14. Have a celebratory beer. You are halfway there! (hopefully something really tasty!)
15. Place new UCA in place, and thread in through bolt.
16. Replace through bolt washer and nut.
******VERY IMPORTANT******
The orientation should be: Long Bolt, Large Washer, A-Arm Bushing, UCA Tube mounted to chassis, other side, A-Arm Bushing, Large Washer, Nut
Also, make sure the Lower Control Arm is supported by a jack. The weight of the vehicle needs to be on the UCA for the bushings to seat properly. If you tighten the UCA through bolt without weight on the suspension, the bushings will be destroyed quickly.
You can torque the through bolt with the wheel on the ground, and the weight on the tire.
Torque nut with torque wrench to 85 ft-lbs
17. Place ABS wire bracket back on new UCA. I had to bend the shape of the ABS wire bracket on both sides to get it to fit just right on the new UCA, and then had to cut and reposition the rubber sheath around the wire (CAREFUL!!!), then bend the tabs on the bracket and gently crimp them around the ABS wire. If you cut or crush this wire, you'll be pretty bummed out. You have to place the wire in a spot where the articulation of the UCA won't pull or crush the ABS wire. There is room, but just barely.
18. Place the supplied washer ABOVE THE KNUCKLE AND BELOW THE BALL JOINT and place the ball joint stud into knuckle. (Some have questioned why the washer is there. It seems to be to keep the grease inside the boot. So yes, the washer goes ABOVE the boot!!)
19. Place the nylon lock nut onto the ball joint stud finger tight. The nut size may be 21mm. I didn't have a wrench that big, so I very carefully tightened the nut with a crescent wrench. Use a 10mm wrench to hold the ball joint stud from rotating. Torque to 45 ft-lbs.
20. Admire your work! Almost done!
21. Replace fender aprons and clips, tire and lug nuts, carefully remove jackstands and wheel chocks, repeat for the other side, get an alignment, and go rip it up!
And time for a celebratory beer (or a bunch!!).
One last thing, here is my alignment printout:
Awesome write up! I will be installing my SPC UCA and King extended travel next weekend. Thanks for the details as this will be my first time doing an UCA replacement.
spectacular writeup. changing it up from camburg to JBA.
question: i'm doing a full suspension replace at 165k, still undecided between 5100's and 6112's. i'm looking for ride quality mostly dont care much about lift, but anticipate getting probably 2" anyway between new struts and springs. you guys recommend going with stock or the STD high caster? any reason not to get STD high caster? am i forced into at least 2" of lift in that case?
Why are you switching from camburgs? What are you doing with your camburgs?
I'm doing these on a 2016 4Runner. Mine came with four washers two thick and two thin and in the write up it says I should have a washer on the outside of the bushing and on the inside of the bushing but there is not enough space to get the control arm in place, has anyone had this issue or do I not need the interior washers... Please help running out of beers and patiences
I'm doing these on a 2016 4Runner. Mine came with four washers two thick and two thin and in the write up it says I should have a washer on the outside of the bushing and on the inside of the bushing but there is not enough space to get the control arm in place, has anyone had this issue or do I not need the interior washers... Please help running out of beers and patiences
What UCA Are you installing? I installed Icons on my buddies Tacoma and had to use a pry bar to gently get the arms in place with the washers on the inside. It was a little tricky but it didn’t take much time to get them in. There was two of us though, my buddy pried while I aligned the through bolt.
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2013 SR5
Bilstein 5100’s
Dobinson 300 up front
Dobinson 599 in rear
TRD Pro wheels 275/70 Falken wildpeak AT3 W
I'm doing these on a 2016 4Runner. Mine came with four washers two thick and two thin and in the write up it says I should have a washer on the outside of the bushing and on the inside of the bushing but there is not enough space to get the control arm in place, has anyone had this issue or do I not need the interior washers... Please help running out of beers and patiences
Big washers go on the outside, by the nut and the bolt, the little washers go on the inside, by the tower/strut area. This video (it starts on the important part with the washers) shows big washers, but the theory is the same.
Big - Little - Little - Big
I just spoke to Al on the phone, and he said definitely use all 4 washers. And he mentioned that a helper would be helpful at this step.
Call 855 533 7437, press 1, and he will probably pick up during business hours (east coast).
PM me if you need more of an explanation. Good Luck!!
__________________ 2022 LUNAR ROCK TRAIL SPECIAL EDITION 2010 MAGNETIC GREY SR5 PREMIUM 2004 V6 WHITE 4RUNNER SPORT 1995 V6 3.0 BLACK 4RUNNER 4X4 (Retired) 4th & 5th Gen UCA Install Thread
I just installed the JBA control arms on my 2008 over the weekend. I found the washers to not be too bad, but a little bit of a wrestle. The technique I ended up using, was a pry bar once it got to the rearward bushing to slide the washer in. The bushings flex enough with the right leverage, and then you can slide that around. There seemed to be just enough width to get the front washers both in place, without any leverage. All in all took a little while but not too bad, and I was doing it by myself.
Very impressed with the instructions, and the fit/finish, looking forward to seeing how it drives on and off road soon! Only got a chance to test drive around the block this afternoon, but so far so good.
I found the washers to not be too bad, but a little bit of a wrestle. The technique I ended up using, was a pry bar once it got to the rearward bushing to slide the washer in. The bushings flex enough with the right leverage, and then you can slide that around.
Thank you for this post. I spent over an hour wrestling with those washer and finally came inside and found this post.
Drivers side took 3 hours, passenger side <90 minutes including clean up!
Old thread but good info. About the torque spec for the upper ball joint , factory spec is 82 ft/lb but the info in the thread says 45 ft/lb. Is that just a JBA thing?
Old thread but good info. About the torque spec for the upper ball joint , factory spec is 82 ft/lb but the info in the thread says 45 ft/lb. Is that just a JBA thing?
I noticed the same discrepancy. 82 vs 45 ft-lbs is a big difference and seems to me this joint is still the same tapered fit as OEM so why would the torque be different?
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2016 Trail Edition Premium, Silver with KDSS, 2.5 King lift, T13 rear springs, FN Six Shooter with ST Maxx, BB Skids
I called my local 4x4 shop (Toyota-specific) and they swear by SPC. That said, I'm curious what the best bang-for-the-buck UCA is these days as well.
I ended up going with JBA. My local shop likes to use Icon. @ $800 that was a bit hard to swallow. I decided to just do whole the install myself. Picked up a decent spring compressor for less than the install price so hopefully it will give me motivation to do more of my vehicles. I am done with renting the suicide sticks.
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Just the Toyotas
'86 FJ60
'07 4R V8
Linear Mode
