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Old 07-30-2021, 11:25 AM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alvarog View Post
any idea where I can find the wiring diagram? the houseofun.ms11.net link is broken. Thanks in advance!
Wayback Machine

I used archive.org to find a scrape of the image, here you go. For posterity, I've also saved a local copy and uploaded it to imgbb to embed into this post below. This is a 100/10 thread.

ADD-wiring
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Old 08-10-2021, 11:21 PM #17
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I apologize if this sounds stupid, but how do you test to "chassis ground" ? I have a lead in DL1 (pin 13) and the other one at any metal piece in the car (door hinge in this case) and I don't hear anything from the multimeter. Same for any other pin in the connector. Am I doing this wrong?

Quote:
Originally Posted by feralcomprehension View Post
OK, to summarize where we are now: I used this method to successfully return function to my transfer case actuator without having to take it apart, or really even go under the truck.

Collection of disclaimers: This worked for me. I was careful, I'm not inexperienced in this sort of thing, and I was absolutely aware that it could go completely south if I wasn't paying close attention. If you try it, it's at your risk exclusively. I'll not be held responsible if you jack your rig up. Shouldn't, but it could happen.

See the above images. I started by locating the 4WD computer, which on my '07 V6, is mounted to the panel below the glove box, then determined which plug was the relevant one by carefully examining the wire colors.

Note well that it is best to not turn your truck on with the 4WD computer disconnected; says so right on the module.

My starting symptoms were such that I believed the ADD was in the wrong spot. The dash light indicated 4WD, but I wasn't convinced that 4WD was actually engaged. The first step was applying power to terminals 3 (red) and 6 (black with white stripe), then reversing polarity and applying power again. These wires power the actuator, so success is hearing the actuator in the front diff moving on at least one of these cycles, then continuing to cycle as you reverse polarity and reapply power.

The next step is to verify that it's in the right spot. In my case, I was shooting for 2HI because that's the most useful mode and if I was going to freeze my truck I wanted it there. As a result, I needed to make sure that the ADD limit switches indicated that the ADD actuator were in the position that corresponding to that state. Looking at BlackWorks PDF, (page 2, bottom right), the appropriate switch states are Closed on DL1 and Open on DL2. The way to check this is to verify continuity to chassis ground on DL1 (terminal 13 at the connector, light green) and no continuity to chassis ground on DL2 (terminal 12 at the connector, pink w/ blue stripe). I found that it was possible to get the limit switches into theoretically impossible states, so it may take some care to get it where you need it. The limits of travel are likely NOT the desired state; you're looking for somewhere in the middle, and I found that when trying to get the actuator correctly positioned reducing the drive voltage was helpful because it slows down the actuator motion. Once I had the ADD where I felt it ought to be (confirmed by the limit switch state from the training document) I hooked up the computer, made sure my 4wd switch was set to 2HI, and turned the truck on without starting it. This was successful and the 4WD lamp was no longer lit. 4Lo was still flashing....
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Old 11-22-2023, 07:36 AM #18
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Thanks! This thread helped me fix my 4Runner. Using a multimeter, the 4wd switch was verified to be working correctly , but no power was measured to the actuator motor upon moving the switch. The actuator motor was disconnected at the 4wd computer by removing all connectors and the actuator motor was powered with a current limiting power supply for a few seconds. Then the polarity was switched to spin the motor in the opposite direction. The voltage was varied up to 20 volts and the motor was heard moving after some time. After I disconnected the power supply and reconnected the connectors back on the 4wd computer. The blinking dash lights for the 4wd no longer stay on and the 4runner is no longer stuck in 4wd.

**** I suggest reading the first post of this thread before attempting this fix and have some level of knowledge and experience with electrical diagnosis ****
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Old 12-02-2023, 06:24 PM #19
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Very informative! Have to try this on my sticking 4Lo actuator now
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Old 12-28-2023, 03:32 PM #20
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Just used this method

Hey All,

Made an account just to post this.

I wanted to share that I used this method, and after reading about the time it took to reposition the motor, I decided to just try plugging F9/F10 connectors back in without properly repositioning the motor. Had some blind trust in the Toyota engineers.

The 4wd computer made some noises when I started the car, and I could hear the motor move, and then it was done. The car repositioned everything automatically within seconds. I guess that the system has a process where part of the startup, the system just checks the position sensors and aligns the motor if it's out of position.

Also, it ended up taking 20v at 5 amps to move my motor. I would try it, then reverse polarity, then try it again and repeat. Did this ~3 times, and it started moving.

For anyone wondering, I used a Milwaukee M18 battery I had on hand, got an adapter on amazon (~$15) that just connects to the + and - with a 30 amp fuse; then bought a buck/boost variable voltage converter (~$30) and wired it up. Worked great for less than $50. The whole process took less than an hour (only about 30 minutes with the car, and most of that was just futzing with not needed wires. Could do this again in less than 5 minutes.

I only hooked up to the 2-4 motor, and then 4hi and 4lo worked. Seems that motor is the first in the logic train, so if it doesn't work, the system doesn't do anything else.
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Old 12-28-2023, 03:44 PM #21
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Has anyone used this method on a V8?
If so, which wires did you use?

Mine doesn't want to go into 4Lo and I'd like to try this (I have a variable power supply) but not sure which wires I'd use for it.
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