1. The only thing replaced this time were the brake pads, and yes, they were the same PowerStop Z36 pads.
2. My truck is a Sport Edition so it already has the larger 338mm rotors.
3. The calipers were fine when the brakes were done 44K miles ago. This was the first time I’ve had a caliper problem since buying the truck in 2014 with 96K on the odo.
4. I haven’t considered the 5th Gen swap because I’m happy with the 4th Gen Z36 kit on my truck.
Swapped in UCAs and coilovers from a 2020 Tacoma TRD Offroad to complete my latest suspension setup (installed new 4Runner 4600s p/n 24-186049 on the rear a couple of weeks ago).
Notes:
- Installing coilovers is (obviously) much easier with the UCA removed.
- 3rd Gen Tacoma UCAs are plug and play on 4th Gen 4Runners.
- Steering is noticeably tighter with much less drift.
- Battery removal is not necessary to install the driver's side UCA. The clearance issue when sliding the long bolt forward comes down to fractions of an inch and involves 1) the bracket holding the cabling to the positive side of the battery and 2) the tray itself. Just remove the 10mm bolt holding the bracket and swing it out of the way as shown in the pic below. Then undo the battery hold-downs and lift the battery & tray just a smidge and it will clear.
- The FSM calls for a new castle nut and clip to attach the UCA to the knuckle. I debated this, figuring the old ones would almost certainly be fine. Found out I could get new nuts & clips for $6 at Cobb County Toyota and decided it was a good investment considering the consequences of a failure, however unlikely it might be.
- These LED lights from Home Depot (link) are very handy for working on vehicles. Note one hanging from the fender in the wheel well shot above. There's a magnet in the swingout hook so it can be attached in many places where good light is needed.
Swapped in LCAs and coilovers from a 2020 Tacoma TRD Offroad to complete my latest suspension setup (installed 4Runner 4600s on the rear a couple of weeks ago).
Notes:
- Installing coilovers is (obviously) much easier with the LCA removed.
- Tacoma LCAs are plug and play on 4th Gen 4Runners.
- Steering is noticeably tighter with much less drift.
- Battery removal is not necessary to install the driver's side LCA. The clearance issue when sliding the long bolt forward comes down to fractions of an inch and involves 1) the bracket holding the cabling to the positive side of the battery and 2) the tray itself. Just remove the 10mm bolt holding the bracket and swing it out of the way as shown in the pic below. Then undo the battery hold-downs and lift the battery & tray just a smidge and it will clear.
- The FSM calls for a new castle nut and clip to attach the LCA to the knuckle. I debated this, figuring the old ones would almost certainly be fine. Found out I could get new nuts & clips for $6 at Cobb County Toyota and decided it was a good investment considering the consequences of a failure, however unlikely it might be.
- These LED lights are very handy. Note it hanging from the fender in the wheel well shot above. There's a magnet in the swingout hook so it can be attached in many places where good light is needed.
I think you mean UCAs.
UCA = Upper control arm
LCA = Lower control arm
I replaced my UCAs on Saturday with SPC adjustables. Less than 45 minutes per side for just the UCAs.
__________________ 2003 4Runner Limited 4wd V8 - Build thread on Tacoma World
FJ tcase swap, VVT intake swap, Solid Offroad motor mounts, Doug Thorley y-pipe, Bold Performance cat-back, ADS shocks F&R, Metal Tech LTHD springs rear, 1" body lift, 285/75/17 Toyo R/T Trails on Sequoia rims, Coastal front bumper, CAD rear bumper
Thanks for your time and effort on this post. I saved it for the future once I sourced my shocks.
Today is the day. I started at the back and removed the xreas shocks. I noticed you bent your fender liners to remove them. I found by removing both 12mm frame bracket bolts, I could lower the line in order to disconnect the valve connection. Just in case anyone ran into the same issue.
My question is for anyone who removed their xreas shocks, did you try to compress them to see if they still had pressure? I tried to compress both rears after they were off the truck and they only moved about 1” then rock solid. Either the oil had nowhere to go or they are seized. Is that normal to be locked up like that?
__________________ 2007 4Runner Sport 4WD 4.0L 228,000 miles The real stats on gun murders in America compared to the world (link)
Good riddance to the Clinton Crime Family--> I Voted TRUMP…how’s it going for you now Trump is gone? Be careful what you ask for. You may just get it.
Pics from the Hayden 698 transmission oil cooler install w/ before and after temps. Please feel free to ask any questions about how it's mounted and/or plumbed, and here's some general info I got from Hayden before starting this project:
- If mounting horizontally, which is okay per the directions, it doesn't matter whether the incoming fluid flow is into the top or the bottom port.
- The 698's fluid capacity is 1 quart or less, which I wanted to know b/c I'm doing a full drain and fill at the same time I install the cooler.
EDIT: After learning that cooler isn't always better when it comes to transmission fluid (explained here), I added a Derale temperature-activated valve that only allows 10% of the fluid to flow through the external cooler until the fluid temp reaches 180° F, then it opens up so all the fluid goes through the Hayden cooler. This helps ensure the fluid temperature remains optimum based on ambient temperature and other factors that influence transmission fluid temperature. Strongly suggest incorporating this valve now if you plan to add one as it will be much easier to do the valve and external cooler at the same time.
I used two of the pass-through fasteners from Hayden to attach the cooler to the a/c condenser at the top, which is tricky and involves long needle-nose pliers and patience. Standard heavy-duty zip ties anchor it to the crosspiece at the bottom. It's solid and doesn't move at all.
Plumbing - I ran the provided 11/32" hose from the lower radiator outlet to the top of the Hayden. Had to buy more - make sure it's 11/32" transmission oil hose - to reach from the bottom outlet of the Hayden to the fluid return line. (I recommend buying this in advance as I ended up having to purchase it locally and ended up getting, well, hosed.)
This view is looking up from underneath:
I sliced some used leftover hose to create protective "sleeves" where the hose passes near brackets and to cover sharp edges at the pass-through, and stuck some adhesive padding at another spot, all to protect against chafing.
Before/after at 65-70 after ~1 hour of driving with similar outside air temp:
After ~1 hour off-roading, mostly in 4HI with some 4LO mixed in:
The Good: Parts are well-constructed from high-quality materials; communication was good.
The Bad: Overall, a disappointing experience as a customer due to shipping errors.
The Ugly: Poor design of the crosspiece where it bolts to the driver's side frame makes it a solid 8.5 on the PITA scale.
I ordered the transfer case skid on 9/3/21. Shipment arrived on 10/15/21, a little later than expected based on the lead time RCI gave me but close enough. But when I tried to install the crosspiece, it did not fit. The parts come in separate boxes. They are not marked as to vehicle fitment, nor are the boxes. The dimensions are not on their website, and the photos on the website are the exact same for the 4th & 5th Gen t-case skids even though the parts are different sizes. So there is no way to know you got the wrong parts until you try to install them.
Called RCI, they asked a few questions, and discovered they had mistakenly sent a 5th Gen part. A partial mea culpa here, it didn't occur to me (or them, when I called) that the skid itself might also be the wrong one. RCI sent out a new crosspiece and a return label. The new crosspiece arrived on 10/29/21. I installed it a few days later and found that it's poorly designed. I don’t know what others’ experience has been, but I would give getting the driver’s side crosspiece installed a solid 8.5+ on the PITA scale b/c it’s so tight to the fuel tank skid. Bring your patience and a hammer.
So next I tried to install the skid itself and that's when I figured out that it was also a 5th Gen part. Again they shipped a replacement and again I have to box up their mistake and send it back. Finally got the 4th Gen skid on 11/20/21.
I thought RCI might be willing to offer some kind of goodwill gesture given the time and trouble caused by their error...nope.
In hopes it will help others, here's how to tell 4th Gen from 5th Gen:
The bolt hole on the end of the crosspiece is centered on the 5th Gen, as shown here. On the 4th Gen part, it's offset to the rear.
For the skid plate itself, here's a side-by-side. These are standing on their sides so the measurements are front edge to rear edge. The 4th Gen plate is several inches longer and comes with a hardware bag containing spacers that are used the ensure it clears the exhaust. (Note: I should have had both arrows pointing to the right since the front edge of both pieces is on the left. I regret any confusion.)
Installation tips:
1. Get out your floor jack if your have one and use it to hold the parts up while you bolt them on. No jack? Block them up with wood or have a helper. These suckers are heavy.
2. The passenger side frame bolt replaces the lower factory bolt for the exhaust hanger, so that hole is relatively clean. But the driver's side bolt hole is unused from the factory so it's likely got rust, dirt, and whatever else in it. If I was doing this over again, I would use compressed air to blow out the driver's side bolt hole then either spray some Fluid Film in there or put some anti-seize on the bolt - something to get the bolt in there a little easier. I ended up cranking it a quarter-turn or so at a time (tough to get a wrench in there) using so much force I was worried about breaking off the bolt.
3. More pics/info:
The spacers look like this and fit at the front where the tubes attach.
Slide the spacers in from each side. They're designed to fit between the downturned edges of the flanges on the tube ends, like this, sandwiched between the tubes on the top and the skid on the bottom.
Here's how the 3 rear bolt holes line up with those in the crosspiece.
Recently installed a Derale temperature sensitive valve that bypasses my Hayden external transmission cooler unless the fluid temp tops 180° F. Thanks to
@Drcoffee
for posting on this method of ensuring the transmission fluid isn’t overcooled. Be sure to follow the instructional diagram (attached below) that shows how to place the valve so the fluid goes through the appropriate side before and after the external cooler.
This was a while back but I just got the writeup done. Installed aftermarket full-spray washer nozzles. The swap itself couldn't be easier. Results? I'd say 4 stars out of 5 b/c with the replacement sprayers, there's a delay, kind of a pulse, when you trigger the switch that squirts out a little washer fluid onto the hood (see video below), then the full spray comes out and covers the windshield. Does the job nicely once it gets going but the fluid on the hood may bother some users. Some pics and notes:
Here's what you get, the nozzles, gaskets, and a screwdriver for adjustments.
It comes oriented vertically, like this:
Use the small flat-head screwdriver to rotate it 90° so it's horizontal and also tilt it up as far as possible (it's not tilted up yet in this pic).
Side by side:
Disconnect the hose on the underside of the hood, then remove by compressing the tabs using something that won't scratch the paint. This shows the nozzle partially out during removal.
To install, just press the new washer down into the hole through the new gasket until the tabs lock then reconnect the hose. Make sure the brass nozzle is fully tilted up and check it now and again b/c it's not hard to move it, for example if you're wiping down the hood after a car wash, etc.
Spray:
Leftovers, probably not any worse than with the factory nozzles:
I installed switched engine bay lighting on my ’07 Sport a few months ago and finally got a chance to finish the write-up. Thanks to everyone who has posted on how to do this; I've tried to find the exact thread that gave me the idea and guidance and my best guess for credit is
@ElectroBoy
, who has a nice write-up in the 5th Gen section.
I didn’t want the LED strip to turn on automatically so I added a rocker switch. Mounting it here on the radiator shroud looked like the most convenient place.
Use a small, regular bit to drill a pilot hole then go to the ¾” keyhole bit to make the opening. Smooth the edges with sandpaper or a file, something I hadn’t done yet when I took the pic.
The installed switch looks clean.
Here's where to place the strip. Wipe the metal down first with alcohol on a rag to help ensure the best adhesion.
Run the wires through the wrap then route the wrap under the hood pad. I brought it out at the driver's side rear corner and used a zip tie to secure it there, then tucked and/or zip tied it along the inside top of the fender up to where the wires connect to the switch, battery, and ground.
The switch prongs, from left to right in this pic, are:
1. Left, dark colored: ground
2. Middle: Battery (constant 12V power)
3. Right: Red wire from the LED strip
It's been a minute so forgive me if this is off, but a black wire and a red wire come off the LED strip and - IIRC - this is how everything connects using the prong numbers listed above. Figuring it out is easy enough if this isn't exact:
1. Run a ground wire off the dark-colored switch prong, splice the black one from the LED strip to it, and connect it with the ring connector to the ground bolt as shown below.
2. Constant 12V goes to the battery; in my case, a Blue Sea Systems fuse box.
3. Connect the red wire from the LED strip to this prong.
Done. This mod is way up there in usefulness and bang for the buck.
Okay, I admit it: I’m OCD about my truck, today’s activity being the proof. I recently saw a post where one of the pics revealed that the DAC button on the console is supposed to light up. My DAC button did not light up, but it does now. 🙂
Replacing the little lightbulb (~$4 from Cobb County Toyota’s online parts store) is an easy 5-minute job, you just pull the shifter trim, unplug and remove the DAC switch, and use a small flat-head screwdriver to turn the bulb 1/4 so it comes out. Replace bulb & follow steps in reverse order. Lit!
Had my fuel sending unit replaced and did the fuel pump for good measure while the tank was out. The video at the end of this post by someone named Rick S. provides an impressively detailed analysis of the issue, the short version being that I recognized a number of the symptoms described have been going on with my truck for years. Recently it started reading 1/4 tank low all the time. I'm keeping this truck forever so I fixed it and wanted to provide some pics and info.
For reference, my 4R is an '07 V6 with ~228K miles.
Cost: Parts ~$283 | Labor $393 with 10% veteran discount makes the total ~$676. Yeah, a lot of money, but probably about a month's car payment on a new vehicle so there's that. Someone comfortable doing the job themselves could do it for about $250 worth of parts (fuel pump kit, fuel sending unit, and the housing with the filter media and even that's kind of optional).
Chokes me to pay the labor but after consideration of the job itself and other things going on, it was worth it.
Parts list. OEM items are from Cobb County Toyota's online store.
8332060440 $ 95.70 GAGE ASSEMBLY, FUEL SENDER
2330050120 $ 37.97 Fuel Filter << This is the housing w/filter media in it
7714435010 $ 33.59 Fuel Tank Lock Ring << Didn't necessarily need
7716904050 $ 6.34 Fuel Pump Tank Seal << Gasket Denso fuel pump & mounting kit - ~$109 from Amazon
Here's a comparison of the fuel sending units and the problem is obvious - the "track" where the end of the float arm moves gets worn away over time.
Old:
New:
Interestingly, the 4th Gen fuel filter has two components. There's the strainer, which I have to say looked pretty clean for the age and mileage.
Old:
New:
Then the housing itself has filter media inside, visible through the hose connections in this pic of the new one. I unfortunately couldn't get a pic of the old one but it was nearly black.
Here's the video by Rick S. Worth watching if you're having these issues or just want a very thorough understanding of the fuel sending unit and how it works.
I actually came across your video on youtube late last week when I was having funky fuel level indicator issues on mine.
The under-hood work light is genius, i love it!
Actually the video is someone else's, I regret not being more clear about that. I'm changing my post to be sure that person gets the credit.
Thanks about the engine bay light. By coincidence, the first trip I took after installing it involved gassing up at 6am at a Sam's where they hadn't even turned on the fuel station lights yet and I needed to check my oil. It was golden.
Just got back from driving all 469 miles of the Blue Ridge Parkway plus Skyline Drive in Shenandoah NP. Loved it but will say that 90% of the Parkway’s “wow moments” are in North Carolina. Aside from a few interesting stops and overlooks, the stretch through Virginia looks like the rural Georgia roads I drive every day.