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Old 10-18-2017, 04:47 PM #1
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brake rotor/caliper/pad replacement - caliper piston, too?

So Toyota has told me that my right front brakes are not working and that there is barely any metal left, so they are recommending a complete front brake job soon.

I am not really the auto mechanic type but it seems the job isn't all THAT difficult and with the $800 they are quoting, I'm interesting in learning and saving some $$

I've found this kit

More Information for POWER STOP KCOE137

which appears to have everything I need for under $200 which seems like a pretty good deal.

I have been reading some threads, though, and have seen that these 4th Gen have an issue with the caliper piston being frozen and this is where i'm a little confused.

Will this part be replaced with the kit I linked above? Or is the piston over and above a normal caliper assembly? Is the frozen piston perhaps the reason that my current calipers aren't working on one side?

Any suggestions/comments, etc are most welcome.
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Old 10-18-2017, 04:50 PM #2
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The pistons (2) are part of the caliper. Normally you wouldn't buy them separate unless you want to rebuild the calipers yourself (which is not the case).

The job is pretty easy, probably the hardest part is the bleeding, if you do it yourself I recommend getting speed bleeders, they make it way easier for 1 person.

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Old 10-18-2017, 04:56 PM #3
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thanks for the confirmation - sounds like I don't need to worry about them as they'll be replaced.

A far as the bleeding, as long as having my wife or one of my kids pump the brakes will I work while I work at the wheels, I think we should be ok.
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Old 10-18-2017, 05:00 PM #4
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All good info from 4rnr4evr.

I'll add I have replaced the rotors on my 4runner. I know I can do the pads as well. I don't think you have to bleed the brakes. Watch some YouTube videos.

You'll remove the caliper and the bolt on the spindle holding the hardline. You remove that single bolt on the spindle so you can move the caliper off the rotor without bending the brake hard line. Old caliper comes off new goes on, easy.

Now the brake pads are easy and intuitive to change. Front uses pins to hold the pads. You'll want some brake grease for the back of the pad. The trick with changing the pads without dealing with the brake fluid is pushing the pistons back in the caliper so the new/thicker pads fit over the rotor. You can use a special brake tool or a c-clamp to push the piston back in then install the new pads and place the caliper back in place and bolt the caliper on the hub.

The rear brake pads are held in place by a clip, no caliper pins.
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Last edited by badattitude; 10-18-2017 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 10-18-2017, 05:02 PM #5
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With 2nd person it will be easier yes, however with speed bleeders you don't have to go through the whole loosen bleeder - pump - tighten bleeder - release - loosen bleeder... circus, you just go pump-pump-pump until you see no more air (I personally keep pumping a bit more). So in any case it's much faster.
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Old 10-18-2017, 05:03 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badattitude View Post
All good info from 4rnr4evr.

I'll add I have replaced the rotors on my 4runner. I know I can do the pads as well. I don't think you have to bleed the brakes. Watch some YouTube videos.

You'll remove the caliper and the bolt on the spindle holding the hardline. You remove that single bolt on the spindle so you can move the caliper off the rotor without bending the brake hard line. Old caliper comes off new goes on, easy.

Now the brake pads are easy and intuitive to change. Front uses pins to hold the pads. You'll want some brake grease for the back of the pad. The trick with changing the pads without dealing with the brake fluid is pushing the pistons back in the caliper so the new/thicker pads fit over the rotor. You can use a special brake tool or a c-clamp to push the piston back in then install the new pads and place the caliper back in place and bolt the caliper on the hub.

The rear brakes are held in place by a clip, no caliper pins.
He linked to a kit which includes replacement calipers (which he needs if his are seized). So bleeding will be required.
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Old 10-18-2017, 05:24 PM #7
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Is something like this what you are talking about?

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Old 10-18-2017, 05:44 PM #8
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Correct, if you are replacing calipers you will need to bleed. I missed that part about the caliper being seized.
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Old 10-18-2017, 07:55 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amheck View Post
Is something like this what you are talking about?

No, that isn't "speed bleeders", you shouldn't need that, only the speed bleeders.

These are speed bleeders (link below), which replace the normal bleeder valve on the caliper, one on each caliper, you just need to be sure you get the correct ones that fit the 4 Gen calipers.

https://www.google.com/search?q=spee...hrome&ie=UTF-8

The difference between a normal bleeder valve and a speed bleeder is that on normal ones when you open/loosen them the fluid can flow out under pressure but also air can flow/be sucked back into the cailper if you let off the brake pedal before closing/tightening the bleeder valve, the speed bleeders have a check valve built into them so when you loosen them the fluid can flow out just like normal bleeders but the built in check valve will not allow any air to be sucked back into the caliper.
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Old 10-18-2017, 08:40 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badattitude View Post
All good info from 4rnr4evr.

[snip]

The rear brake pads are held in place by a clip, no caliper pins.

Well, I think they do have caliper slide pins on the rear. They look a lot like the rears on my camrys over the years, just beefier. The slide pin is incorporporated into the caliper bolt.

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Old 10-18-2017, 09:42 PM #11
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gravity feed brake bleeding is the best and easiest way to go about it, you can just let it self bleed by cracking the bleed fitting open and just let it do its thing and come back after about 3-5 minutes to check if it has any air bubbles left, or you can pump the pedal to do it quickly. in your case since you are replacing the calipers you have a ton of air in there so i would let it sit and do its own thing until you see a solid stream of clean brake fluid with no air bubbles.

also its a very good idea to take this opportunity to do a flush and refill of all new fluid for all 4 wheels

here are two videos to help you out:

How to Replace Front Brake Pads and Rotors on a 2008 Toyota 4Runner https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3diBBpU1F1M


Bleed brakes by yourself - DIY Brake Bleeder tool - Brake flush https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ioHjV4d6BWk
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Old 10-18-2017, 09:46 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miranthis View Post
Well, I think they do have caliper slide pins on the rear. They look a lot like the rears on my camrys over the years, just beefier. The slide pin is incorporporated into the caliper bolt.

Jeff in KC
yes, on the rears the caliper mounting bolt doubles as the slide pin so dont forget to grease it very well

the rear is a single piston caliper so the inside pad wears more then the outside pad so you cant tell how much pad is left just by looking at what you can see from the wheel side
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:07 AM #13
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Any thoughts on the power stop kit I linked to in the first post? I think the brand seems to be fairly common at the discount auto type of stores. I just want to ensure I'm not buying total junk.

they have a upgrade "performance" kit for $100, I'm not sure if that's worth it or not.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....428892&jsn=395

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....428892&jsn=396

although this really is just a daily driver and kid hauler
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:14 AM #14
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Not worth it and the "increased performance" of drilled/slotted rotors is questionable.

If I wanted to pay extra I would pay for coated parts so they don't rust in 2 days.
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Old 11-07-2017, 11:42 AM #15
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hey guys, do you usually need to order these clips separately or do they come with the calipers?

https://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-H15..._&dpSrc=detail

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