and it would be very expensive.

I don't mind the body lift if it's for a good reason (which it would be). RB kits can do 1.5 on the 4th gen, so that might be the way to go. I can trim a bit more, maybe. Might check with my mechanic to make sure I don't trim important stuff.

Ultimately, I want to make sure it still handles well on trails, and can do a u-turn on the street without making it into a multi-point turn.

Thanks for the feedback!

Mine turns on a dime! I've always been surprised how well these things turn.
If not apposed to a body lift get one with larger blocks and heavy hardware and you're all set. You won't need to trim anything important, oh you will need to flatten the pinch welds though! Easy, but necessary.

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

You can either limit up-travel via bump-stop extensions or you an let the wheel well do it for you. Even with 33's at full wheel stuff I would rub/grab the fender plastic; It's about the same for me with the 35's at the moment (though they grab the factory mudflap in the back far worse than anything, there's a couple missing screws between the 33's and 35's pulling them out). The idea is to limit up-travel enough that on full compression the tire isn't getting jammed up by the body work.

If you have a friend with a lathe and a mill you can make your own BL (I went that route and had a buddy make me my 1.5" based on my design specs). But Roger Brown does good work also, I just happened to be able to get it done cheaper my way (I would have done it myself but I don't have a mill or a lathe )

I couldn't limit my rear less unless I didn't want fenders anymore.

@4rcybr forgot, the Bilsteins will work for a bit, but be prepared as the weight of trying to control 35's will ultimately be their demise.

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

This look trimmed enough? Either way, seems like I've got my next project.

Thanks!

Attached Images

       

Huh. Yeah, I think I'd rather not limit it more than it is currently. (You can see pics in my other post).

@4rcybr

That's about how mine looks, though I have more of a small section of the bottom of my fender plastic cut-out.

Here's some of mine. Biggest thing I can say is you may have to go higher on the pinch weld. You can see I was hitting mine all the way up top too. Took several BFH sessions and a little torch to heat it on a few spots too. Lol
Rear


Front


Front bumper chopped for clearance of obstacles, not tires.


Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

Unfortunately, no family or friends in the area that can fabricate stuff. And I can't either, so purchased it is.


Thanks for the heads up. Presumably I wait for them to fail before I worry about that?

I'm thinking the bilstein 6112/5160 combo down the road, but I wasn't planning on it for the next couple years...


Thanks for the pics. I'll come back to reference those when I work on this in the next few months.

Also, they remind me of why I don't live in Michigan anymore. Heh. 67 degrees outside right now where I am, and sunny.

Lol, we finally got some snow! Went wheeling with my buddy. Check out my build thread, 2.5' of fresh powder was fun.
I would assume the 6112 would handle things better, not sure on the 5160. I know I'll never buy another bilstein product again! Complete crap so far. Lol

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

You already have the Metaltech lower links so all you would have to do is unthread the end an inch and reinstall them. This would keep 35's from stuffing near the rear door by pushing them back toward the middle of the wheel well giving your axle more range of movement.