Hello all,

I have searched and have found plenty of info on removing the XREAS but
wanted to run this by you guys for your opinion.

The official procedure to remove it is to let all 4 tires droop and then disconnect at the reservoir/connection junction box. Instead of completely lifting the vehicle off the ground, can I lift the front, remove the front shocks leaving the lines connected, install my replacement coilovers, then lift the rear, remove the shocks again leaving the lines connected, install the new rear shocks, and then disconnect the lines?

Thanks
Jose

You can, but why touch the old system twice? Clear them out and get it out of the way for a clean install. Don't make your life harder.

Yes. When my XREAS failed and I replaced it with Bilstein 5100's, I did the fronts first, but, I disconnected the lines at the shock before I took them out. My system was already leaking at that point and I only got a dribbble of fluid from the lines/shocks when the connection was broken.

There should be a check valve that a line runs to from each shock. Disconnect from check valve....and remove.

Just follow the line from each shock about 6-12" where you'll see a double-nut union. That's the check valve and the easiest and least messy place to disconnect it. That's also the place where the FSM instructs you to disconnect it if you are actually going to replace the shock with another XREAS shock. Supposedly you can do that once (for each shock) before the system loses too much fluid to work properly (and there's no way to refill it.)

I believe the system is linked diagonally front to back so only lifting the fronts OR rears will still leave pressure in the lines.

When I did my XREAS delete + lift install, I did the 4 wheel droop procedure. It resulted in a no leaks or spills during disconnect from the check valves as mentioned by
Front XREAS disconnects near the bumpstop


Rear XREAS disconnects near the sway end link

I did the fronts using the "no spring compressor" method found here in a few threads. Worked like a charm for both removing the old front setup and installing the new. Once I had the front end in the air and the suspension drooped I disconnected the lines at the valve (NOT the banjo bolt as some suggest). I got maybe 2 drops of oil, no squirts, nothing. Piece of cake.

Once I had the fronts back together I started on the rear shocks. Same process for disconnecting the lines. I drove around for a few weeks with the lines and "accumulator" still on the truck until I got time to remove them. Just follow the procedure for cracking the system at the correct fitting and you'll have no problems.

When I finally removed the rest of the system I don't quite remember where/how I relieved the pressure. I think I just wrapped a rag around the fitting near the accumulator and cracked it open. With no shock attached to either end there wasn't much pressure left (hence the need to replace them anyway). Just take your time and wear some safety glasses "just in case".