I threw away the instructions that came with the kit back in December 2018, but I'll try to summarize them from memory, if I can.

Here's the gist of it:

1. you first had to open up the fuze/relay box under the hood and find a certain relay (was easy to find) and then do a little operation regarding that relay, memory is fuzzy, but iirc it was probably piggy backing onto intput or output pin with provided hardware, and then plugging that factory relay back in
2. a new relay from the kit was added to the inside of the fuze/relay box, a double-sided piece of tape was provided to fasten it to a prescribed blank space with all the other relays. Some wires were connected and stuff.
3. a long length of wire then exited out the fuze/relay box under the hood, you had to route it across the firewall to the passanger side and to the sensor (some sort of airflow sensor, probably) on the air intake. Maybe it was two wires though, I can't remember
4. Then you had to splice into one of the wires connected to this air flow sensor on the air intake, such that some sort of componant that came with the kit, probably the new relay, was now in series with this wire

In no way should this be regarded as official instructions. I'm just trying to give a general idea was what is involved. The actual instructions are much, umm, better

The kit provided everything I needed:

• relay with wires already attached, with shrink wrapping and everything
• wires
• wiring connectors. He provided really nice ones that were very easy to use, much nicer than what you find at the auto parts store
• the little piece of hardware for pigging backing onto the relay pin
• zip ties
• anything that you would need but I have forgot about
• oh yeah, the adhesive strip for fastening the relay to the inside of the relay box

Thanks, i remember stumbling upon an earlier thread talking about that secondary air injection thingy, and was a little scared hearing some of the bills people got. How hard was the install?

Did the Rutech forever ago. Haven't installed the actual plates, but the module was stupid easy to install and very high quality. Well worth the $$$

Hey guys, I didn't even know this thread existed. I'm linked in to the other two AIP related threads so I see when those are updated.

For those on the fence, get a bypass. Mine, his, theirs, whoevers. Doesn't matter per-se. All depends on your budget, they all work the same way.

To save me "do you still make bypasses?" emails. Yes I do.
They are $48 via paypal to jeffcole75 atgmaildotcom
Make sure to include your address.
If it's a Sequoia, LC, LX, Tundra, let me know as those cables are different lengths.
I ship out next morning after payment received.
Instructions included, my phone number is included if you have questions/concerns.
Email me at above email as well if you have questions.
Thanks
-Jeff
-Slyfox75

I have had the slyfox bypass installed for about 5 years, and I just installed the new doug thorley long tube headers and y-pipe which delete's the cats. The truck ran great at first but after warming up I was getting a CEL for the downstream o2 sensors. The truck still ran well, but I wanted to get rid of the CEL so I called Jason Burtman and he sent me some 02 spacers. After installing the spacers and new rear 02 sensors, I immediately got codes for the secondary air pump and MAF sensors:

P0037 B1-S2 HEATER ISSUES O2
P0057 B2-S2 HEATER ISSUES O2

P0102 MAS AIR FLOW SENSOR

1440& 1443 0AIR INJECTION SYSTEM

I replaced the MAF sensor and no change. I am wondering now if 1) the relay went bad in the slyox bypass, or 2) the bypass doesn't play well with increased flow of the new setup.

Took it to the local Toyota dealer and they wouldn't touch it bc of all the aftermarket parts (and probably the lack of cats). Anybody have any suggestions on where to go from here? I have reached out to Jeff and am waiting to hear back, so I thought I'd hop in the discussion here.

Hey Everyone,

Looking to bypass my working AIP for futureproofing and I was wondering about the Rutech and Hewitt kits. The Hewitt kit includes a starter relay wire that prevents the pump from activating if you leave the key in the ON position for a long duration before starting. The Rutech kit doesn't have this it seems.
Should I buy the Hewitt kit instead because of the starter relay bypass? Or does the Rutech kit not have this problem?

Thanks in advance for the help!

my bypass(slyfox75) and the Hewitt bypass both work the same way and run a wire to the starter relay. This allows you to have the key in ON for as long as you would like and then when you finally turn the key all the way to start, the system will work properly. The RuTech version requires you to turn the key fairly quickly after you put the key in. To most, this is a non issue. To others it is a HUGE issue. All depends on how you use your vehicle.

So my question is...what happens if you don't turn the key right away with the Rutech? Will it damage the unit causing starting issues?

I think the better question would be. why waste the money? The slyfox kit comes with clear instructions and took me 10 minutes to put in. everything is in the box. it's not as 'plug and play' as the others, but gives you flexibility. And saves you some $$ while supporting a forum contributor who has helped a ton of people with this problem.

To answer your question.....if you dont turn the key right away on the RuTech version, it will not have power to "drive" the circuitry inside the unit, so it would be like having NO BYPASS. So if your system is in functional order, no issue. If you have issues with your system(whole reason you bypass), it will try to come on just as if you never put a bypass in and you could get codes.

how can you tell if your system isn't working correctly? Just error codes?

J.

I had this problem in my 2010 Tundra 5.7 with 70k on it about 2 years ago. (before it was totaled a month later).
You will get a CEL after starting it, and it will be in limp mode. I couldn't drive over 30mph, and 35 miles from home. No warning whatsoever.
Lucky for me, Toyota covered it under the 'recall'.

Now I have a 2005 4runner v8, and am not thrilled to hear the problem exists with the 4.7 as well. Wonderful!

Mine has 196k on it, no history of problems with it in the service records.
Which means I am a sitting duck more than likely.

So I guess I better get the bypass ordered from Jeff asap.

If anyone wants the Rutech plug and play, (no cutting or splicing), PM me. Ordered it but didn’t realize it cannot be used on 08-09.

Brand new unopened. $150 shipped.

The system will begin to fail in many different ways....I have yet to see any pattern by area of country, mileage, etc. It appears to be completely random.
-Shop Vac noise on a cold start.....usually no codes when this first begins to happen. But the sound is an indicator your on borrowed time.
-Limp mode(see above) usually this happens a couple times, you can clear and get "ok" again but it will progressively get worse.
-Sometime(as was my case)......no sound, no limp, just codes......then investigated and did the bypass. This too will only get worse and more common the longer you put it off.

if you are bypassing the system and going to block off the tubes at the manifold, could you just remove the entire system from under the hood and save the weight?? I guess a different way of asking would be if the system is never going to engage then can it just be removed from the engine?? Or would it set the check engine light from the stuff being unplugged?? Thanks