[Berty_K]

My next big "project" will be rust treatment. I'll be documenting my research and work here.

[awhitney1]

Really enjoy your thorough updates! I can't wait to see what the processes you take to do the rust treatment, something I need to do.

Originally Posted by Berty_K

My next big "project" will be rust treatment. I'll be documenting my research and work here.

[Sean7]

Originally Posted by Berty_K

My next big "project" will be rust treatment. I'll be documenting my research and work here.

Will be curious to see what you'll end up doing.

My buddy and I found a shop near fox lake that is certified by fluid film. I think we're going to clean up the surface rust and pay them a 100 and have them spray it.

[Berty_K]

Originally Posted by awhitney1

Really enjoy your thorough updates! I can't wait to see what the processes you take to do the rust treatment, something I need to do.

Thanks! Trying to pay it forward. I've learned so much from this forum.

Originally Posted by Sean7

Will be curious to see what you'll end up doing.

My buddy and I found a shop near fox lake that is certified by fluid film. I think we're going to clean up the surface rust and pay them a 100 and have them spray it.

$100 isn't bad actually when you consider a 6 pack of FF costs about $50. I'm not looking forward to dealing the nasty smell, overspray, etc.

[Berty_K]

After flirting with the idea of adding a dual battery under the hood, I realized a battery box would be (1) simpler to implement and (2) a better overall solution than having another battery under the hood.

I have a plywood drawer system and was able to mount everything in the nook between the 2nd row seats and the drawer system.

This is my first time working on electrical components. I thought I could get away with solder and not a proper wire crimper. After trying to solder one connection, I decided to buy a proper crimper. While soldering connections may be cheaper if you have everything you need, soldered connections are messy and they create a rigid connection which is prone to failure from vibration-- solder isn't flexible.

Plenty of people shit on the Harbor Freight crimper because the die sizes aren't correct (they aren't), but you can easily get around this by using a bigger die size. Don't make the same mistake I did. Buy the damn crimper.

I used 6 and 4 AWG wiring cable along with the following key components:

1. Go Wise 1000W Pure Sine Inverter (Link)
2. Victron Isolated 18 AMP DCDC Smart Charger(Link)
3. Duracell 24M Deep Cycle AGM Battery (Link)

Wiring Schematic:


Final Product:

[Berty_K]

Overall, this was a massive pain. Make sure you don't skimp on PPE! I had a full tyvek suit, eye/ear protection, and a p100 respirator. This stuff is nasty.

1. Scrap off all rust (This was easily half the project)
2. Clean with acetone
3. Paint on a layer of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Platinum
4. Dry for 4-48 hours
5. Paint with Extreme Chassis Black

For scraping, I'd recommend a flap disc and wheel brush on an angle grinder.

[Berty_K]

I also wanted a roof rack, but didn't want to pay $1K. So I made my own.

I used this video for inspiration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSOVnRDGtS4&t=0s, but had to make some adjustments because the video was for 5th gens.

Overall very pleased how things turned out. I used bedliner for easy touch up. No wind noise.

[Berty_K]

Planning on doing this for the first time this weekend (oops). Notes go here.

Materials

1. DOT 4 Brake Fluid (Link)
2. Motive Power Bleeder (Link)

Procedure

1. Attached Motive Power Bleeder (dry) to master cylinder, pressurize to 15 PSI, and check for leaks
2. Remove Power bleeder
3. Remove old Brake Fluid from master cylinder with turkey baster
4. Fill Power Bleeder with clean fluid
5. Pressurize to 15 PSI
6. Bleed in following sequence: passenger rear, driver side rear, passenger front, driver side front

Reference: Toyota 4Runner Brake Fluid Flush

[AuSeeker]

Originally Posted by Berty_K

Planning on doing this for the first time this weekend (oops). Notes go here.

Materials

1. DOT 4 Battery Fluid (Link)
2. Motive Power Bleeder (Link)

Procedure

1. Attached Motive Power Bleeder (dry) to master cylinder, pressurize to 15 PSI, and check for leaks
2. Remove Power bleeder
3. Remove old Brake Fluid from master cylinder with turkey baster
4. Fill Power Bleeder with clean fluid
5. Pressurize to 15 PSI
6. Bleed in following sequence: passenger rear, driver side rear, passenger front, driver side front

Reference: Toyota 4Runner Brake Fluid Flush

This is the first time I ever heard of anyone flushing their brake system using "battery fluid"....but your brakes should get a hell of a charge doing that way, definitely a new meaning to "power brakes"!!!

[Berty_K]

Originally Posted by AuSeeker

This is the first time I ever heard of anyone flushing their brake system using "battery fluid"....but your brakes should get a hell of a charge doing that way, definitely a new meaning to "power brakes"!!!

LOL. Not enough sleep or coffee.

[46runner]

thanks for the shout out! and thanks for the tips!

Originally Posted by Berty_K

Flushed my transmission fluid today. A few notes I'd like to memorialize.

I used this DIY by @46runner . Its very thorough and walked me through the process in just the right amount of detail. ATF Exchange (using the cooling line). A few notes

• The DIY recommends using a milk jug. Get 2. I did this for two reasons: (1) Less mixing of old and new fluid, and (2) easier to match up amount of new fluid to pump in. I'm extra and bought these from McMaster McMaster-Carr
• After you drain the transmission fluid, inspect the fluid. Do two things: (1) smell the fluid and make sure it doesn't smell burnt, and (2) pour some on a white piece of paper and make sure you don't see any metal flakes. My transmission had 163k on OEM fluid and did not exhibit either of these characteristics.
• Its mentioned in the DIY, but make sure you have a short 24mm socket. You won't be able to get a ratchet on the end of a deep socket.
• I bought 14 quarts of ATF WS and used 13. The DIY suggests flushing 12 quarts and adding 12.5 quarts. However, in the DIY at the final fluid level check, nothing comes out of the overflow plug. I flushed 12.5 and added 13 quarts. Fluid did come out at the final fluid level check.
• You'll notice the fluid you are flushing out becomes significantly more red at the end of your flush.

[Berty_K]

Originally Posted by Berty_K

After 11 Chicago winters and 165k miles on the odometer, my exhaust has finally rotted out. I get a rattle when accelerating from a stop. I believe the outlet pipe from the muffler is partially sheared. Some Highheat JB Weld is currently temporarily holding things in place.

While a SS exhaust is tempting, I've decided to go with Walker components off Rockauto; price and mostly positive experiences on T4R informed this decision.

Once again @46runner 's DIY here was a great reference.

I'll be dousing the exhaust spring bolts with liquid wrench for the next few days.

I'll be replacing everything past the muffler:

• Gasket: 31639
• Spring Bolts: 36454
• Muffler: 56177
• Muffler Hanger (x4): 35725
• Gasket: 31384
• Tail Pipe: 54611
• Tail Pipe Hanger: 35017

All in cost ~$210 +tax/shipping.


FSM Component Overview and Torque Specs


Walker Component Overview

After ~30k miles, the Walker Exhaust has significant rust. The tailpipe tip is completely covered in rust (more than surface rust) and the inside of the tail pipe resonator is starting to disintegrate. I knew I was taking a chance, but honestly expected the exhaust to last a bit longer. Buy nice or buy twice.

I got my hands on a new 5th gen muffler and tailpipe for cheap. PO had a TRD exhaust installed when he bought his car new. Interestingly, the tail pipe has no resonator. Curious to hear how the car will sound. Will share updates.

[Berty_K]

All done. Job took a bit longer than I expected because all the hardware was rusted and I had to break off the weldnuts mating the front and center exhaust components.

The 5th Gen Exhaust bolts DIRECTLY in without need for any modification. I remember reading somewhere someone needed to bend a hanger post-- I did not need to do this. Either there was a exhaust design change with earlier 5th Gen exhausts (unlikely) or the exhaust hanger was accidentally bent.

Initial reactions- the OEM exhaust is much quieter than the Walker system, particularly when idling at a stop light. My wife noticed it too, so it's not just wishful thinking on my end. There is also no resonator, but I couldn't notice a difference in sound. Mashed the pedal a few times to see if the exhaust would sound louder, but nope. Toyota quality always beats aftermarket by a long shot.

So... If you took me back 3 years, would I have bought a new Toyota exhaust? Absolutely. OEM prices are hard to justify. I picked up this exhaust for $225-- a bargain. BUT I also bought the Walker exhaust for about $250. For another few hundred, I would have had quality parts and not needed to spend a few hours playing with my exhaust again.

Buy nice or buy twice.

[4runrr]

I've really enjoyed reading through your mods and maintenance journey. Thanks for sharing with the community!

[Berty_K]

Overhauled my JBA upper control arms today. Bushings and joints were completely fried at 75k. Both the ball joint and bushings were the original design. Two key issues with the old design:

1. Old ball joint had a poorly designed boot that left a gap right below the UCA arm. Dirt and grit accelerated wear. Passenger side ball joint had play much like a worn wheel bearing. JBA's newest boot fixes this problem.
2. Bushings would get "extruded" out from greasing due to them being press fit and wedged between UCA washers (see below). Bushings were completely mutilated coming off car. JBA's newest bushings have channels for grease, fixing the pressure issue.

Many tips on how to go about replacing a UCA, so won't rehash here. However, will share some JBA specific tips for anyone who needs to do the same.

• JBA uses a locknut instead of a castle nut for the ball joint. I was unable to completely remove either nut. The nut seizes towards the bottom of the ball joint. Needed to use an angle grinder to cut off both ball joints.
• Driver side: Remove the battery, 10mm harness clip, and brake line attachment (wheel well).
• Passenger side: Unbolt the AC hard line so you can push it out of the way. Also unbolt the brake line attachment (wheel well).
• Instructions don't mention loading the suspension before torquing the UCA bolts to 85ftlbs. You need to do this for the LCAs to keep the bushing from twisting and tearing early on. Perhaps not necessary given the UCA bushings are free to rotate, but I this anyway.