I replaced my LCAs a few months ago and went with the Moog bolts and cams.

Safe to say I wish I bought OEM.

Yes, Moog works, but doesn't have any of the alignment marks on the cam. So, you'd really need a machine to give it a proper alignment.

The hole through the middle doesn't concern me, most of the strength is gained on the material further away from the center axis. Tubing for example is still pretty strong compared to solid bar even with most of it's material removed.

I've heard of problems with the Moog bolts though, not as good as OEM but probably cheaper.

Those Moog alignment bolts are JUNK. Ran them for a week on the street and not only did the plates deform, they could not hold an alignment. Moreover, their design creates large stress risers on the edge of the threads near the flat part creating uneven bolt loading.

Rip them out and go back with OEM. Put a nice coat of anti seize on everything and you’ll be fine.

Actually, they seem to be more beefy than the stock bolts. They feel heavier and thicker. The grease hole is very small and I honestly cant see where even with heavy abuse that this would fail.

OK, lemme ask this now...

Assuming I have an extra car to drive for a few days... what are the thoughts on retaining the OEM LCA's that I own and simply replacing the bushings with OEM parts? (Or somehow getting used ones and doing the same)

Of course this would require dropping them off at a shop, but that would have to be a more cost-effective alternative to replacing the whole unit.

It would also depend on being able to remove the LCA without cutting it up, I'd imagine....

Yeah you can do that. I am planning on doing this with the pair I just pulled off my gx. I plan on using the sawzall ti cut the rubber out and then cut a slit inthe old bushing sleeve.

Well I replaced my control arms over the last few days. I did both uppers and lowers. Used the ones from 1A Auto that everyone has been having good luck with. I will say that they appear very well made, if anything a little heavier than OEM, but of course the proof is in the pudding and we will see how long they last.

I also changed my struts with KYB ready-struts, and inner and outer tie rods with Moog. Used new OEM cam bolts.

Three out of four of my cam bolts were seized. No amount of heating, hammering, prying or anything else would get them out. I ordered the Diablo carbide tipped blades in advance of the job and they worked great. I only used two blades in the process. They actually cut fairly easily, probably took five minutes per cut.

The hardest part of the job was the damn top hat on the struts was basically welded to the frame. There was a small bit of corrosion there and I beat the damn things with the biggest hammer I could find and they would not budge. Ended up heating up the mount and using a big prybar to try and get between the mount and strut. They were a bit%#.

Other than that, and cutting the cam bolts out, it's not a terrible job. Just takes a fair amount of time, the right tools and a lot of kerosene as it has been extremely cold here lately.

this seems like a good option
Alignment Cam Extractor Press Tool (40915)

Need some help. Did a lift install last week on my 19 Pro. I had problems with the driver side rear cam bolt. I loosened it using an impact on the rear nut. It loosened and the cam plate backed off. I put back together so the cam plate is in the same position as the plate on the other side of the bolt. I then used a wrench to tighten the bolt back down. I cannot get the nut to tighten all the way. It seems stuck. I tried turning the bolt side and the nut side but it won’t tighten all the way. It’s popping while driving. I’m concerned that the nut and bolt will need to be replaced. Looking for ideas to get it tightened. I’m having an alignment but I want to resolve the stuck bolt before thy appointment. Dumb question but should I tighten and loosen from the nut or bolt side?

Since my inspection is due, I’m Wondering if I should get it inspected at dealer and ask them to fix the bolt. Maybe they’ll warranty it?

Attached Images

 

Doesn't the cam plate in the picture spline to the bolt? Pull nut back off make sure the cam plate splined onto bolt and retighten. Might even pull bolt side out a bit and push back in make sure everything is seated properly then tighten nut.

For whatever reason I can no longer get the bolt or nut to loosen up. It’s stuck. Debating cutting the nut with a cut off wheel and splitting it with a chisel. Pissed my entire lift install is f-d up by this one bolt. I’m now realizing that I may not have the cam plate seated right and maybe it got screwed up by trying an impact to tighten it since I couldn’t get it tight by hand.

Any tips?

How did the CA’s and shocks work out for you? I am thinking of installing those exact same parts (1AAuto CAs and KYB shocks).

Really sorry Toystory2, I haven't logged in since forever. Still very happy with the parts. No issues at all.