Hello all, Ive been having a Steering wheel shake at the same speed range 45-55, however it doesn't happen all the time. Also had a slight vibration in the steering wheel after 50 too but no shake aside from randomly at 45-55. Ive had the tires Road force balanced and rims checked and they're all normal and should be running fine. Also a slight pull to the left

Today I jacked up the truck and saw my boot was ripped on the drivers side and my wheel bearing on the left side is going too. Could these cause the steering wheel issues along with the need for another alignment ??

Any help would be appreciated!!

The above could definately be a cause, Also a frozen caliper was causing shakes for me- even with my foot off the brake

I just replaced both of those last year so Im hoping thats not the case again but I have heard that they do it often

wheel bearing could be it. i took mine in for an alignment a couple months ago and they said they wouldn't even do it because my bearing was bad and it would throw the alignment back out within a week or two. bearings usually just cause a loud hum, though. i've never had steering wheel shake from it. that's usually a brakes or tires issue.

i purchased a bearing assembly from marionbumper2bumper, a member here and on TW. his communication is piss-poor and he's slow as hell with shipping (order confirmation email said 2-7 days, took almost four weeks) but he makes a great product. $170 shipped. tire shop wanted $350, i can't imagine what the stealership would charge.

thats still a lot for an assembly. you can get a heavy grade compete hub assembly off rock auto for $130 shipped and have it within a week. I did that for my driver side and after 19 months she's still working perfectly. im waiting on my hub to come in and debating on replacing both axles while I have it taken apart (they're still the 14 year old factory ones).

Had this same issue recently in my 03 V8. Came up after I finished installing my lift. Thought it was the front drive shaft, lubed with not much improvement. Ended up reading further and you may be dealing with the torque converter issue like me. I ended up going to the dealership for a trans flush (16 qts full flush $350) and added a tube of shudderfix. The 03 has the benefit of having a trans dip stick, but I'm not sure your year does. You'd have to add it from below. So far the issue has cleared up almost completely. Seems it needs some miles to get "cleaned up", but it has steadily improved. Glad it's helped, as I don't want to have the torque converter replaced.

Interesting, Ill have to keep that in mind. Im thinking since the shake happens sometimes and not all the time its a bearing issue/ alignment so ill guess we'll find out friday when I have new axles/ bearing and new springs and shocks put in

It was happening to me under increased torque conditions with lower RPM's, was typically falling between 45-50 uphill at 1400-1500RPM, and it also did it when I got on the throttle from a stop. Also happened on the highway at around 65, but was better when below or above that speed with stock tires. There are a few threads about the issue, and somewhere in there you can see if switching from D to 4th gear helps the shaking when it occurs. If it does, signs point to torque converter. Hope it's something simple and cheap for ya though!

Are you lifted at all? this could be caused by ultra low caster in your alignment, also the CV joint.. and or sticky caliper.

Also, Lower control arm bushings.

3in leveling spacer. I had it aligned a year ago and they had no problem getting it aligned properly. im putting in all new cvs when I do the lift friday. whats the typical cost for LCA bushings?

Bushings can be tricky on these. Apparently when Toyota installed the cam bolts for the lower control arm, they didn't use anti-seize. I recently dealt with this myself. The adjustment cams were seized to the bushings themselves. I had to use a torch and a sawzall to get them out, and an air-hammer would have been helpful. 2 of 4 were seized completely. At very least, be prepared to replace all of the lca cam hardware at the outset. The recommended route is to buy new lower control arm assemblies, as they come with new bushings and new lower ball joint installed. Recently got my oem lca's on amazon for about $500 total. Prices were different on each side. Toyota 48069-60010 and 48068-60010. Bushings alone are possible, but can be quite the endeavor.

jesus. well fingers crossed that isn't the problem. from every mechanic ive talked to and told them the bearing was bad they said thats 99% probably the problem

As mentioned above, replacing LCA bushings is probably not worth it.. Buy factory OEM genuine complete LCA's. its pricey but its worth it.

3 inch spacer.. what upper control arms are you running to compensate for the new suspension geometry? if your on stock uca's.. your probably is almost definitely a caster issue, or its exaggerating the issue.

The needle bearing ( on your v6?) using makes noise before it dies. similar to wheel bearing.

I had my mechanic buddy check out my bushings and their still fine. theres actually no noise coming form the suspension except for the slight hum of the passenger bearing. from all the research ive done up here any lift less then 3in shouldn't need aftermarket uca. But I have some on hold at a local shop just in case they're needed.

well you dont "Need" them. But you cannot correctly adjust for the caster you loose when raising the front of the vehicle with stock UCA's.. Low caster creates a twitchy light steering or even vibration under acceleration.

The hum is most likely the bearing.