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Old 09-13-2017, 01:13 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BADCUDA1 View Post
Did you have the Walker Stainless Steel system?
Are you asking me? If so: no, I believe my catback is stock (but I can't really be sure. Just bought the car a week ago from an indifferent Ford dealership, who didn't care about its history).

Yeah, I saw that quote elsewhere, and it worries me. That's why I'm going to cover it in rustoleum before installation. Three coats ;)

Last edited by bht2109; 09-13-2017 at 01:15 PM. Reason: addition
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Old 09-13-2017, 03:33 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bht2109 View Post
Are you asking me? If so: no, I believe my catback is stock (but I can't really be sure. Just bought the car a week ago from an indifferent Ford dealership, who didn't care about its history).

Yeah, I saw that quote elsewhere, and it worries me. That's why I'm going to cover it in rustoleum before installation. Three coats ;)

my question was more aimed at derekdevasia as quoted comments about the walker system.

The walker system cat back to tail pipe is stainless but the tail pipe is steel. about $225.00 the Gibson kit can be had for 375 delivered well worth the extra cost.

the only complete system in stainless steel for a 4Runner is one from Gibson.

your wasting time and money painting an exhaust system.

If you don't want to do it again for a while go stainless it's the only option. The OEM system is Stainless they last a while but not forever.

Last edited by BADCUDA1; 09-13-2017 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 10-05-2017, 09:40 AM #18
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Nope. Just the basic one.
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2004 toyota 4runner v8 4x4.
Bilstein 5100, Toytec Superflex, toytec/elibach front lift coils, 1 inch toytec body lift. 17x9 Method The Standard wheels, 285/70/17 Cooper AT3's, LC80 Snorkel
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Old 10-05-2017, 09:52 PM #19
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Anyway, just put 4 new tires on her and she drives like a dream. I can't believe how sturdy this beast is at 200K, ... I can't believe that I just bought a vehicle that basically only needs a tune-up and a mild suspension refresh at 200K!!!
With you there, 3 weeks ago $2k for 2005 SR5 4.0 4x4 294k, after a little service work it runs like mint! From New Mexico, so there's no rust problem. Next best thing to winning big money in a lottery! Made in Japan quality! This one was serviced regularly at a dealer too, new radiator and thermostat, brakes, rear window, spark plugs and tires are nearly new.

Dealer up here (Mn) wholesaled it and I must have been the first and the rest were too late. And the 'little old lady' story was true, my buddy was there and seen it come in, visiting her relatives, they talked her into trading it in on a new Subaru.

Funny thing is I wasn't going to go look at it, Saturday morning I walked out of a garage sale to see a 4Runner, thought wouldn't that be cool, and figured why not just go look(because you look, you end up buying...).

Earlier I had the VIN from their ad plugged it into mycarfax.com and vehiclehistory.com, seen it was serviced regularly and from NM but I wasn't going to go look at it because of the mileage. You can also go to toyota.com and get an account and plug in your VIN too. Glad I changed my mind. I'm happy for you too because I know that feeling, I would have never afforded this luxury unless it all fell into place like it did.

Kinda rambled on here, but back to the mufflers, ahh, hope my stainless last, right now I think I'm about $200 into the rest, trans filter and coolant temp sensor was $80 of that, I'm not really into this much, but (he's still rambling) I would value mine at $9500, cause I wouldn't take any less.
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Old 10-06-2017, 01:38 PM #20
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I want to raise a stock 03 4runner on a lift (from the frame, not the rear axle). Lifting from the frame rails means the rear axle will sag under it's own weight. Will it sag enough to damage lines connected to it? or do I need to chain it to the frame first.
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Old 10-06-2017, 11:56 PM #21
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To clearify, I want to raise the 4runner up in the air with a hydraulic lift so I can work standing up under it. And I'm wondering if the unsupported rear axle will sag enough to damage something. I figured someone who'd just done an exhaust system would know.
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Old 02-20-2019, 09:31 PM #22
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Do I need a special bolt to connect these two pieces? It’s between the resonator and muffler.

If I don’t, what size bolt did you use?




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Old 02-21-2019, 11:50 AM #23
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ive been able to weld it back a couple times. lasted about a year each time. this time i just took the tailpipe out and stuck a turn down in the back of the muffler. if i want to keep the stock system i could prolly cut the turn down into a union that fits inside in between the muffler and tailpipe.

if a muffler rusts out in 2 years it was aluminized not SS. walker only makes a SS now, maybe they made a cheaper version before.

since i have at least one cracked manifold i will be doing DT headers in the summer. while im at it i will replace everything from y-pipe to prolly gibson ss cat back with side exit

DT is making new long tube headers and a y-pipe as we speak but wont include cats. i prefer to have clean exhaust and will fab cats onto the shortys with vband clamps so if i have an issue down the road with cats i dont have to unbolt headers
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Old 02-21-2019, 09:35 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sumday View Post
ive been able to weld it back a couple times. lasted about a year each time. this time i just took the tailpipe out and stuck a turn down in the back of the muffler. if i want to keep the stock system i could prolly cut the turn down into a union that fits inside in between the muffler and tailpipe.



if a muffler rusts out in 2 years it was aluminized not SS. walker only makes a SS now, maybe they made a cheaper version before.



since i have at least one cracked manifold i will be doing DT headers in the summer. while im at it i will replace everything from y-pipe to prolly gibson ss cat back with side exit



DT is making new long tube headers and a y-pipe as we speak but wont include cats. i prefer to have clean exhaust and will fab cats onto the shortys with vband clamps so if i have an issue down the road with cats i dont have to unbolt headers


Exhaust is brand new and all from Walker. Muffler is their SS series. Did some more research. I believe I only need mild grade steel bolts.




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Old 05-24-2019, 09:25 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berty_K View Post
Do I need a special bolt to connect these two pieces? It’s between the resonator and muffler.

If I don’t, what size bolt did you use?




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Did you ever figure out the bolts to use for the connection between the resonator/tail pipe and muffler
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Old 05-24-2019, 09:44 PM #26
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Did you ever figure out the bolts to use for the connection between the resonator/tail pipe and muffler


It's just a standard mild steel bolt. M10 or 12- can't remember off the top of my head


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Old 05-26-2019, 04:15 PM #27
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Did you ever figure out the bolts to use for the connection between the resonator/tail pipe and muffler


Just checked. I used a 50mm long M12 bolt.


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Old 09-03-2020, 11:00 PM #28
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What size bolts did you use to connect the tailpipe to the muffler section?
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Old 09-03-2020, 11:00 PM #29
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Sorry just saw the answer
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Old 02-13-2021, 04:13 PM #30
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Finding this thread very useful. Thanks.

Mine rusted out previously where the pipe connected to the muffler (rear side) and had it welded back on. The weld held strong but now the pipe itself is rusted through. Didn’t notice until I heard the rattle at certain RPMs again.

Anyone experience this? Do I need to replace the rest of the tail pipe as well? Or can I just replace the muffler?
I assume I need new bolts since they are thoroughly rusted. Can I reuse the rubber connectors?


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