04-01-2018, 08:39 PM
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#1
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Front wheel binding on UCA install?
Installed my SPC UCAs this weekend. During the driver side install heard a popping sound after separating the upper ball joint. Front wheels spin, but there is a spot where I have to turn it to keep it going, so it doesn’t spin freely all the way around on both sides. Is this normal? Did I damage something? CV axle? Thanks for any insight.
Don’t want to drive it until I know so I don’t cause any more damage.
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04-01-2018, 10:14 PM
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#2
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I'm confused if you're saying that it's binding while the uca is disconnected or if it's all assembled again?
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'15 Mag Gray LE -- TOTALED | '14 TE wheels - dipped black, Falken AT3W 285/70/17 | SPC Adjustable UCAs | Daystar 2.5/1.5 top spacer lift | RCI Fuel Tank Skid (Steel) | Shrockworks Step Sliders (trimmed LE Rocker Trim) | SR5 front end conversion
'08 BP Urban Runner -- 5100 fronts at .85 with Toytec 620# springs | SPC Adjustable UCAs | Plastics Guy Front Bump Stops | ICON VS 2.0 Rear with Toytec Superflex 2 inch springs | RCI Transition, Front and Transmission Steel Skid | LT275/65/18 Falken Wildpeak A/T3W | 1.25 inch wheels spacers
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04-01-2018, 10:22 PM
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#3
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Front wheel binding on UCA install?
So you spin the wheel and tire with it off the ground and it won’t spin freely? Not sure what the upper ball joint could have done to the hub, were you yanking on the hub assembly like crazy? When I did my UCAs I was pulling stuff like crazy to get it fit in.
Don’t think it will be the CV though.
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04-01-2018, 10:23 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runn4est
I'm confused if you're saying that it's binding while the uca is disconnected or if it's all assembled again?
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It’s all assembled, but still up on jacks. Don’t see anything leaking out of the front diff. Maybe the CV axle is just binding a little because of the lift or because it’s drooping on the jacks? I didn’t check the wheel spin prior, so I’m not sure if it’s normal or not.
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04-01-2018, 10:28 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brownfaux
So you spin the wheel and tire with it off the ground and it won’t spin freely? Not sure what the upper ball joint could have done to the hub, were you yanking on the hub assembly like crazy? When I did my UCAs I was pulling stuff like crazy to get it fit in.
Don’t think it will be the CV though.
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With the wheel on and jacked up, it spins about half way freely and then hits a spot where it is more difficult to turn. I can turn through the spot and it spins freely again.
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Sold: 2005 4Runner Sport Edition 4x4 V8, K&N Drop In Air Filter, HCF Delete, WeatherTech FloorLiner Mats, Integrated Bluetooth, 2006 OEM LED Tail Lights, Yakima LoadWarrior, Cooper Discoverer AT3 265/70/17, Front: SPC UCAs, Bilstein 5100 at 1.75" FJ 4X4 Coils, Poly Sway Bar Bushings and Drop Kit, Rear: Bilstein 5100, FJ Coils, Daystar 1.5" Spacer, Spidertrax 1.25" 2015 Trail Edition wheels. 230,500 miles
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04-01-2018, 10:31 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimjj
With the wheel on and jacked up, it spins about half way freely and then hits a spot where it is more difficult to turn. I can turn through the spot and it spins freely again.
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04-01-2018, 10:53 PM
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#7
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Sounds to me the new UCA allows more droop than stock UCAs enough to cause your CVs to bind.
Jack the CV to a flatter angle and try spinning the tire.
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04-01-2018, 11:06 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm
Sounds to me the new UCA allows more droop than stock UCAs enough to cause your CVs to bind.
Jack the CV to a flatter angle and try spinning the tire.
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Sounds very plausible, I’ll give it a try.
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Sold: 2005 4Runner Sport Edition 4x4 V8, K&N Drop In Air Filter, HCF Delete, WeatherTech FloorLiner Mats, Integrated Bluetooth, 2006 OEM LED Tail Lights, Yakima LoadWarrior, Cooper Discoverer AT3 265/70/17, Front: SPC UCAs, Bilstein 5100 at 1.75" FJ 4X4 Coils, Poly Sway Bar Bushings and Drop Kit, Rear: Bilstein 5100, FJ Coils, Daystar 1.5" Spacer, Spidertrax 1.25" 2015 Trail Edition wheels. 230,500 miles
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04-02-2018, 12:17 AM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm
Sounds to me the new UCA allows more droop than stock UCAs enough to cause your CVs to bind.
Jack the CV to a flatter angle and try spinning the tire.
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That is the first thing I thought of also.
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04-02-2018, 01:51 AM
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#10
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UPDATE:
Jacked up the lower control arm and was able to spin the tire with much less binding. Did it on both sides to be sure. Took it for a test drive around the block and all seems well other than needing an alignment, no noises or grinding.
Now off to get the alignment done. Thanks for the help everyone, I really appreciate the advice.
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04-02-2018, 10:41 AM
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#11
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This is because the 5100s are very long at full droop you may get CV binding issues. 5100s are longer than any of the coilover brands "extended travel" version of shock, Fox, Icon, King, Radflo, etc. This binding can be made worse by adding a top plate spacer to the 5100 so if you have any spacers or trim packers on top you could try removing them. CV's bind at certain spot in rotation (3 spots actually) due to the shape of the tulip - cup.
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04-02-2018, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimjj
Installed my SPC UCAs this weekend. During the driver side install heard a popping sound after separating the upper ball joint. Front wheels spin, but there is a spot where I have to turn it to keep it going, so it doesn’t spin freely all the way around on both sides. Is this normal? Did I damage something? CV axle? Thanks for any insight.
Don’t want to drive it until I know so I don’t cause any more damage.
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What brand of CV axles do you have? Any spacers on those 5100s?
Also, could you post your fender to center of hub measurements when the wheels are off the ground? It'd be interesting to see how far those struts extend.
Thanks!
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04-02-2018, 01:37 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackoutt
This is because the 5100s are very long at full droop you may get CV binding issues. 5100s are longer than any of the coilover brands "extended travel" version of shock, Fox, Icon, King, Radflo, etc. This binding can be made worse by adding a top plate spacer to the 5100 so if you have any spacers or trim packers on top you could try removing them. CV's bind at certain spot in rotation (3 spots actually) due to the shape of the tulip - cup.
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Ah haa! This is the information I was looking for. Just installed 5100s saturday with my fj coils, could not get it to work for the life of me, then I pulled the top spacers. I still can't get the level I want yet, but I feel like a diff drop will solve that issue.
That's funny though, why they are so much longer at full droop? Sitting next to oem, they appear the same physical length. The only difference I saw was the bottom spring perch location was about an inch higher than stock, but I figured that wouldn't affect droop length, just pre-load....right?
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04-02-2018, 02:18 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey Wrench
What brand of CV axles do you have? Any spacers on those 5100s?
Also, could you post your fender to center of hub measurements when the wheels are off the ground? It'd be interesting to see how far those struts extend.
Thanks!
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I have OEM CV axles, but will probably swap them for CVJ at some point. No spacers, just the 5100s at 1.75 and FJ OEM springs.
I will post measurements when I get the chance, it’s being aligned right now.
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Sold: 2005 4Runner Sport Edition 4x4 V8, K&N Drop In Air Filter, HCF Delete, WeatherTech FloorLiner Mats, Integrated Bluetooth, 2006 OEM LED Tail Lights, Yakima LoadWarrior, Cooper Discoverer AT3 265/70/17, Front: SPC UCAs, Bilstein 5100 at 1.75" FJ 4X4 Coils, Poly Sway Bar Bushings and Drop Kit, Rear: Bilstein 5100, FJ Coils, Daystar 1.5" Spacer, Spidertrax 1.25" 2015 Trail Edition wheels. 230,500 miles
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04-02-2018, 02:20 PM
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#15
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Front wheel binding on UCA install?
Quote:
Originally Posted by blackoutt
This is because the 5100s are very long at full droop you may get CV binding issues. 5100s are longer than any of the coilover brands "extended travel" version of shock, Fox, Icon, King, Radflo, etc. This binding can be made worse by adding a top plate spacer to the 5100 so if you have any spacers or trim packers on top you could try removing them. CV's bind at certain spot in rotation (3 spots actually) due to the shape of the tulip - cup.
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Diff drop to ease the bidding then maybe. I’ve heard of issues with the diff drop making the inner skid plate hard to install. Anyone have experience with that?
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Sold: 2005 4Runner Sport Edition 4x4 V8, K&N Drop In Air Filter, HCF Delete, WeatherTech FloorLiner Mats, Integrated Bluetooth, 2006 OEM LED Tail Lights, Yakima LoadWarrior, Cooper Discoverer AT3 265/70/17, Front: SPC UCAs, Bilstein 5100 at 1.75" FJ 4X4 Coils, Poly Sway Bar Bushings and Drop Kit, Rear: Bilstein 5100, FJ Coils, Daystar 1.5" Spacer, Spidertrax 1.25" 2015 Trail Edition wheels. 230,500 miles
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