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Old 11-08-2018, 04:26 PM #16
Shadycrew31 Shadycrew31 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nm_alien View Post
This is just a wild guess and not based on my personal experience, but I think you should remove the boost motor and inspect its condition. My suspicion is that there are either some mechanical issues with the brushes, a bearing has gone out or some object has gotten wedged between the rotor and the outer case/magnets.

The motor is pretty simple to remove if you already have the old unit off the vehicle. You need to disconnect the red and black leads from the side of the ECU, which requires prying out the rubber plugs and unscrewing them. Then there are 3 screws that hold the motor housing onto the pump.

Once the motor is removed, there is a black rubber dust cover that simply peels off to expose one side of the stator/brushes and one of the bearings. A little bit of prying between the black plastic flange (rotor housing) and the metal flange of the motor housing will eventually allow you to separate them and then you'll be able to see what's inside the housing and around the rotor. The magnets will try to keep the unit together so be prepared for a little resistance when prying apart the housing.
Interesting, once I get the new shop setup I'll give that a shot. would be great to have a "new" one as backup. I think it ran us close to $1500 for the unit and programming from the dealer after I did the install.

Last edited by Shadycrew31; 11-08-2018 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 05-12-2021, 11:07 AM #17
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Resurrecting rather creating a new post.

I'm preparing for doing the work to replace the brake booster pump assembly and accumulator. Basically I'm going to carry over the master cylinder and ABS ECU as I felt that the pump and accumulator are my issues (high current draw and more frequent cycling).



My question is (and I'm sorry to pick on @BlackWorksInc ), I have access to a Power Probe brake bleeder (Amazon.com: Power Probe 2.5 Gallon Electric Brake Bleeder: Automotive), will I still need to cycle the solenoids and the ABS pump (get a computer or something else to preform this) in order to bleed the master cylinder? Or will this power bleeder be able to provide enough pressure to bleed the MC all the way through to the caliper lines?
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Old 05-13-2021, 12:13 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nm_alien View Post
Speaking of the ABS alarm, it will come on while bleeding the rear brakes using the FSM procedure, since the car uses the pump to push the fluid out. But once you tighten the bleed nut, the pump pressurizes the system and the alarm shuts off. Just an FYI for anyone using the referenced method for manually bleeding the brakes.
When the ABS light and alarm came on as you were bleeding did it throw a Toyota trouble code for low accumulator pressure? I’m assuming that this trouble code can appear when the abs light and alarm comes on because the accumulator is unable to maintain pressure due to line being open while bleeding old fluid out.
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Old 07-21-2021, 08:38 AM #19
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wow, quite helpful pictures, someone mentioned that he was able to swap the bad brake booster pump, without dropping the whole unit. from the pictures you posted, i really dont see how this could be done.
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