[Charles4x4]

After a month of tracking these down (railroad delays, lost shipments, delivered to the wrong address, etc), the 4 salvage doors finally arrived just in time for this weekend!

[Inv4drZm]

Originally Posted by Charles4x4

Doug Thorley Headers and Hi-Flow Cats should be done today.

I'd love to dyno it, but don't have the $'s in the budget. My best guess is the 4.7L will be b/w 350-375 HP by the end of the weekend, but that may be overly optimistic. Headers alone are a 30 HP gain.

If you setup a gofundme or something I'm sure you could probably get enough 4runner enthusiasts to pitch in to get this thing dyno'd.

It should only be $100 max for a couple runs.

[Charles4x4]

Originally Posted by Inv4drZm

If you setup a gofundme or something I'm sure you could probably get enough 4runner enthusiasts to pitch in to get this thing dyno'd.

It should only be $100 max for a couple runs.

Good idea, but I have to find the time! It's crunch time to get all the AL items done on the list in the next 5-weeks before the big trip to CA.

[Charles4x4]

Help Needed:
I still need to figure out how to "extend and re-route" the stock fuel lines.

I.e. what AN fittings, converters, and flexible steel braded lines will I need to add a flexible fuel line between the end of the stock hard lines and the stock pump/sender unit that will be relocated to the fuel cell in the cargo area?

Proposed Sequence:
Stock fuel line --> converter/AN --> route flexible steel braded lines up into the cab to the fuel cell --> AN/convert back --> stock lines at the pump/sender unit.

Note I also posted a separate thread to get larger feedback:
Fuel Line Help on KOH Build

[Charles4x4]

Originally Posted by Charles4x4

After a month of tracking these down (railroad delays, lost shipments, delivered to the wrong address, etc), the 4 salvage doors finally arrived just in time for this weekend!

Well, the guy in CA sent me 3rd gen doors on accident. Nice guy - refunded me on the spot. But it’s back to the drawing board on doors.

Tube doors with sheet metal skins are sounding better and better...

[WhiteBoomer04]

Originally Posted by Charles4x4

Help Needed:
I still need to figure out how to "extend and re-route" the stock fuel lines.

I.e. what AN fittings, converters, and flexible steel braded lines will I need to add a flexible fuel line between the end of the stock hard lines and the stock pump/sender unit that will be relocated to the fuel cell in the cargo area?

Proposed Sequence:
Stock fuel line --> converter/AN --> route flexible steel braded lines up into the cab to the fuel cell --> AN/convert back --> stock lines at the pump/sender unit.

Note I also posted a separate thread to get larger feedback:
Fuel Line Help on KOH Build

I'm cross posting myself lol but....

Could you cut your OEM line where you want. Then using a die, cut a thread to screw the AN line fitting on to. From there run the SS braided lines?

A number of the racing shops in CA would be able to help in the process if you decide to leave it stock till you get out here in Cali..

I went to a speed shop in Moorpark (which is about an hour from Wyatt at RST) and they sell the AN fittings and SS Braided hose. I'm guessing there's some speed shops more south. I'm sure Wyatt can manage this for you although I know hes flat out at the shop these days

[WhiteBoomer04]

Originally Posted by Charles4x4

Well, the guy in CA sent me 3rd gen doors on accident. Nice guy - refunded me on the spot. But it’s back to the drawing board on doors.

Tube doors with sheet metal skins are sounding better and better...

Again, this may not help if you want the work done NOW, but I was at three wrecking yards last weekend. We were scavaging parts for my sons '03. Some of the 4th gen bodies still had doors on them.

One yard had a full body, including interior, (with enough damage to the front to be a write-off) but they were about to start wrecking it this week. So, I have seen doors here in Sun Valley where most of the wreckers are at. There are I think five Toyo specific wreckers I know of...

Toyota Center Auto Dismantlers
LA Toyota Auto Dismantlers
Toyota World
Toyo Parts Only
Kens Toyota Trucks

I think there might even be a few others I have not bothered going to...

You need me to go check out doors for you?

[Charles4x4]

Originally Posted by WhiteBoomer04

Again, this may not help if you want the work done NOW, but I was at three wrecking yards last weekend. We were scavaging parts for my sons '03. Some of the 4th gen bodies still had doors on them.

One yard had a full body, including interior, (with enough damage to the front to be a write-off) but they were about to start wrecking it this week. So, I have seen doors here in Sun Valley where most of the wreckers are at. There are I think five Toyo specific wreckers I know of...

Toyota Center Auto Dismantlers
LA Toyota Auto Dismantlers
Toyota World
Toyo Parts Only
Kens Toyota Trucks

I think there might even be a few others I have not bothered going to...

You need me to go check out doors for you?

Yes! I'm striking out on the doors! Who do I need to call - i'd love to somehow grab 4 doors before they are scrapped!

[Charles4x4]

We had a huge push this past weekend. Six friends came over to lend a hand. Everyone was exhausted by the end.

1) Exterior tear-down complete:




2) Interior tear-down complete (and rear seats temporarily reinstalled until the drive to CA):




3) Fiberwerx Fenders and Salvage Hood Installed:






4) Salvage Rear Lift Gate installed (we had to tweak it back into place due to a prior roll-over):


5) Fuel/Air Ratio Gauge Installed / Fuel Pressure Gauge ready to go, but haven't found a place to tap into the lines just yet as the adapter we purchased didn't fit:


6) Master Kill Switch Installed, but I still have to find a place for the Big Red Button:




7) URD MAF Calibrator Installed, but I haven't tuned it with the provided software yet:


8) Drivers Seat Installed on temporary brackets (hopefully we'll keep the slider somehow - it's nice to be able to adjust the seat). Passenger bracket was missing in the shipment, so it'll probably be here in a week.




9) Fuel skid removed, Fuel cell mount holes drilled and Artech mount installed. Still need fuel line adapters before I can actually mount it and I need to drop the stock tank.

10) Doug Thorley Headers and hi-flow Cats installed late last week (engine video on Instagram and Facebook):






I'm probably forgetting a few things as it was a blur of a weekend. It's nice to finally have the DD done so we could tear into it!

[CAPS1]

Looking good! Hope its all coming together smooth!

[WhiteBoomer04]

Originally Posted by Charles4x4

Yes! I'm striking out on the doors! Who do I need to call - i'd love to somehow grab 4 doors before they are scrapped!

Sent you a pm

[Charles4x4]

Master Kill Switch mounted:


The Kill Switch has been a learning experience. The kit I have kills the battery, but the alternator keeps going.

Their description:
"Our Master Disconnect kit with Emergency Push Button is perfect for race applications as it allows you to install a large push button in easy reach if you need to shut down your vehicle's electrical system in a hurry. Kit comes complete with one 250 AMP solenoid, one Emergency Push Button, wire, mounting hardware and connectors."

Per Painless, I have to either run the kit I have now through a HD disconnect:
Master Disconnect Switch With Mounting PanelDetails | Painless Performance

Or run a second Alternator Kill Switch:
High Amp Alternator Shutdown RelayDetails | Painless Performance

The Alternator kill switch keeps everything in the engine bay and I won't have to run tons of Starter and + Batter cables into the cab, so I'm leaning that way.

[bombventure]

Excited to see this build come together. You’ve got some awesome things going on there.

Keep up the good work!!

[snivilous]

Not sure how other people do it, but how I originally did it was alternator to battery, battery to switch, then a power line back to battery location where everything tied in. All power sources have to be before the switch (battery and alternator) otherwise the truck won't turn off.

I didn't look at your switch much but it appears to just be a push button? Is it a momentary or a normal switch? I wouldn't run a momentary since then you can't kill the power to everything indefinitely unless you're pushing it down constantly.

Also your location looks really hard to reach. I bet you'll have a hard time reaching your 4WD shifter when you're strapped in, let alone reaching across the dash to kill the thing if it catches on fire. Maybe your arms are really long though.

[Charles4x4]

Pic of the heart of the Master Kill Switch wired in the engine bay - the plastic red push button simply finalizes the circuit ground once it is pressed. This is the Heavy Duty portion of the Painless system: