Rookie question but just wanted to double check - it is possible to transfer DAC switch/wiring to driver's side with the rest of switches correct? Looking into adding LED lights that would include three different mods - was hoping to see if I could have all of them installed on the center console area. Below would be my ideal setup with the switches for center console area while DAC is next to other factory switches on the left side of the steering wheel

-Stealth grille light bar
-Hood scoop light bar
-Rear Anti Tailgater light bars


Since I'm not at all savvy when it comes to wiring, soldering, etc - I was planning to have a shop do the install and wanted to check in with you guys before I contacted them to set up an appointment

Do not pay someone to do this. It is so simple. Someone will chime in and give links. If you don't search for links I'm not. Google "4th gen 4runner DAC switch" or "move switch" something along those lines.

How simple is it? Based on the results, it seems like splicing / soldering / extending wire harness may be needed to complete this mod. That is precisely the reason why I stated "not savvy with wiring/soldering" in my OP so I'd prefer to have a shop do it for me instead. The shop would need to install led light bars anyway so they'd already be doing wiring and can quickly do relocation of DAC switch while they're in there. I know the owner personally so he would not tack up additional charges for doing DAC button switch. Looks like a doable mod though which is good for me - I personally think Toyota could have done better with the location of this button

Its probably faster and cheaper to have a reputable car alarm shop do this for you. They work with automotive wiring all day long and shouldn't cost you more than $80 total.

It takes 30 seconds to become a soldering expert.

I can guarantee that is not correct in any way shape or form. Thats like saying its takes 30 seconds to become a welding expert. I don't know if you have ever taken a soldering certification test to become an aerospace equipment assembler, but I can tell you that most people completely fail at soldering things correctly even thought they think that they are doing it right and believe that they are "experts" even though they are failing. Knowing how long to heat something, the color of the joints which indicate how much it has been heated (or overheated), ESD concerns, pre-flux and integrated flux soldering and when to use which type, soldering tip control and iron selection are all things which true experts have to deal with. I don't suppose that you have ever damaged an $80 IC on a satellite communications board by overheating with an iron at the wrong temp? Perhaps you have made a non-visible cold solder joint by using rosin core instead of silver solder?

FYSA, the 4th Gen Limited 4Rs have two extra switch slots on the center console, where they have switches for OEM seat heaters.

You can order that panel alone (through any Toyota parts site) and it will instantly give you two extra switch slots. I think I ordered it for around $30-40. Not bad, and you can leave the DAC switch where it is. Looks factory (obviously).

I wrote up on this under the "What did you do with your 4R today?" post somewhere, but can find it to link you. Should be pretty straightforward.

I suppose expert isn't the right word. I meant to say it takes 30 seconds to become completely adequate in soldering for non-aerospace applications. You sound like an expert, I'd love to inspect the solder joints on your truck!

I just went through your old posts and came across the one you were talking about. Do you mind taking few moments and check out the link below? Looks like the price went up quite a bit if it is confirmed


https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-p...YT10b3lvdGE%3D

You were looking at the wrong piece. This link has the one you're looking for:

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-p...bC12Ni1nYXM%3D

Note: this will just be the panel, with no clips, sockets, etc on it. But, you'll be able to switch over your existing clips and socket to it. BLUF: this is the only piece you need.

Awesome - thanks for chiming in real quick. I might end up doing this instead. Not too bad of a price at all

FWIW -- generally you do not solder where the connections are susceptible to high g-loads or vibrations which could lead to lateral stress cracks and eventually breaking the wire off the joint. In that case you would crimp the cables to allow the wire strands to flex individually. Notice that all factory connections which can be moved around on an automotive wire harness are crimped. In that case, you are more than welcome to inspect all of my crimps

What you meant to say is, in my words: "I can take 30 seconds to teach my 13 year old how to solder two 16 wires together! After teaching that, just 4 wires and put a 2 ft extension in each wire" done!

Now teaching to solder the gauge cluster that I have done several times is completely different. Aerospaceish I would say!

Does the 30 seconds include the wait time for the solder gun to heat up and the time to watch the tutorial videos?

Must be a genius to do it so quickly.

You must have never soldered before then.

I'm done trying to help everyone out.