So I just noticed that there is about a 3/8" gap above the lower bushings of my body mounts. This leads me to believe the uppers have squashed that much. The only replacements I can find are OEM which would make this project about $350.

Has anyone had anyluck buying cheaper poly body lifts and just cutting them down?

Look at www.rockauto.com I think Dorman makes replacements. No matter what direction you go it's not going to be cheap. Body lifts are used along with the OEM mounts and are made of hard plastic. You can't replace the soft rubber with hard plastic.

Just found this. Not sure if you can make this work or not.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-P...pe!21043!US!-1

On can try! I may just go OEM. Most expensive but least work and guaranteed fit.

Update on this project. Amazon FTW again! Febest makes non OEM replacements and they provide a product guide in the pictures of their bushings. I am going to attempt this upgrade this thanksgiving.

FEBEST TSB-120FUP Body Bushing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R985MO0..._nfrLBbMPV025R

Awesome! Thanks for updating the thread for future reference/searches!

I have a feeling that the gap between the lower bushing and the mount is there by design, to give the required amount of frame flex at certain locations. Might want to look in to it a little more before you try to fill the gap.

So I installed new engine splash guards today and at first I was like "WTF? For $70 the manufacturer should get these to fit right." And then I remembered this post about how I thought my body bushings were squashed. Well I think these pictures are indicative that the splash guards are made correctly and I need to replace my body bushings. Below are some pics from my dupe post over at GXOR

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...8&type=3&ifg=1

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...8&type=3&ifg=1

i have the febest installed and they are so much better. my oem ones were so soft compared to the new ones. when you get the new ones in your gonna have to clean rust off the center collar caused by water getting in between the gap. so clean then up and use some silicone spray to lube.

the gap is not supposed to be there because there is a steel collar in the center as to not over tighten the rubber bushing. This is what really isolate the body from the frame vibration. that gap is the amount of movement your body had every speed bump and it would hit on the way up and then down. if your UCA bushing had any gap in the bushings then you would be all over the place. my old ones were soft and squished terrible combination.

Thanks for confirming my suppositions. What resources did you use? Writeups? Or am I over thinking it? Do I just loosen the bolts, jack up the body and swap them?

just use the body lift right up that you can use the bottom one drops out just lift the body enough to get the upper mount from the top. just remember 2 bushing per mount and steel spindle isn't included. don't over torque the nut it squishes and adds wear.

Hey everyone. I have a similar question/issue with the bushings and stabilizers on my 2006 V6 2wd.

Every time I am driving, I am hearing loud clunking and rattling every time I hit a bump/flaw in the road. I decided to take it to Firestone to see what those geniuses could diagnose it as. They told me it was time to replace my struts (quoted me like $800-$1,500 lol, yeah right) so I did a little research here to see what I could find. It sounds like a few others have experienced this same issue. A few have claimed that they replaced their sway bar bushings and their rear stabilizers and it seems to have fixed this issue. It very well might be that my struts are gone, but I figured that I would replace the bushings/stabilizers first and see if this would do the trick before I took it back to FS and had them totally replace the struts.

Does anyone have any input, comments, part recommendations or advice before I proceed?

A little of topic, but your help is appreciated.

ZO

Well, you have a 12yo vehicle. if the shocks have never been addressed then it should be the shocks. shock absorbers lose their performance starting at 50k miles and are completely dead by 100k miles. Without know the vehicle maintenance history and only knowing its age, you need sway bar bushings, sway bar links, balls joints, control arm bushings, and shocks/springs.


So, how many miles are on i tand what does the maintenance history look like?

I replaced my original 12 yr old bushings with OEM bushings. It cost way more than $350

Was it worth it? I think I gained back 1/16" to 1/8" on some bushings. Was expecting more like a good 1/4" but my original bushings were not that bad (compressed).

The only ones that I gained back a good 1/4" was the two most forward bushings. I think the extreme flexing on the body in the rocks is probably most absorbed by these bushings. I have the FJ Cruiser problem of fender bulge - I think probably caused in part by using body lift spacers that puts the body higher but potentially puts more stress on the body panels as the truck flexes.

I'm not concerned about it given the age of my truck because I use it ion the rocks, but its not ideal!

I took this on and got one side done and now trying to do the driver side, but the 3rd bolt (under rear seat) is somewhat stuck- it can spin and slightly rock but it won't go up and out of the sleeve section. Lower bushing and sleeve are both out, and I've lifted the body enough to free the top bushing. I've used Fluid Film and PB Blaster to creep up the bolt shaft and I've even tried multiple times to press the floor jack into the bottom of the bolt but it still won't come out. Any advice how to remove this simple bolt?