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Old 05-28-2019, 07:22 AM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _chassis_ View Post
Berty_K, great thread, thanks much.

How long did the radiator replace take you? Did you need to remove the fan and fan clutch? I have similar secretion of coolant. Not an urgent job, but it's on the list.
Not long. No, I didn't need to remove the fan or fan clutch. Finished it in about 2 hours and bought everything off Rock Auto.

The spring clamps were suprisingly tricky.

This thread helped me: How To: 4th Gen V6 Radiator Replacement/Tranny Cooler Install | Toyota 4Runner Forum [4Runners.com]
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Old 01-10-2020, 11:22 PM #17
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Changing Transfer Case, Front Differential, and Rear Differential Oil

Required Items:
  • 7 Quarts 75w-90 Gear Oil (1.5 Front; 1.5 Transfer Case; 3.2 Rear)
  • 24 mm Socket for drain/fill for rear and transfer case
  • 10 mm for drain/fill plugs on front differential
  • 3x Gasket #12157-10010 (Front Fill, Rear Fill, Rear Drain)
  • 1x Gasket #90430-24003 (Front Drain)
  • 2x Gasket #90430-18008 (Transfer Case Fill, Transfer Case Drain)
  • Torque Wrench
  • Drain Pan

Helpful/Optional Items:
  • Oil Hand Pump
  • Breaker Bar
  • Lift/Jack Stands

Front Differential:
  1. Remove Front Skid Plate
  2. Remove fill plug w/ 10 mm hex
  3. Remove drain plug w/ 10 mm hex
  4. Drain oil
  5. Replace Gaskets (Fill 12157-10010, Drain 90430-24003)
  6. Reinstall drain plug w/ 10 mm hex (48 ft/lbs)
  7. Add 1.5 Quarts (Until oil dribbles out)
  8. Reinstall fill plug w/ 10 mm hex (29 ft/lbs)

Transfer Case:
  1. Remove fill plug w/ 24 mm socket
  2. Remove drain plug w/ 24 mm socket
  3. Drain oil
  4. Replace Gaskets (Fill & Drain 90430-18008)
  5. Reinstall drain plug w/ 24 mm socket (27ft/lbs)
  6. Add 1.5 Quarts (Until oil dribbles out)
  7. Reinstall fill plug w/ 24 mm socket (27 ft/lbs)


Rear Differential:
  1. Remove fill plug w/ 24 mm socket
  2. Remove drain plug w/ 24 mm socket
  3. Drain oil
  4. Replace Gaskets (Fill & Drain 12157-10010)
  5. Reinstall drain plug w/ 24 mm socket (36 ft/lbs)
  6. Add 3.2 Quarts (Until oil dribbles out)
  7. Reinstall fill plug w/ 24 mm socket (36 ft/lbs)

Sources:
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Last edited by Berty_K; 01-11-2020 at 11:10 AM.
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Old 01-10-2020, 11:40 PM #18
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Tire Rotation Guide w/ Spare



Lug Nut Torque Specs: 83 ft/lbs
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Last edited by Berty_K; 01-11-2020 at 10:14 PM.
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Old 01-11-2020, 02:37 PM #19
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You are thorough with your posts, thanks!
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Old 01-11-2020, 10:14 PM #20
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Originally Posted by royal T4R View Post
You are thorough with your posts, thanks!
Thanks! Sharing the information I compile.
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Old 01-11-2020, 11:02 PM #21
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Tire question

So much good info here and your 4R looks great!

I've been thinking about running Spidertrax with my 255/80s and JBA high caster arms. Do you have any tire rubbing at all at full lock with your setup?
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Old 01-11-2020, 11:30 PM #22
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Originally Posted by ahe242 View Post
So much good info here and your 4R looks great!

I've been thinking about running Spidertrax with my 255/80s and JBA high caster arms. Do you have any tire rubbing at all at full lock with your setup?
I have the standard JBAs.

I did have some rubbing initially, but no more after I pulled my fender liners forward a bit. Was a piece of cake.

The spare is a bit of a tight squeeze, but it fits.
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Old 01-27-2020, 12:05 AM #23
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Replaced the passenger front differential axle seal. Was my first time pulling out the CV axle. Whole job took about 2.5 hours. I'll post my thoughts later.

Also got to use this Locknlube grease coupler. Total game changer for working with a grease gun to grease the zerk fittings on my car. Wish I had gotten it earlier. Made the entire process a breeze. No more busted knuckles, stuck fittings, or grease leaks.

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Old 04-09-2020, 12:48 AM #24
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Adding a Transmission Cooler

Finally added a transmission cooler. Felt my transmission was struggling last summer with my 33” tires and roof top tent (which I recently upsized).

My goal was a clean, OEM look. I really wanted to avoid ugly brackets. I’m very happy how the install turned out.

Here's what I needed for the install:
  • Derale 13503 Plate & Fin Cooler. Tube and fin coolers are the least efficient, then plate and fin (what I bought), then stacked plate.
  • Hayden 106, 4' Transmission Line
  • .25 Quart ATF Fluid
  • 1 Rivnut (I used an M8 because I didn't have an M6)
  • 30 mm M6 Spacer
  • M6 Nuts: 40 mm (for offset mounting), 20-25 mm for mount to crossmember
  • M8 Nut: 20-25 mm into rivnut
  • Abrasion protection sleeve for transmission line
  • Other tools for checking transmission oil level (see referenced link

Tips for the install:
  • This is an in-series install. Not a bypass (not recommended based on my research). Transmission cooler comes after the radiator, and the output from the cooler goes back to the transmission.
  • Bottom inlet is the input and top is the output. This orientation is recommended to minimize chances of an air bubble gets stuck in the cooler, thereby decreasing efficiency
  • As far as I understand, you cannot over-cool transmission fluid. So, I chose not to install a bypass valve for the transmission cooler, which bypass the transmission cooler on startup to help it get up to temp faster.
  • I only needed to drill one hole and install one Rivnut (I used an M8 because I didn't have an M6 Rivnut. Bothers my OCD but whatever.) Other two mounting points used already threaded holes. See my pic. I needed a 30 mm spacer for one of the mounting points (see pic)
  • When you add ATF and run the ATF fluid temperature check process, expect to wait MUCH longer. I waited 45 minutes (normally around 20 min) for the temp to come up to “measuring temp.” Towards the end of the process, I realized I could speed up the process by restricting flow to the transmission cooler with a fancy, high tech piece of cardboard. Place cardboard infront of the cooler to block airflow through it.
  • Took about 3 hours for the entire process
  • Remove the bumper. Its annoying but the extra space made the install much easier
  • Remove bottom skid plate for easier plumbing
  • IMPT: When drilling into the cross member, realize the AC condenser is inches away from the tip of your drill bit. IF you puncture the AC condenser, you're going to have a very bad day. Work around is simple. Take a piece of steel, aluminum, plywood, etc and wedge between the condenser and cross member.

Some helpful links I referenced
Now for some pictures

In the process:


Close-up of mounted cooler:


30 mm Spacer:
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Last edited by Berty_K; 05-12-2020 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 04-09-2020, 09:27 AM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berty_K View Post
Finally added a transmission cooler. Felt my transmission was struggling last summer with my 33” tires and roof top tent (which I recently upgraded).

My goal was a clean, OEM look. I really wanted to avoid ugly brackets. I’m very happy how the install turned out.

For my install, I used a Derale 13503 cooler and bought and extra 4' of transmission line (glad I did this). Specifically, I bought Hayden 106 line off Amazon. Also used another ~.25 quarts of ATF to top off the fluid.

Tips for the install:
-This is an in-series install. Not a bypass (not recommended based on my research). Transmission cooler comes after the radiator, and the output from the cooler goes back to the transmission.
-Bottom inlet is the input and top is the output to minimize changes an air bubble gets stuck.
-Tube and fin coolers are the least efficient, then plate and fin (what I bought), then stacked plate
-As far as I understand, you cannot overcool transmission fluid.
-I only needed to drill one hole and install one Rivnut (I used an M8 because I didn't have an M6 Rivnut. Bothers my OCD but whatever.) Other two mounting points used already threaded holes. See my pic. I needed a 30 mm spacer for one of the mounting points (see pic)
-When you add ATF and run the ATF fluid temperature process, expect to wait MUCH longer. I waited 45 minutes for the temp to come up to “measuring temp.” Towards the end of the process, I realized I could speed up the process by restricting flow to the transmission cooler with a fancy, high tech piece of cardboard.
-Took about 3 hours for the entire process

Some helpful links I referenced

Proper tune routing instructions:
2006 4.0L Transmission cooler installation, with some pics. - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

Helpful general DIY
How To: 4th Gen V6 Radiator Replacement/Tranny Cooler Install | Toyota 4Runner Forum [4Runners.com]

How to put car in ATF Temp Check mode
How to Drain/Refill Automatic Transmission | Tacoma World

In the process:

Close-up of mounted cooler:

40 mm Spacer:

Looks great! I've been telling myself I need to add an extra tranny cooler, I just have't yet. My thought was to do a much bigger one in place of the one in the radiator. My background in Volvos with trans/oil coolers built into the radiator tells me that removing extra connections and or failure points isnt a bad idea.
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Old 04-15-2020, 11:30 PM #26
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Extended rear links finally going in... 3 years aftery lift was installed. Oops.

These are non-adjustable and custom. If people are interested, I'd consider making more to sell. Made out of 3/8" hardware.

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Old 05-12-2020, 07:48 PM #27
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Links are in

Late update, but links are in. Old ones were surprisingly a pain in the ass the remove.

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Old 05-29-2020, 09:55 AM #28
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Morimoto Mini D2S

New projectors are installed. I went with Morimoto Mini D2S 5.0 bixenon projectors with Osram Xenarc CBI bulbs. I chose the Morimoto over the G5R because I wanted a more balanced output.

The projectors were retrofitted into my projector housings. Bracket was from Custom Bracket Designs.

Comparison picture of OEM projector (in my hand) and Morimoto D2S 5.0 projector (mounted in housing).


Here's how I originally mounted the projector & bracket


Unfortunately, this created clearance issues for me with the factory shroud and lens


The shroud touching the lens is no problem, but I was getting alignment issues on the passenger side due to the shroud interference. My solution:
  • Move bracket to front of projector (some dremeling was required to open up the bracket)
  • Open up the plastic backing on the old projector (image below)


Output shot:


Overall, I'm very happy with the setup and well worth the cost and time. Huge difference in output (both low and highbeam).
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Old 08-31-2020, 09:39 PM #29
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Suspension Air Lift

With the extra weight on my 4Runner, I noticed some significant squatting on my last trip. The ride wasn't great and my headlight aim was completely off. I decided to purchase a Air Lift 1000 kit to fix the squatting.

Which Kit to buy
For our stock 4Runners, Air lift recommends their 60809 Kit. However, many of us (including me) are running a rear lift. I, for example, have about 1.5 to 2 inches of lift in the rear. As such, I chose to go with a kit with a slightly taller bag: 60744 Air Lift Kit. This kit is about 1" taller.

Installation is relatively straight forward. I won't cover the steps here, but will share some helpful DIY's I referenced:
Some helpful information I'd like to provide.
  1. I found a lot of conflicting information on how many "pucks" to cut off of the rear bump stops. Cut them all off. Air lift suspension works by filling the gaps between the coils, preventing them from compressing. This essentially make the coil stiffer, helping keep your rear end from squatting. The bump stops shouldn't be compressing the air bags. According to Air Lift, its better to be slightly undersized than oversized (see third bullet).
  2. Linked vs Unlinked Bags: Linked means air can transfer from side to side. Unlinked means air cannot transfer from side to side. There are pros and cons to both. Linked- More articulation off road as air can transfer between bags. Unlinked- Similar to adding a stiffer sway bar, also independent control of air pressure means you can fine tune for uneven weights. I used an air switch from McMaster-Carr to be able to link & unlink the bags: 6791T13
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Old 08-31-2020, 10:39 PM #30
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Nice 4Runner and build thread! I'll keep an eye out for you if I drive to the city
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