The next step for me is integration of the factory beep beep. I know it drives alot of people nuts but without tapping into it to use it the illusion of remote start being factory will be broken...

From what I understand that buzzer isn't as simple as just sending a solid pulse to it. My reading and research indicating that you need to send a specific frequency to it in order to get the right tone beep. From what I have read it seems to be about 20khz, but I still need to do some more study work on it before I can be sure. It also looks like you can use a 555 timer to pull it off like this guy did here... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9l7WYE_tm_M

Has anyone put in an aftermarket alarm and keep the beep beep? If so how did you do it?

This is awesome!! The thing I would love to see is all in one and not needing an separate alarm or remote start box. I see this thread is a bit old has there been any updates? Great work on this!!

Progress yes, but I still haven't put it all together. Basically where I left off was I had created a test board that would listen to signals from the fob receiver unit in the back and then if the runner was off and it saw 2 lock pulses and a long hold on the lock it would signal the remote start to do it's thing. It would then listen for a unlock or lock signal while the car was under power from the remote start and lock or unlock the doors. Once the car was running with the key it would just go to sleep until the car turned off.

The project got behind because I started to write code that would also control the climate controls and I wanted a factory beep/light flash on lock and unlock. The whole goal of the project was to do it in such a way that if you didn't know it was custom you would think the car came with it.

Lights are easy the beep beep is a beach beach. It seems that it isn't just something where you can send two pulses of power to the buzzer. You have to send a special wave to buzzer so you can then match the actual tone of the buzzer. I have access to a very nice oscilloscope that will let me record the signal, but it's an hour away and right now I just don't have the time to go grab it. So that will most likely not get done till spring or summer.

As for the climate controls I put a temp sensor on my test board and then based on if the car was hot or cold it would put the climate controls into MAX heat or MAX cool. It would also turn on the heated seats, turn on the defrost etc. The hardest part about this is just going to be wiring it all up to climate control unit.

As far as all one unit... Unless someone wants to pay me couple of grand so I can put it all together it's most likely just a fantasy. The problem is even with my current work with you have at VERY minimum 3 parts you need. The key simulator, the remote start controller ( this part wouldn't be too bad ) and then my custom controller.

Building in the remote start module wouldn't be too bad. The key sim would suck and it would be a lot of R & D. Then you have the issue of market size. There are only a handful of people who want this or someone else would have already done it...

What will most likely happen with this is that I will build a prototype board. Make sure it all works and use it for a while. Once I am positive I have it how I want it I will then have a custom circuit board printed, put it all together, then have a custom enclosure for the board 3D printed and do a final install. At that point if people want them I will most likely sell a limited run of them and post the specs for people who want to build their own.

fyi 05/06 started hi speed canbus so this can work

anything prior probably wont work for what you are thinking.
seems like a lot of work for saving the factory remote when i can just install a aftermaket and have phone control, 3 mile range on the remote fobs that are waterproof and rechargable via usb. yes it can be wired to roll the rear window UP and DOWN.

nice to know you figured out how the RDA works. probably easier just to transmit the door lock commands when the remote starter is activated.

or install a new aftermarket unit and tag the physical lock and unlock wires in the driver kick panel. this is part of a aftermarket unit.

a 45 minute to 1 hour job seems like it would get drawn out to days of tinkering.

Hi mav2287, would you be willing to share (preferably in this thread, but if not via a PM) the code that you discovered for the lock and unlock pulses sent out on the RDA wire?

I found a thread here Keys Dont Open Door But Starts Car | Page 2 | Toyota Estima Owners Club that states that a toyota Estima mini-van (not sold in the US) has an unlock code that is " To .. unlock the receiver sends a square wave pulse train to the body ECU. The signal comprises 12mS high-6mS low-9mS high sequence repeated 14 times. High is 8V, low is 0v."

I'm assuming that our 4Runner may have the same code, but there is no guarantee.

I'll probably end up just buying a compustar solution from @gshadow325 , but right now I'm ultra-tight on cash... plus, I find this type of research and experimentation fun!

Yea I read that one too a long time ago.

When I read the signals I did it with an octocouple and a Arduino since I was going to be using that to read the signal and then issue commands to the rest of the system. That said it might give different more precise timing with a oscilloscope, but since I was going to reading it with an Arduino with an octocouple for electric isolation from the circuit I wanted to record it on that too. Below is the table of data.

I can confirm that regardless of key state these signals are always send the body ECU so my plan was to have an arduino read them and key state. Then take actions accordingly.

The way you read this is that low means no voltage, high means voltage and since the line sits at no voltage when no message is sent all of them start at 0. The zero can be interpreted as a clear line. The signals all send once if you click it SUPER fast and then repeat over and over indefinately if you hold down the button. The chart below shows a key at the top that identities the set that represents each button type and then has a reading from the RDA line I took below it. Here is the signal break down:

That's really awesome!!!! I love it! I'm considering using an arduino as well to detect the pulse.

My thinking (I think gshadow suggested this), is that the arduino board only needs to listen when the truck is running because of the remote start, so I would somehow make it so that board is only powered on when the 4Runner is runner because of a remote start condition.

Then, the Arduino can look for lock and unlock pulses, and trigger the door lock and unlock accordingly. I guess, as you have done, I could get fancy and add other features based on a button press, but I don't think that I'd want the arduino powered when the truck is off -- I don't want the parasitic drain (even though I haven't calculated what effect it might have in terms of how long it would take to run down the battery).

I'm sure you know that you can burn your arduino code to a single chip that costs only a few bucks, so once you have something working, you can deploy it fairly cheaply.

Thanks for share this info! I think I'll play with it when I have some free time!

-Phil

BTW, for the first line of the unlock code, I think you meant to write "3 12" instead of "0 12".

My next step is to look into opto-couplers... digikey, mouser & adafruit, here I come.

P.S. -- I'm not interested in selling anything. If I do create something useful, I'll happily share it with you, and if you like it you may use it any way you choose.

As far as selling goes there is no money to be made here and that is no my goal. The only reason I would sell anything is that typically when you have a prototype board made it costs you about the same to make 10 production style prototypes as it does 1 and I wouldn't want the other 9 so I am happy to share the info.

As for your comment on the 3 the answer is yes and no. If you are reading the first signal then you don't know when to start counting so it is impossible to tell how long the line stayed low since it was already low. If it is a repeat then yes you are correct. I am always catching them from start so since I am looking at it from start I can't catch the first low.

As for the key position there are a few things you can do. If you get a VERY efficient power converter for the Arduino you can run it all the time with very little to no risk of a flat battery. It will pull a fraction of 1 amp. My testing and planning was build around an Arduino micro and a then stepping down the voltage as efficiently as possible.

I can then watch the key position and take actions accordingly for example I can trigger the start OEM Toyota style by watching for a double lock and a hold. I can then tell it that when the car is running I want it to lock and unlock doors. I could even tell it that if I hold the lock button to stop the remote start. My personal plans also call for a small thermistor that will be connected to the arduino. Based on the ambient temperature it will either heat the car internally or cool it. Then within a nominal range it won't do anything.

At this point I just haven't really had the time to put it all together and finish writing the code in C++ ( what the Arduino uses ) to make it work. Once I do that and get it all working then I will most likely have a custom circuit board and case made for it.

Since I just had another kiddo a couple weeks ago this may not be done till next late summer early next winter.

Thanks for sharing this, and for clarifying. I just wanted to make sure that you realized that my intentions are simply to see what can be done -- I'm not trying to eclipse your work or steal your thunder.

As for the temp settings... at least on my limited, you can set an desired internal temp for the HVAC and leave it on "auto", and the truck will handle everything else. That's what I plan to do... although a thermistor could be useful to turn on the rear defroster if the temp is below a certain threshold... Just my thoughts.

Congratulations on the new little one!

-Phil

Maybe there's a way that you could also integrated a way to roll UP the rear window with the remote too? Like holding the lock button or maybe triple tapping the window button?

I'd be willing to invest. Feel free to contact me on Instagram @ExCabSwap or if you want, I'll send you my cell number. Hopefully I remember to check back in on this!

I think this is really awesome! I work for Fastenal, so if you want to make a little connector/fastener kit to go with this, I'd be happy to help out! We make custom kits for everything we sell!

Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk

Back from the dead again... Do you know which kits specifically support all of this?

Yeah nothing lol

Everything is analog. So much more gain from anything aftermarket

The point was always to have that factory feel. Just like the feeling you get when you pull up next to someone in something that looks bone stock and you blow their doors off when the light turns green.

Plus it cool when your buddy with a 4R say, "WTF?! they did that from the factory and I didn't get it!" and you just smile ear to ear.

Using the same input sense from the remote you could easily detect a triple click or something similar on the back door button and then trigger the auto up feature, but you may need to power the backdoor ECU to do it not sure. That said the reason they never did it was that it is a MASSIVE safety concern so use at your own risk.

If I remember right I was looking at the following setup
- Avital 4003
- PKALL or XK05 ( wasn't sure which would be better )
- My custom board ( driven by ardunio Micro 5V Arduino Micro) - ( This would connect to HVAC and have an onboard temp sensor to activate Full Cold AC or Full Heat, Heated seats, front/rear defrost and heater )

However, at one point I was thinking I may just ditch the 4003 and have my board do everything and just have the PKALL or XK05 for the key validation.

I did put together some C++ Arduino code for the board and did a lot of testing I just never had the time to put it all together into something usable. If anyone wants to pickup the torch PM me and I am happy to send over the code as long as if they get it figured out they share how to make one with me too.

Your post reiterates, so much more gain from aftermarket remotes. What ever floats your boat man. Knock yourself or. I already know you're going to run into other issues already. It's destined to fail before it even starts. Use my negativity as fuel for your fire. I'll just install an aftermarket unit without a shit ton more features range and flexibility in 45 minutes while your project takes months to complete and work out the bugs. Just to impress that one person that may think it is cool that you may never meet except on here in the deep dark web.

You don't ever do anything for your own satisfaction do you?

You don't and most likely won't get it and that is, OK. You do you.