I’ve been trying to chase down this ‘clunk’ that happens when going over a concrete drain curb, or turning while backing.

When I back up and do almost full turn of the wheel ( when backing from my driveway out of the garage to run and then exit my drive) I hear this significant ‘clunk’ and can feel it in the steering wheel.
When turned and going over the drain curb to my drive, I hear and feel the same noise. Backing from most parking spots I get the same.

It’s not a ‘click click click’ that you would expect with a CV joint.
This weekend I put a wrench on every nut I can find. I put 5100’s in 3 years ago so I know the suspension well.

I had a bad wheel bearing on the passanger side that I was hoping was responsible. That’s now replaced.

I lifted the wheels and all tires are solid, so wheel bearings are good. I feel no wiggle in any joints as I try to move the tires while up on the jack. All feel tight.

I’m wondering what this group suggests to check. I can’t find anything loose, but it’s some clear suspension clunk when turning tight and/or going over a dip at low speed. I don’t hear it over normal bumps and pot holes while driving.

Any ideas would be appreciated

I've had two clunks. One was the drive shaft needing grease , but that was from a stop.

The other, which sounds similar to yours was before I changed my sway bar bushings. They were not noticeably loose when tested by hand.

Good luck

I also had a clunk from my front end, particularly going over bumps. Replaced my sway bar bushings and its completely disappeared. Used some poly ones with zerks, it's a pretty popular and easy mod.

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Loose/Clunking front end - 140K miles 03 V6

Clunking noise in front suspension- Really annoying!!!

Front suspension clunk

Whew, that was some work.

Tried sway bar bushings first. Improved the cornering a bit, but didn’t fix my issue.

Went ahead and replaced both LCAs which included the ball joint. Since it was apart, I also did the inner and outer tie rods on both sides. After alignment she drives great and clunk is gone!

No kidding, if you aren’t cussing while getting the LCA off, you are doing it wrong. Passenger side totally ceased up. Took 5 sawzall blades to cut her off! Not for the faint of heart.
Took her back to NTB for an alignment and was informed my “lifetime alignment” expires next month. I’m still on the same tires I bouoght it with. Lifetime?

I'm just guessing here but most of these so called "Lifetime Alignments" deals are sorta like the Toyota's "Lifetime Transmission Fluid"...."Lifetime" of what(?)!!

Yeah, in fairness, I got three. One with new tires, one when I did the strut/ springs and now this one. I’ve noticed at NTB appointments mean nothing, and alignment only is last to be served.

I’ll just pay my good local guy from now on. My time has a value to it.

I get a front end noise going over dips or bumps. I’ve removed the skip plates and the sway bar including the links but no luck.. the sound didn’t go away and it drives me crazy. I have bilstein 5100 installed about 4 years ago and also had my LCA’s replaced about 2 years ago. Any ideas what might be the issue?

Video with sound:
Toyota 4Runner (2007 4th gen) front end noise over dips or bumps - YouTube

My last clunks are gone.

My upper ball joints were bad. Didn't notice until I parked and yanked on the top of the wheel and could see it moving in and out. This also stopped the vibration on the highway at 70mph. This was a quick and cheap fix.

The steering half-shaft also was clunking, giving a feel in the steering wheel that something was loose. $290 after tax from toyota, but it was easy enough and now it is all solid.

Ball joints

After replacing my front wheel bearings and coil-overs I started to hear a clunk. So when I parked it, I was able to reproduce the clunk by grabbing the roof rack and shaking the the whole truck. Sure enough, the clunk was very apparent. The sway bar bushings were shot. After changing the bushings and links, no more clunk.

My biggest worry on my ‘07 sport with 223,000 miles was breaking the bushing bracket bolts. I would highly recommend using an impact wrench, and continuously go back and forth working the bolt out slowly with wd40. If you just use a breaker bar and socket, you risk snapping/shearing the bolt off in the hole.

The air box connection to the fender on the V6's will clunk like a bad shock when the foam insulation dries out.

LCA bushings. Easy enough to check but when those goes bad make you feel the whole front and shot.


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$50 poly (and grease-able) sway bar bushings fixed mine. But I guess mine is a youngin' with "only" 150,000K on it

Check the bushing at the bottom of the front struts (front shock absorber). It is easy to see if the bolt is still centered in the outer sleeve. The weight of the truck rides on those two little bushings.
If you have skid plates, check mounting bolt tightness, and also:
- Gravel between the exhaust crossover pipe and the skid plate can give a rattle.
- Even if the bolts are tight, the skid plates will move under the bolts when the frame flexes. Try a gasket between the skid plate and frame at the front. I used the thin but tough rubber fabric used to patch rubber rafts.