Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,181
Real Name: Ron
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,181
Real Name: Ron
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Some other thoughts.
- The advice to buy a multimeter and check your voltages is right on. If you're getting 13.5-14.0 volts or so with the engine running, lights on, etc., the alternator is fine. No need to poke into it further. And don't get fooled by the argument "it can supply voltage, but maybe not current". If the alternator can hold 13.5 volts, it is supplying all the current that the downstream circuits and battery can accept at that voltage. If the alternator was current limited, the voltage would drop. That's just basic Ohms law of electricity.
- A properly working alternator will put out around 13.75 volts. The battery will accept whatever current it can at that voltage. The current will be highest if the battery is somewhat discharged, less if it is deeply discharged or almost fully charged. A dedicated battery charger will typically put out 16 volts or more, which will charge the battery faster, but at the risk of boiling electrolyte if it isn't well controlled. The alternator can certainly fully charge any lead-acid 6 cell (12V) battery, including an AGM.
- Your symptoms point to a bad battery. Easiest thing to do is to replace it, clean the connections squeaky clean (bright metal on bright metal) when you reassemble things, and don't look back. Since your battery is of unknown history, this will also give you confidence for the next 4-5 years.
- 90% of intermittent start problems, in my experience, have been caused by defective batteries. Most of the rest are bad connections. Alternators are way down on the list of things to check unless (a) the charge light is on, or (b) the bearings are making a lot of noise.
Edit: One other thing. When you measure the voltage, measure it directly on the battery terminals, and then on the cable clamps on the battery. If there's more than .1 volt difference, you have a connection problem.
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2006 Sport Edition, V8, 206K miles, 2.5/1.5" OME lift, SPC adjustable UCA's, 255/75/17 BFG KO2's load range C @ 40psi. Regeared diffs to 4.30, with TrueTrac in rear.
1994 SR5, V6, 5-spd, Aussie locker front, Aisin manual hubs, Truetrac rear, 33/10.50/15 BFG KO's, stock suspension, OBA (Viair 400C), Front Range Offroad twin stick, 225K miles. Dual 2.28 transfer cases, for a 90:1 crawl ratio.
Last edited by RonJR; 12-01-2017 at 01:45 PM.
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