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Old 05-09-2018, 06:11 PM #46
mccand mccand is offline
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Rear Storage System: Part 6 - Future work

For all that I'm thrilled to have had these drawers done and in use, they aren't perfect . . . yet. I've got other things to work on right now, but there are some things that I'll probably change about this system over time. Here's a short list, in no particular order:
  1. The bed extensions require that the front seats be moved all the way forward. Add a hinged section to that they can be left in place while the car is being driven.
  2. Sand a few rough edges that catch on things.
  3. Add some flip-up handles (like these ones) to allow easy access to the wheel well compartments. Right now, it's hard to open them unless the rear hatch is open.
  4. the drawer faces interfere a bit on the bottom corners, sand and re-varnish them to fix that.
  5. Other things, as I think of them.
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Old 05-09-2018, 06:58 PM #47
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Why my next major upgrade is going to be Rock Sliders . . .

So, I worked like mad to get the rear drawers in place for the camping trip this last weekend. And while it was a great trip, there was one . . . incident.

While going down a hill, a large flat stone rolled over between the passenger side wheels, got caught in the rear running board bracket, and smashed it back and up. It ripped some hardware out of the running board, and pushed the running board up far enough that it popped the trim panel off of the rear door.
McCand's Build Thread-img_20180505_161200-800-jpg

Fortunately, there doesn't appear to be any significant damage to the body, and there's nothing wrong with the trim panel that some epoxy won't fix. All the little trim clips are busted though. The local dealer wants $5 PER CLIP for replacements (I didn't bother to ask about the rivets). Needless to say, THAT is not happening. So I've ordered a pack of new clips and rivets for substantially less of amazon. Should be a pretty easy fix.

The running board is probably toast though. So, time to start figuring out which is my favorite set of sliders . . .
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Old 10-11-2018, 11:56 AM #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mccand View Post
Well, I was installing a bunch of other electronics, and I came across this little gem: the Anker "SoundSync Drive" Bluetooth Adaptor


Now that I have the USB ports, right in the console where the AUX in port is located, it's hardly worth calling this a mod - I simply plugged the thing in.

The only real question was where to mount the puck. After some thinking, I ran the wire under the center console and have the puck sitting right on the center divider for the cupholder.
Attachment 248340

A little configuration of my Android phone and we're in business. Here's what I've got going on:
Now, the phone connects whenever I start the car, and plays through the AUX setting on the radio.

There is some alternator whine on the line, which I'm going to have to take care of, but that's a project for another day. (I'm open to suggestions if you have an easy to deal with it!)
So... if a year and a half isn't too late for a response, try using a ferrite core around the audio cable. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead

That *might* help with the alternator whine.

The "real" fix often has to do with your ground source and ground loops, and running your power wire directly from the battery, but given that this device is powered by a USB cord, I don't see much chance of a "real" fix.

Thanks for your write up. I'm enjoying it. I'm looking at putting a HAM radio in my '08 4R limited. Is your radio a Chinese brand? If so, would you share which brand and model.

Also, I should add that those "add a tap" 3M clip ons sometimes cause problems over time, and can be susceptible to noise.

Crimp terminals with heat shrink can be good, but you have to cut the factory wires for that -- something that many suggest you avoid.

I like wrapping the new wires around the existing wire, soldering and sealing with 3M Electrical tape.

Often using a wire stripper like this . can allow you to open a space in the wiring
without cutting it and without too much hassle. Sometimes carefully using a box cutter, you can remove a little more wire coating if necessary. Yes, it takes longer to strip, wrap, solder and tape, but the results usually tend to be more reliable. Over the years I have many intermittent problems problems from those taps. They can become loose where they tap into the main or add-on wire, and this can causes lots of frustration. Occasionally, I've even had the wire eventually break where the tap is installed. -- Just a suggestion.

Thanks!

Last edited by pjbrownva; 10-11-2018 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 10-11-2018, 12:11 PM #49
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So I got one of these, and it made all the difference!

It does seem to attenuate the audio a bit, but the alternater noise is almost completely gone (only noticeable when the volume is WAY up). I think we're good! Thanks for the tip!

(It's amazing how much better the audio from my phone sounds now. $9 well spent!)
Guess I should have finished reading your thread before I responded.
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Old 10-29-2018, 09:12 PM #50
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Guess I should have finished reading your thread before I responded.
It's all good! I didn't even have to break out my trusty Hakko soldering iron! :-)

Anyhow, the radio is indeed a cheap Chinese one: it's an Anytone AT-5888VU. However, many of these small mobile radios use similar mounting hardware. If you have something else in mind, send me a note and we can check some measurements to see if my printed parts will work.
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Old 10-30-2018, 10:35 AM #51
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It's all good! ... If you have something else in mind, send me a note and we can check some measurements to see if my printed parts will work.
Thanks, McCand!

If/when I get a mobile unit with a removable face, I'll look you up re: getting files to custom print a mounting plate.

Your work is really inspired and you've done an awesome job!

-Phil
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Old 03-05-2021, 07:12 PM #52
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Unhappy The End

Well, last week last week Bilbo decided it was time to head to the Havens and sail off into the west.

I was rear-ended, and while the damage was limited to the rear right corner (and my bicycle and bike rack), the insurance adjuster decided that the wound "tis not so deep as a well, nor so wide as a church-door; but 'tis enough, 'twill serve".

I'm going to leave this post thread active and if others have questions about what I've done, please feel free to reach out. I'm still working on seeing what my next vehicle is going to be.
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Last edited by mccand; 03-08-2021 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 03-05-2021, 09:49 PM #53
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Sorry man...
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Old 03-08-2021, 01:23 PM #54
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Sorry man...
Thanks, That's the way it goes sometimes. But I just picked up a 2018 Tacoma, and am going to start it all over again!
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