I've seen some posts about people removing the body lift. Was wondering if people are happy with theirs. Did it solve all the rubbing issues? Any other drawbacks?

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I'm very happy with my 1" body lift. Doesn't look to awkward (only at the hitch) bumpers stretched over it just fine, install wasn't too difficult (other than the jack wagon seller on here who put together a kit full of wrong hardware and wouldn't stand behind his product), it give a little extra clearance for full stuff (trimming and fitting still required for anyone serious about full cycling suspension) and allows for easier access for working on front suspension top hats, installing headers, cleaning around the frame in the rear. I'd do it again just with a 4crawler or toytec kit next time.

My brother removed his body lift on his FJ... to install a larger 1.5" kit like mine.

Like mentioned gives you more room to access things between the body and frame, and allows you to weld on your sliders higher up. You will still need to trim so it doesn't solve all rubbing issues but you will trim less. Depending on how far your tires stick out and how much droop you have, if your tires rub the top of the wheel well you will either need bump stop spacers (limits travel) or a BL (full travel).

Bolt on sliders and aftermarket bumpers might have a little gap depending on how large of BL you get, but I am happy with mine.

Some people wrestle with the steering spacer and swear it's install is the worst thing ever. I let my brother try it for 15 minutes until I came over and did it in 1 minute.

I'm happy with my 1" Toytec BS lift. Raised it up to add some extra clearance for tires, etc. This lift was just enough not to compromise anything in my case such as splash guards, bumper skin alignment, etc. Only thing I had to do was trim my fan shroud a little bit at the bottom to clear the fan. Bonus as mentioned by the others is the added clearance to access other suspension components (front strut top nuts, rear shock nut) and frame components.

Thanks for the input I thinking of going with the 1 inch body lift.

I've been pretty happy with my 1.5" body lift. It helps a ton with the 35's I am running.

Some days I want to remove my 2in bl but the truck has been built around the bl and would be a complete nightmare to refab everything.


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I never really understood why people do a body lift....

I DIY’d a 1/2” body lift out of UHMW plastic. Longer bolts needed only in the two rear mounts. Lessened the tire rub in a few spots. It was a fun project to do on my T4R and inexpensive. I have no plans to go larger and I’m sure the BL will be there till end of days.

Tires

Love my 1" BL from Toytec

Wouldn’t have it any other way.. i actually wonder how a lot of guys don’t run a body lift.. a moderate body lift done right only has advantages for me..


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Don't be lazy, skip the body lift and trim. I don't understand why people are so afraid to trim. They act like they will return it to stock one day and nobody does that even if they think they will.

Body lifts put a lot of weight up higher and in rock crawling the goal is to get weight lower while still having clearance. Body lifts are for mall crawlers and show trucks.

I think raising the center of gravity 3/4" is worth 1.5" more bump travel and sliders and bumpers 1.5" higher.

Not every offroader cares about rock crawling.

I said rock crawling but it should be common sense that in every form of offroading, keeping the weight low is the best for performance.

Both my bumpers low points are against the frame so a BL would help zero. I'd rather run a 2" smaller tire than a 1" BL, but I know most people just want that bling factor of a larger tire.

I trimmed and fit 37's. A little over 12" travel front and rear. Zero body lift. I'm going for function over form though.