I posted this yesterday in the maintenance section, but being this section would be more specific for the 4.0 V6, it could help here.

I wish to tell you several things to encourage you;

1. you can gravity fill with 3/8 tube and a funnel, seen many examples of folks using a pump, you don't have to pump it; 3/8 clear tubing is a good maintenance tool for this truck, buy at least 10 ft in the plumbing department ASAP. The 3/8 inner diameter tubing can be used on oil filter drain and for my method of the Power Steering Fluid Flush too.

2. looking up a transmission service my local dealer, just a 'flush' I don't see the filter being changed, even my schedule book just says 120,000 miles or 144 months -replace automatic transmission fluid -nothing about a filter, and my schedule book been stamped by a dealer but I just bet at the 169,902 they wrote in for mileage the filter was never changed.

3. the pan is so easy to get off -no exhaust in the way like the 4.7 V8.

4. I will thru a simplified semi-flush drain and fill and when finished will have replaced the better part of 7 1/2 quarts (plus the filter), good enough because I didn't want to remove any lines.

So here is my experience that may help simplify the matter, please read thru at least the first two post. I don't have a cell phone but you can go see many examples on you-tube, including Eric the car guy working on a V8.

Here's how I did mine with removing the pan and a semi-flush-fill which was basically a drain and fill; after reinstalling the pan and filling with fluid and running the engine for 2 minutes while I shifted gears. I going to copy/paste from previous posting.

No pump necessary, you can gravity fill from the side or under the hood, your just going to clip the fill hose in a couple of places and make sure it stays in place before you start pouring fluid.

Drain Plug--Also recommend drain plug torque at about 11 or 12 ft lbs, but really get a inch pound torque wrench and 130 inch lbs. I did 140 inch pounds and that seemed like I was pushing it. If one must be on spec, the low side, though I read of many sad stripped drain plugs issues and preferred even less.

This is easy job for the v6 because you don't have the exhaust under the pan. Reading through all my post on this may be best, as I later had time to digest my experience and reflect. And I would also defer to those with more experience/knowledge as necessary.

2005 4Runner 4.0 with 4wd It'll be in 2 post so it's easier to follow.

Just starting, going to paste these specs from related forums,

Please note: 4x4 transmission is the A750F, and I may have made a mistake in comparing the Transmission valve body removal capacity with the A750E specs, that will need more study, didn't see that till as of this current posting;

A750E Auto Trans.
Transmission Fill
Repair Fill Amount
Transmission pan and drain plug
removal 1.3 L (1.37 US qts, 1.14 lmp qts)
Transmission valve body removal 3.9 L (4.12 US qts, 3.43 lmp qts)
Torque converter removal 5.3 L (5.60 US qts, 4.66 lmp qts)
Entire transmission assembly 5.3 L (5.60 US qts, 4.66 lmp qts)

- Overflow plug torque = 15 ft/lbs
- Fill plug torque = 29 ft/lbs
- Drain plug torque = 15 - 20 ft/lbs

. Using Valvoline Max, seems the multi-viscosity is the issue and Valvoline has that covered "Engineered with a unique blend of viscosity modifiers and base oils to provide better oil flow at low temperatures and greater film protection at higher temperatures".

First remove fill plug, done. (To mention my fill plan, got a 1/4 inch inner diameter plastic plumbing tube and a Watts part # Pl230 Nylon hose barb elbow with small funnels at Menard's for about $7. Of course elbow should go in fill plug hole while routing tube to funnel tacked at right front wheel well, either going to plastic clamp it to somewhere on the vehicle there, or bungee strap it to a small step ladder there.)

Did remove drain plug, as much as I didn't want to, frame cross member would get soaked otherwise just removing the pan. On the 2005 v6 the exhaust is not under the pan.

Should mention I think this spec closely resembles pan gasket and filter change;
Transmission valve body removal - 3.9 L (4.12 US qts, 3.43 lmp qts)

But, also find it here
Pure FJ Cruiser Accessories, Parts and Accessories for your Toyota FJ Cruiser

Transmission valve body removal - 4.3 liters (4.54 US qts, 3.78 lmp.qts)

So I'm guessing to fill between 4.12 US qts and 4.54 US qts, And I got out about 4.2 qts not including residual in the drain pan and filter.

Gravity flow worked well, recommend getting a bigger elbow and tube, mine was 1/4 inner diameter coupled to a 3/8 tube attached to a funnel, could be run through the engine compartment but my splash shield is missing behind the right front tire, so I attached the funnel to a step ladder and filled from there; worked fine except slow with the 1/4 inch tube.

Next the drain plug torque is real important, seems there has been many stripped from other forums I've read, I am only going to 13 ft lbs and that in inch pounds is 156 in lbs. Yes, do get an inch pound torque wrench.

Next, I did a drain and fill after running the engine for 2 minutes and going shifting the gears 4 times. More dirty fluid came out, and now I just have to go fill it with about the 3 quarts for drain and fill.

Yep, drain and fill was just a little over 3 quarts, just finished the extra drain and fill, and am satisfied the 2 minutes and 4 shifts through the gears did remove more dirty fluid sufficient enough to make it worthwhile.

Drain plug torque, I just went to 140 inch pounds which equals about 12 ft lbs, seemed that may have been even pushing it, but I don't have any leaks and it's tight.

Another thing, though I may have complained about the 1/4 inch fill tube, maybe filling slower also allowed that it didn't drip while I was filling, so that may be good enough, your results may vary.

The original pan gasket was cork, so now I got the rubber one from the WIX filter kit #58136 at O'Reilly, Auto Zone gave me the Duralast kit TF348, but it turned out to be the wrong filter.

Overall, easy job, to summarize,
remove 24mm fill plug first, then 14mm drain plug,
drain fluid,
reinstall plug,
remove 20 12mm pan bolts and remove pan knowing there is still about a quart of fluid in the pan.
Then 4 14mm bolts on the filter, change out for new filter.
Clean the pan and magnets, I only had quick start fluid handy, seems to have work fine, so I let them dry then wiped again with dry cloth.
Reinstall pan, rubber gasket holds 20 bolts in place while you install.
Route fill tube with elbow to the front either out the wheel well or through to engine compartment, fill approximately 4.2 to 4.3 quarts of fluid.

My semi-flush drain and fill;
let idle for 2 minutes shifting through all the gears 4 times
Drain and fill.
Where I estimated 2 minutes was from the examples that used the transmission fluid cooling lines said about 7 seconds would produce about a quart, well I just put in 4.3 quarts and it would be circulated up from the pan, but not all would be fresh fluid at some point. So 2 minutes of circulation was just a guess, your results may vary.

NowI must go put on the fill plug and make a trip to Auto Zone to get a refund. I don't think it was the clerks fault, I think it is in their system wrong;

IT FITS. This product is a fit for your: 2005 Toyota Truck 4 Runner 4WD 4.0L FI DOHC 6cyl


Part Number: TF348
Alternate Part Number: TF348

Today I don't think I needed the elbow, I should have just put the fill tube in, tacked with a plastic clamp at the exhaust shield in 2 places to keep it in place. That's what I was doing, just had to check to see it was in place before poring the fluid anyhow.

To further explain the clamp, just using a plastic clamp around the tube to hold it in place and clipping it on the exhaust shield was handy and didn't hurt it.

I was thinking the elbow would make sure it drained down, but it would have no where else to go as long as the tube is in the fill hole at least past the threads. Something to know for next time, and the bigger tube 3/8 or probbably even 1/2 inch inner diameter would have been fine.

As before, you result may vary but given you have around 4 feet of tube, you can easily gravity fill this transmission.

And just to mention the heat, it is never hot because I always let the fluid drip for a long time duration. There's no reason to burn yourself on the exhaust. It's mid 70 degrees here, and I only ran the vehicle long enough to put it up on the ramps, then 2 minutes for the semi-flush-drain and fill, it ran for 2 minutes, but I let it drain for an hour. There was no drive down the block to get it up to operational temperature, in fact, I didn't do that to least disturb the dirt that could be settled in the pan.

Rhino Ramps--I got the big ones (16,000 lbs) because they're wider and it's quick, I just push the vehicle back the little it will move in park to wedge the ramp under the tire at the beginning of the ramp and they almost never move, (yes I grew up in the steel ramp era...)though wedging them may work on steel ramp too.

And while I am here, might just want to mention the information of why it is important to change the filter, from;
WIX Filters - Heavy Duty Transmission Filters - Products Information

Contaminants can enter your transmission fluid system in the manufacturing process. They can also enter the transmission through the vent, or through the dipstick and fill tube during fluid level checking/filling. Most of the time, however, contaminants are the result of normal wear. These contaminants consist of metal chips and flakes from gears and bushings and fine fibrous material from clutch facings.

WIX transmission filters protect transmissions against contaminants in the transmission fluid system. Proper filtration helps improve transmission life by minimizing wear and preventing sticking and scoring of sensitive shift control valves. In the event of a part failure, the filter also guards against secondary damage to other parts and thus helps to minimize repair costs.

Please note, this is where comparing the "Transmission valve body removal" capacity may be the difference between a 4x2 A750E and the 4x4 A750F specs, I still have to recheck this information. It is listed here for the Tundra as both being the lower spec;
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION (A750E, A750F)
https://mugga.net/Manuals/Tundra/Aut...ansmission.pdf
From page 8;
Transmission valve body removal 3.9 L (4.12 US qts, 3.43 Imp qts)

And the higher reference was from here;
A750E AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
http://purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007%2...d/01600210.pdf
Page 1
Transmission valve body removal 4.3 liters (4.54 US qts, 3.78 lmp.qts)


Just to reiterate on fluid volume, which is going to be important to some for whatever reason one is omitting the fluid level check procedure, could be justified, lazy, or like me indifferent as long as result is close enough, and I like to think I am within 2 tenths of ideal level, and there are probably many more that are fine being a little further out of spec range but close enough not to have impairing symptoms, and from the 2 differing specs mentioned earlier;

Transmission valve body removal 3.9 L (4.12 US qts, 3.43 lmp qts)

Transmission valve body removal - 4.3 liters (4.54 US qts, 3.78 lmp.qts);

I make the assumption that valve body removal is done while still on the vehicle and is just on more level beyond filter swap, but not being a transmission specialist, I would defer to one more informed.

Doing the math;
4.54 - 4.12 = 0.42 quarts difference (in specs by the professionals giving valve body removal instructions)

0.42 divided by 2 = 0.21,

so my guess is
4.12 + 0.21 = 4.33 quarts fill for pan and filter, approximately.

4.33 quarts to fill be within tolerance at 0.21 quarts either way.

I think that is sensible, also given how much fluid is in the valve body and what how long it is given to drip in either case.

And being that I'm piling on here is more encouragement;

From; Transmission Fluid Change Toyota FJ Cruiser

"Transmission oil deteriorates under heat. The hotter it gets, the less effective it is in providing efficient lubrication and cooling properties through the transmission. By not replacing the transmission fluid regularly, premature damage will be caused to the internal components of the transmission every time they overheat."

From; Avoiding Common Problems with the Toyota A750F Automatic Transmission

"As is the case with many other makes and models of automatic transmissions, lack of timely scheduled oil changes is a big cause of failure. I recommend that the fluid be changed at least every 25,000 miles, or every 20,000 miles if you tow with your vehicle. ...Don’t forget to change the transmission filter with every fluid change....Inconsistent and sometimes abrupt transmission shifts are another problem that many A750F transmission owners experience."

Me again -my fluid change did some good in that there was more of an abrupt jerk when putting it into gear, the next day after some driving I noticed it was seeming much smoother, though keep in mind there is some pull because a big motor is being engaged.

it seems like replacing it every 25000 miles is too early. the first time I changed my transmission oil (it was replaced all), my mileage was 65000 miles and it was still reddish in color, I used around 14Qts. now, i'm at 135000 miles and is replacing it again this Saturday, filter, gasket and another flush. I will post it in youtube soon.

I completed flushing my transmission oil last Saturday.

1. first, make sure the car is on level ground, (1 ramp on each tire).
2. I removed the oil level plug, drained around 1qt then plugged it back in.
3. I removed the drain plug, another 2 qts came out and then plugged it back in.
4. I then removed the 20 bolts to remove the pan and gasket, another 1 1/8 qts came out.
5. I removed the filter and replaced it with the wix on and cleaned the pan and the 4 magnets in the pan, there's a bunch of grease like fine metals. it's very important to remove those.
6. reinstalled the pan with a new bolt (old one was rusted enough that it's starting to break when loosening it, broke 2 bolts while removing it.
7. disconnected the transmission hose from the upper part of the radiator and filled with 4 1/8 qts of atf thru the radiator using an oil pump. (easy peasy this way).
8. connected another hose to the end of the hose and towards an empty container on the floor with a mark for each quart of oil. (used an empty wiper fluid container).
9. started the car until it filled up to at least 2 quarts and stopped the engine.
10. refilled another 2 quarts of oil then repeat item# 9 until you get a reddish color atf. (I used at least 14qts of oil)
11. put back the hose to the radiator and you are done with your flush.
12. all in all, my old atf oil has been used for 70000 miles and it still reddish in color but a bit darker. it seems like I could go another 30000 miles with the old one.

Here's the youtube link how simple it is to flush it. https://youtu.be/Q3fu0wiabFQ

Other posts clearly said that the top hose to the transmission cooler was the line FROM the cooler TO the transmission. I.e., fluid flowed OUT from the transmission cooler to the transmission.

The post above implies a flow in the opposite direction - it's implying the top hose flow is FROM the transmission to the radiator.

Is something wrong with the description, or is the flow reversed in the top/bottom hose for 4Rs with or without a towing package?

On my '06, which I drained, changed filter and flushed last weekend, the line at the top of the radiator on left side comes from the transmission. When flushing, I routed and power drained the rubber hose to a bucket, and refilled through the nipple on the radiator.

I was always under the impression that you'll make it worse by changing the oil, especially high mileage that's never been done before!

I've never touched any of my cars and it's never been an issue

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That is "old school" advice from back in the days of old technology, the older transmissions also were recommended to have the fluid changed around 50,000 miles or less but if you waited much longer than that sludge could form in the trnasmission using the older types of fluids and changing the fluid could dislodge that sludge which could clogged the valve body, in modern transmissions but especially the modern fluids the sludge is not much of a problem, even Toyota recommends changing the fluid at around 60,000 miles and those that have changed their fluid much later well over 100,000 miles very rarely has anyone ever reported any issues, in fact almost all report much better/smoother shifting, no more shutter and some even better MPGs.

That being said many still fear the old advice and only do a drain and fill which only replaces around 1/3 of the fluid and then run the vehicle for a few months and then do it again, repeat again after another few months until after a year or so you have gotten rid of most if not all of the old fluid with again no ill affects, but to each their own so everyone must do what they feel is best for them and their vehicle, but I having many, many years of auto mechanics experience have lived through both time periods and I choose to change the fluid in more modern vehicles and have never had any issues in doing so, but if it's not my vehicle I only do what the owner wants to do and feels good about.

I don't know how far "old school" goes. I'm not 40 yet and most of the cars I've owned were late 90s to more or less within the last decade.

I got that advance from a friend who's a good mechanic. Back 10 years ago or so when I had my 01 Solara 2.2ltr 4cyl I expressed interest in doing this and was advised against it. He said something along the same lines. It would dislodge stuff inside and you'd most likely need a new trans soon after. So I never did one. Sold the car with 300k miles. Back then he said out of all the ones that he's done or seen done most required a new trans afterwards.

I've only ever owned one new car. Everything else has been used and typically well over a 100k by the time I sold them. Everything from Camaros to Dodge Rams to Corollas. Never had transmission problems. Not saying it's not helpful but I think I'd rather not based on my experience vs having to suddenly spend thousands on a new trans

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That's fine, and as I said to each his on and I would never try and convince you otherwise, but by "old school" I'm talking about vehicles from the early 90s and older, I have been working on vehicles since the early 60s and I lived by that older advice back then because it was true then but not so much on newer tech.

That being said I would highly advise that you do check that the fluid level is and remains where it should be!!

two dealers told me the fluid is good for life. they can offer a 3 qt change for $300. supposedly there is a special procedure for this change (fluid has to be at a certain temp).

All the dealers will tell you that it's good for life because it's termed a lifetime fluid, and it's sorta what Toyota says the fluid is,...but Toyota also says in the Maintnence Schedule that it should be changed at 60,000 miles and especially if the vehicle has ever been used for towing.

Toyota would never have that in the Maintnence Schedule towing or no towing if it was truely a "lifetime fluid", they put that in there because they didn't want to have to replace transmissions that were damaged by having old worn out fluid in them!

But as I have mentioned, to each his or her own.