Great great write up. Really appreciate you taking the time to do this. I've read good things about the JBA's, I'll be going with them also.

This should be sticky or linked into a sticky for sure.

Excellent, clear write up for a DIY how to.

I have the JBA high caster std arms for a little over a year.. they aligned great, they hold up great, they flex as good as I need on extended travel coil overs and parts replacements look easy. Eyeing the new JBA balljoint.
I also Painted them silver because Red isnt for everyone and thats the only way they come.

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Awesome write up. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Will be knocking this out when i do my lift.

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Only true for stock type rubber bushings, not true for poly.

I just did mine. I did not remove the battery or anything around it. I had to remove the bolts holding the brake hardline brackets to the frame so that I can push them aside to make enough space to put a socket on the UCA nut. Same applied to one small bolt holding the AC lines on the pass side, blocking the long bolt.

My Camburg UCAs use poly bushings so it didn't matter how I torque them down. I could fairly easily move the UCA by hand after torquing the nut to spec. Looking at OP's photos it appears his UCA has rubber bushings like stock so I guess those need to be tightened in the proper position.

I must say it took me a lot longer than I thought but not because I had any trouble - I was just really taking my time. If I was doing it on a weekend it would have been even pleasant but in this case it was evening after work so there was a bit of time pressure at the end, I do need my regular full 8 hours of sleep.

Thank you very much for this write-up. It's been years since I did my lift & I've forgotten a lot of it; your write-up will be very helpful.

I'm confused about one part:
"Also, make sure the Lower Control Arm is supported by a jack. The weight of the vehicle needs to be on the UCA for the bushings to seat properly. If you tighten the UCA through bolt without weight on the suspension, the bushings will be destroyed quickly. You can torque the through bolt with the wheel on the ground, and the weight on the tire."

Does this mean that you only partially tighten the through bolt until you've got the wheel(s) back on & jack stands removed? I didn't see that as part of the last step.

If you support the LCA's with a jack are you raising them up or just keeping them at the level they were before the old UCA's were removed?

Thanks again for taking the extra time to post the pics & write-up.

You’re so welcome! I get such a kick out of helping you guys. I have had so many write ups help me, I just wanted to give back to our special forum. We are lucky.

Yes, you just don’t want to do what some did, torquing everything at full droop, unsupported.

It’s been a while, but a couple of the instructions and write ups I went through emphasized this. Without support or weight, the bushings must get pinched and shredded when weight is put on the suspension.

Some say it’s no big deal but I didn’t want to chance it (there were pics of the shredded bushings somewhere).

I have the same JBA UCAs and they work great! Used this write up to help my install so thanks big time!

Only issue I had was that after my alignment the driver side UCA creaks pretty bad... Anyone else have this issue? Saw in another thread to uninstall and reinstall UCA but was curious if I've missed lubing something correctly. Ugh idk.

Is anyone running TRD pro wheels and 285/70r17 tires with these UCA’s? Just want to be sure I’d have enough clearance.

Great write up. I just finished installing mine. The JBA instructions differ slightly from yours in step 16. When the pin goes through there should be a thick outer washer, then the UCA, thin inner washer, then tube, thin inner washer, UCA, thick out washer. It seemed impossible to get it all together with one person (I borrowed my neighbor for that part). It takes someone pushing on the bolt while the other wiggles all the pieces into alignment.

Other than though, not a bad job.

Interesting does it look like they updated/changed it?

Man, I had never seen that Total Chaos video. Super good. And now I know that I should only be willing to pay for 14 minutes of labor for each side of a lift install!

Here's a pic. The instructions are not clear which washer goes in which place, but it's really tight, so this is the way I put it together. It took two people to get the UCA in place, one holding one of it, the other putting the inner washer at about 45 degree angle and using it to ramp the other end in place so that both inner washers are there.

Prior to getting help, I was considering using a bottle jack to stretch the UCA slightly...probably not a good idea.

Your caster still on negative after the alignment, why is that? Its supposed to fixed it right?


One last thing, here is my alignment printout:

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spectacular writeup. changing it up from camburg to JBA.

question: i'm doing a full suspension replace at 165k, still undecided between 5100's and 6112's. i'm looking for ride quality mostly dont care much about lift, but anticipate getting probably 2" anyway between new struts and springs. you guys recommend going with stock or the STD high caster? any reason not to get STD high caster? am i forced into at least 2" of lift in that case?