I apologize if this sounds stupid, but how do you test to "chassis ground" ? I have a lead in DL1 (pin 13) and the other one at any metal piece in the car (door hinge in this case) and I don't hear anything from the multimeter. Same for any other pin in the connector. Am I doing this wrong?
Quote:
Originally Posted by feralcomprehension
OK, to summarize where we are now: I used this method to successfully return function to my transfer case actuator without having to take it apart, or really even go under the truck.
Collection of disclaimers: This worked for me. I was careful, I'm not inexperienced in this sort of thing, and I was absolutely aware that it could go completely south if I wasn't paying close attention. If you try it, it's at your risk exclusively. I'll not be held responsible if you jack your rig up. Shouldn't, but it could happen.
See the above images. I started by locating the 4WD computer, which on my '07 V6, is mounted to the panel below the glove box, then determined which plug was the relevant one by carefully examining the wire colors.
Note well that it is best to not turn your truck on with the 4WD computer disconnected; says so right on the module.
My starting symptoms were such that I believed the ADD was in the wrong spot. The dash light indicated 4WD, but I wasn't convinced that 4WD was actually engaged. The first step was applying power to terminals 3 (red) and 6 (black with white stripe), then reversing polarity and applying power again. These wires power the actuator, so success is hearing the actuator in the front diff moving on at least one of these cycles, then continuing to cycle as you reverse polarity and reapply power.
The next step is to verify that it's in the right spot. In my case, I was shooting for 2HI because that's the most useful mode and if I was going to freeze my truck I wanted it there. As a result, I needed to make sure that the ADD limit switches indicated that the ADD actuator were in the position that corresponding to that state. Looking at BlackWorks PDF, (page 2, bottom right), the appropriate switch states are Closed on DL1 and Open on DL2. The way to check this is to verify continuity to chassis ground on DL1 (terminal 13 at the connector, light green) and no continuity to chassis ground on DL2 (terminal 12 at the connector, pink w/ blue stripe). I found that it was possible to get the limit switches into theoretically impossible states, so it may take some care to get it where you need it. The limits of travel are likely NOT the desired state; you're looking for somewhere in the middle, and I found that when trying to get the actuator correctly positioned reducing the drive voltage was helpful because it slows down the actuator motion. Once I had the ADD where I felt it ought to be (confirmed by the limit switch state from the training document) I hooked up the computer, made sure my 4wd switch was set to 2HI, and turned the truck on without starting it. This was successful and the 4WD lamp was no longer lit. 4Lo was still flashing....
|