12-02-2018, 08:14 PM
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#1
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new UCA with suspension install, worth it?
hey, i was looking under my car the other day and noticed the through bolt on either side that attach UCA to car are corroded and bad looking. the control arm itself looks fine and my truck drives great now pre lift. wondering if i should get new uca due to the condition (looks wise) of my oem bolt attachment points...is there a way to refresh that hardware only for an oem uca or do aftermarket JBA come with all the thru bolts needed? thanks. - Tom
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12-03-2018, 10:07 AM
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#2
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uppp
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12-03-2018, 10:36 AM
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#3
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now that i am on a computer to explain better:
my truck will be getting billy/OEM (billys set at zero, OME 895e 883 low combo about 2.5" lift with new pizza cutters on FJ rims) soon, I have everything ready.
I looked at my current setup the other day, which drive great by the way, and noticed
the thru bolts of my oem UCA look horrible - rust etc.
Im wondering if I should prolong the install of my suspension and add JBA UCA to my kit - just doing suspension and UCA all at once.
Does anyone know if new JBA UCAs come with the bolts that hold on my OEM arms or would i have to use the same corroded looking hardware for them - defeating my purpose somewhat. Im not sure if UCA need to be altered or aligned with those bolts etc after suspension or during install, so I am trying to avoid that and replace them if so, but not if it isnt worth it. truck drive great now, aligned, etc. and my new lift doesnt throw me into the 'have to upgrade uca' category.
2004 sr5.
thanks!
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12-03-2018, 10:55 AM
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#4
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Yes the aftermarket arms are worth it. I have the Icons.
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12-03-2018, 11:37 AM
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#5
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Why not just buy new bolts, swap them out, and leave it at that? Surely you can buy them new from Toyota, there might be cheaper aftermarket options too.
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2005 4R Sport 4WD "The last of the V8s!" - Custom TIG'd SS Dual Exhaust - King 2.5" +2 LT. - ARB Front & Rear - 37's - Dana 60 - Build Thread
2005 Tundra 2WD Regular Cab V8 - Chopped Frame - Short Bed Swap
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12-03-2018, 12:05 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm
Why not just buy new bolts, swap them out, and leave it at that? Surely you can buy them new from Toyota, there might be cheaper aftermarket options too.
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i am open to go this route, in searching for replacement bolts i wasnt getting clean hits, maybe ill go through a local dealer and get some quotes for new UCA hardware to give to install shop. does anyone know the hardware part numbers or a diagram so i can track these down?
Thanks
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12-03-2018, 12:15 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hinmo24t
i am open to go this route, in searching for replacement bolts i wasnt getting clean hits, maybe ill go through a local dealer and get some quotes for new UCA hardware to give to install shop. does anyone know the hardware part numbers or a diagram so i can track these down?
Thanks
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Should be 90105-A0095
Lather some anti-seize or grease on the new ones when you install them, helps them from corroding again.
https://parts.olathetoyota.com/auto-...omponents-scat
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2005 4R Sport 4WD "The last of the V8s!" - Custom TIG'd SS Dual Exhaust - King 2.5" +2 LT. - ARB Front & Rear - 37's - Dana 60 - Build Thread
2005 Tundra 2WD Regular Cab V8 - Chopped Frame - Short Bed Swap
1977 Celica Liftback - LFX Swap - Build Thread
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12-03-2018, 12:56 PM
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#8
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2005 V8 Limited. ARB Bumper, ARB Touring rack, Bilstein 5100 with Toytec 3" Tacoma springs, OME 2895's, 255/80 Cooper ST Maxx. TG spacers. JBA UCA.
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12-03-2018, 01:46 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodtheviking
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thanks - i am probably going to order a few of those from your link.
using the diagram from previous post, i was looking to add up all the hardware for each side and i was approaching a few hundred dollars. wasnt sure if the 5's in the diagram included 2 each for the left and right, or if id have to order those x 4. do you know if the bolt and nut from wheelers that you posted would suffice during suspension install despite a rusty bushing or other bolts etc. compared to up in the diagram? id rather be proactive before i am down
a vehicle and using a spare from my family for multiple days.
thanks,
tom
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12-03-2018, 02:09 PM
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#10
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Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hinmo24t
thanks - i am probably going to order a few of those from your link.
using the diagram from previous post, i was looking to add up all the hardware for each side and i was approaching a few hundred dollars. wasnt sure if the 5's in the diagram included 2 each for the left and right, or if id have to order those x 4. do you know if the bolt and nut from wheelers that you posted would suffice during suspension install despite a rusty bushing or other bolts etc. compared to up in the diagram? id rather be proactive before i am down
a vehicle and using a spare from my family for multiple days.
thanks,
tom
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If your upper bolts are rusty, I would imagine the lower bolts and cams are going to be as well. Possibly to the point of cutting them out. I would get those too and soak the old ones with penetrating oil for a few days before you start.
https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-254900...tegory:1337897
I was able to reuse the washers when I did mine, just cleaned them up with a wire brush and put a little anti-seize on the bolt. The JBA uppers I bought had new factory bushings installed so no worries there. I think the new version from JBA comes with the poly bushings now, not sure if its an option for factory bushings..
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2005 V8 Limited. ARB Bumper, ARB Touring rack, Bilstein 5100 with Toytec 3" Tacoma springs, OME 2895's, 255/80 Cooper ST Maxx. TG spacers. JBA UCA.
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12-03-2018, 09:08 PM
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#11
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Banned
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You called your tires pizza cutters. It sounds like you won't need major adjustments from the UCA's.
I would get a new bolt and run the stock arms until you know exactly what you need out of an upper control arm. This is coming from someone who was convinced they would never run 35s. I just chopped up my truck to fit 35s and now I need another new set of UCA'S to fit them. In my case I was the cheap bastard and I'm paying twice now.
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