Help!!! So I went to use my rear hatch yesterday. It opened and closed normal got home from the store and would not open. Also the rear window wiper and defroster will not work and the window will not open either. I checked the fuse it is good. Then I pulled the rear panel and got lost in the maze of wires. Has anyone gone through this before? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Hmmm.....sounds like everything going to the hatch is dead. Maybe the ECU in the rear hatch has died. This thread might help. I'm kicking around pulling mine apart just to clean/lubricate it and hopefully prevent this in the future.

Looks like the interior panel has to come off which won't be fun without the hatch open but is doable.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2702585-post82.html

Disconnect your battery for a minute and see if that helps.

A dying battery or low voltage situation will cause this problem.

I've unplugged the connector inside the tailgate before, while working on something esle. And the tailgate lock wouldn't open unless the battery was disconnected then re-connected.
Curious what fuse did you pull because I don't think here's one for the tailgate lock. There's a universal fuse "dr/lock" but if that's blown none of the locks will work.

Is there a way to verify if the ECU is bad? I would like to make sure that is the issue before I spend $200 on it.

I pulled the battery for about 30 minutes still no luck. I pulled the fuse under the hood labeled ECU-B.

Matt have you tried both the key and the rear window switch to lower the window?

You may want to buy this one before someone else gets it and save some bucks!

Post #1824 by "Footer"

4th Gen specific for sale thread

Here's the link to his eBay auction.

Toyota 4Runner Rear Hatch ECU module | eBay

Some threads describing various problems with the rear hatch:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...wont-open.html

Help!!! Rear hatch won't open.

Tailgate Motor Problem

Could also check on these steps:

If you push in the window lock switch on the driver’s door, the back window cannot be operated.

If the back window is not fully closed, the back window wiper, washer and defogger will not work.

Well I decided to just go for it, I cannot figure out what else would be wrong.Thanks for finding me one!

Yep that was what I tried first. Lock switch is off, pulled the rear panel window appears to be all the way up.

My issue seems to be slightly different though. I have reset the ECU, pulled the power from the while tuck and let it set but no change. When I press the switch on the back of the hatch, you can hear the switch click but that's it. No switching sound from the ECU, no motor, nothing. I can release the hatch manfully. When I close the hatch, it will close on it's own, the motor kicks on and pulls the hatch closed. If I press the switch on the hatch right after it closes (before the hatch goes into "locked" position) the the motor will kick back on and release the hatch. So mechanically everything appears to be working. If I close the hatch and wait a few seconds, the hatch locks and it will not open again. It almost seems like the hatch can't tell the truck is unlocked. Does anyone know if there is a lock sensor on the hatch or is that controlled by the ECU?

Here is a link to a short video of the issue:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9F...ew?usp=sharing

Should merge these...

Help!!! Rear hatch won't open.

So I caved in and took it to the garage to see what they could come up with. They said its "firing a code that the rear window is down and that is why there is no function in the rear hatch." They said I need a new window motor, (part number 85720-35150) it cost $434.66! Needless to say thats not happening Conicelli Toyota Parts has it $140 cheaper and thats the first place I looked.

So here are my questions.
1.) The window is up the full way, why would the computer not recognize that?

2.) Even if the computer thinks the window is down, why would the rear hatch not open? The motor makes no sound and will not budge.

3.) Anybody run into any of these issues before?

Everything described on that forum most of the time helps.
In my case it stopped working suddenly, I thought its going to be lock, so removed measured motor - was ok, I`ve even connected it to 12VDC and it was moving, there are two microswitches, one rotary microswitch hidden behind white round cover close to main mechanizm, and simple metal/plastic momentary switch , checked by multimeter, mounted back in rear door, reset to default everything , (dont forget to use key to open rear door - it initialize rear lock ) and it worked only once ! it works properly only when I tried to open door manually from inside and then it closes ok. But when I reset everyting to default, used outside handle, will work only once.
Here is a reason , I`ve spend few hours and noticed finally that in that door lock (inside), there is that bigger handle (small one is to manually open the door) which is just moving when you open/close door, That "handle" was a bit loose, after 11 years it can be loose ! but its connected mechanically with that little Microswitch - which has a little piece of metal that touches that big swinging piece metal which is closing/opening door . I figured out that if you bend that piece of metal (that touches to that microswitch), it works ok! As long as I holded that bigger "handle" bended, it just simply worked ! It better react with that mechanizm and its not sending some - lets say - hazardous or faulty data to ECU - which probably hangs ECU, when its get faulty data. So the Fix was to bend that small microswitch bar to better touch that big swinging bar - that fixed problem - probably temporary - its weak spot of that lock, probably I`ll replace it (even if it looks like inconvertible) , will not be easy but cheap ! definitely something that you can DIY and not spend 200$ ! I hope thats helpfull for those who can not figure out whats going on and are more and more frustrating !!!
Its not easy to find out because multimeter will not show you that ...

Best regards !

My issue is my latch handle stays compressed and will not open. I've tried spraying a generous amount of WD-40 on the latch handle hoping it would loosen up rust/dirt built up but no such luck.

I should also back up and mention i have issues with my power locks where the power locks do not work when using the inside button (no sounds at all when using the power lock button) and when using my key to lock/unlock all locks from the outside, it will only unlock the one door.

Any ideas where I go from here and/or how to get the tailgate open?

Sounds like the hatch switch is bad and needs to be replaced, on the other doors sounds like the locking actuators have gone bad and needs to be replaced as well, but it could also be a fuse for the door locks as well so check that first.

Does the remote key fob unlock any of the doors?