01-12-2019, 03:30 PM
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#16
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01-12-2019, 03:40 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Dec 2007
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The cost sounds about right. You can just have the boot replaced by a local mechanic but the cost might be just as high, due to the labor of removing the old boot and putting in the new one with grease. The reason why mechanics just replace the whole CV axel is because its quick and easy.
You can also go to a local mechanic and see what they charge for new boots or CV axel.
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01-16-2019, 09:48 AM
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#18
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lolaya
Are aftermarket parts not as long lasting as OEM?
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I've heard both ways but you get what you pay for but it seems to me that the cost of doing just the boots is close to replacing the whole thing so that's what I'll do.
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01-17-2019, 12:29 AM
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#19
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Rocky Mount, NC
Age: 49
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Join Date: Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdc62
I disagree with some of the earlier posts. ThereÂ’s really not very much grease. The metal bands can loosen over time. The inner band on my left half axle became loose and it began leaking grease. I replaced with a new band using a joint banding tool and it has been dry for over a year. The band was less than three dollars and took about 10 min to replace. The tool was about $15. I purchased both on Amazon.
I would ask the mechanic why he thinks it should be replaced. If there is no clear tear and itÂ’s not making noise while turning IÂ’d try replacing the inner band. Good luck!
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I agree. It does not look like much grease has been flung out at all. When mine went, due to a torn boot, there was grease everywhere. It was blatantly obvious. If it was that bad, the mechanics would have told you so. You look to be having some weeping/oozing. You need to get under there and check the boot for tears, rips, etc. You might have just slipped that end of the boot off the groove it seats in. Shoot, you could probably get an OEM band clamp from toyota, and a CV band wrench from an autoparts store and re-clamp it that way...making sure the boot is in it's groove (there's a shallow groove machined into the axle).
If the rubber is not torn or brittle and obviously deteriorating, then a new band clamp, using a worm drive hose clamp, is a viable option, but temporary. The problem with hose clamps is the sharp edges that can cut into the boot rubber which is already weak due to age. You could totally reboot that. It's messy and for slightly less labor you can just put in a replacement. The deal quote sounds about right but is insanely high... such is brand new OEM stuff from the dealer.
A boot kit will run, I think, around $80 from the dealer. What I did was order a re-manufactured one from Toyota. At the time, about 7 years ago I think, it ran me roughly $150 per axle. I could have returned the old ones for a core refund of $50 but I decided to keep them to re boot/rebuild them. I caught my leak quickly (I drove with it torn for only a week max, and probably less than that) so I'm highly confident that the innards are totally fine. I changed both of mine because I figured another boot was probably about to go. You should check around with the parts dept's from a few area dealerships and see what they can get and will charge. When I called, it was like 400 for a new axle and maybe half for re-manufactured. I think I read something about checking to see if there are online discount prices, so I found that parts dept also had online sales and I found they listed re-manufactured axles with a lower price that I got on the phone. I ordered and selected an option to pick up at the counter. Ever since then I've been going to that parts dept and developed a relationship with one of the main guys. He always recognizes me when I come in, remembers I have a 4runner, sometimes remembers my name if it hasn't been too long. They give me "preferred" pricing, or something like that. Just have to ask them if they can help you on the price ( they sell me the WS ATF at $8 a qt when I get a case for a flush... not that I do it a lot) I know people here on T4R have use "village toyota" (in Texas ??? I forget) for online orders and they have good prices as I recall. CVJ after market units have also been used by several members, which I saw mentioned...
You should be able to find several threads about replacing CV axles on T4R. It's actually a pretty easy job. It'll take some time, but not difficult. Look on youtube and you should find several videos. There's a good one by "the last great road trip" where the do/demonstrate a trail replacement on an FJ cruiser, which has the same front end. You'll probably need new axle seals. The CV has to come out and the seal at the diff might get damaged, plus it's got over 100k age... You'll also have to replace the knuckle seal. It looks like the outboard boot, you could probably replace that boot without removing the CV, but you have to take it out of the steering knuckle, and you're crawling all over the ground, and trying to keep the axle from flopping around, cleaning out old grease, putting in new, etc.... better to just take it out and put in on a work bench. Someone did a reboot write up several years ago with pics, etc.
Maybe all that makes sense. Sorry for the Tolkein-esque post. Hope it helps
Bob
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01-20-2019, 01:31 AM
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#20
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Connecticut
Age: 27
Posts: 49
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Join Date: Apr 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob3dsf
I agree. It does not look like much grease has been flung out at all. When mine went, due to a torn boot, there was grease everywhere. It was blatantly obvious. If it was that bad, the mechanics would have told you so. You look to be having some weeping/oozing. You need to get under there and check the boot for tears, rips, etc. You might have just slipped that end of the boot off the groove it seats in. Shoot, you could probably get an OEM band clamp from toyota, and a CV band wrench from an autoparts store and re-clamp it that way...making sure the boot is in it's groove (there's a shallow groove machined into the axle).
If the rubber is not torn or brittle and obviously deteriorating, then a new band clamp, using a worm drive hose clamp, is a viable option, but temporary. The problem with hose clamps is the sharp edges that can cut into the boot rubber which is already weak due to age. You could totally reboot that. It's messy and for slightly less labor you can just put in a replacement. The deal quote sounds about right but is insanely high... such is brand new OEM stuff from the dealer.
A boot kit will run, I think, around $80 from the dealer. What I did was order a re-manufactured one from Toyota. At the time, about 7 years ago I think, it ran me roughly $150 per axle. I could have returned the old ones for a core refund of $50 but I decided to keep them to re boot/rebuild them. I caught my leak quickly (I drove with it torn for only a week max, and probably less than that) so I'm highly confident that the innards are totally fine. I changed both of mine because I figured another boot was probably about to go. You should check around with the parts dept's from a few area dealerships and see what they can get and will charge. When I called, it was like 400 for a new axle and maybe half for re-manufactured. I think I read something about checking to see if there are online discount prices, so I found that parts dept also had online sales and I found they listed re-manufactured axles with a lower price that I got on the phone. I ordered and selected an option to pick up at the counter. Ever since then I've been going to that parts dept and developed a relationship with one of the main guys. He always recognizes me when I come in, remembers I have a 4runner, sometimes remembers my name if it hasn't been too long. They give me "preferred" pricing, or something like that. Just have to ask them if they can help you on the price ( they sell me the WS ATF at $8 a qt when I get a case for a flush... not that I do it a lot) I know people here on T4R have use "village toyota" (in Texas ??? I forget) for online orders and they have good prices as I recall. CVJ after market units have also been used by several members, which I saw mentioned...
You should be able to find several threads about replacing CV axles on T4R. It's actually a pretty easy job. It'll take some time, but not difficult. Look on youtube and you should find several videos. There's a good one by "the last great road trip" where the do/demonstrate a trail replacement on an FJ cruiser, which has the same front end. You'll probably need new axle seals. The CV has to come out and the seal at the diff might get damaged, plus it's got over 100k age... You'll also have to replace the knuckle seal. It looks like the outboard boot, you could probably replace that boot without removing the CV, but you have to take it out of the steering knuckle, and you're crawling all over the ground, and trying to keep the axle from flopping around, cleaning out old grease, putting in new, etc.... better to just take it out and put in on a work bench. Someone did a reboot write up several years ago with pics, etc.
Maybe all that makes sense. Sorry for the Tolkein-esque post. Hope it helps
Bob
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No, thank you and everyone who has helped out! Ive been learning a lot.
Couple questions for you or anyone to answer.
I called my local Toyota service dealer and they don't sell remanufactured. I am going to call tomorrow to see if they have boot kit.
What I am probably going to do is get a CVJ, keep my leaking core, reboot it (since that seems to be the problem) or at least change the seal as its hard to tell without really looking at it closely, and have it for when it fails next. This way I teach myself something new and kinda cool which would be a lot of fun. Also would make it so I don't have to replace other side yet, but be ready for when I do.
A couple questions:
Would a boot kit on an old axle be enough to have it be ready to be placed on the vehicle? What else does CVJ do (other than clean it/replace boot)?
Thank you!
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01-24-2019, 12:56 PM
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#21
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Rocky Mount, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 472
Real Name: Bob
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Rocky Mount, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 472
Real Name: Bob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lolaya
No, thank you and everyone who has helped out! Ive been learning a lot.
Couple questions for you or anyone to answer.
I called my local Toyota service dealer and they don't sell remanufactured. I am going to call tomorrow to see if they have boot kit.
What I am probably going to do is get a CVJ, keep my leaking core, reboot it (since that seems to be the problem) or at least change the seal as its hard to tell without really looking at it closely, and have it for when it fails next. This way I teach myself something new and kinda cool which would be a lot of fun. Also would make it so I don't have to replace other side yet, but be ready for when I do.
A couple questions:
Would a boot kit on an old axle be enough to have it be ready to be placed on the vehicle? What else does CVJ do (other than clean it/replace boot)?
Thank you!
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Well, I think in your case a book kit would be enough. You'd get a better idea once it's off and the old boot removed. Then, you can better tell if there was ingess of water, road grit, etc. thus potentially compromising the joint.
Here's a video showing what the joint looks like.
YouTube
Not sure if I really stated it well in my earlier post, but You'd know it if you've lost a lot of CV grease. It would be all over the place. You'll be cleaning al the old stuff out anyhow. The kit should come with new grease. If I'm not mistaken there will be 2 different kinds, one for the inner joint, one for the outer. What CVJ does? Not sure. I don't know if they re-manufacture or of they have parts build/made for them. I remember a while ago people mentioning slight differences in fit with CVJ's, and any issues that might have been going on could be resolved. I just replaced a front brake caliper with a Napa re-man and the slide pins from my OEM are too big to fit in the re-man caliper, which came with it's own slide pins. You would figure that if it's really remanufactured (which could really only be new boots and seals, and maybe new pistions, maybe some polishing of the bore surfaces... not sure, just a guess) for an OEM, the OEM slide pins would fit. I do know that some videos and pictures I've seen show the inner housing on a CVJ axle looks different than a Toyota. The CVJ was smooth and a Toyota has a sort-of tri-lobed shape. The 3 "tripod" bearings of the inner joint fits into the lobes of the housing. Maybe I can get some pictures if you/someone wants
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01-25-2019, 01:02 AM
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#22
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Connecticut
Age: 27
Posts: 49
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Connecticut
Age: 27
Posts: 49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob3dsf
Well, I think in your case a book kit would be enough. You'd get a better idea once it's off and the old boot removed. Then, you can better tell if there was ingess of water, road grit, etc. thus potentially compromising the joint.
Here's a video showing what the joint looks like.
YouTube
Not sure if I really stated it well in my earlier post, but You'd know it if you've lost a lot of CV grease. It would be all over the place. You'll be cleaning al the old stuff out anyhow. The kit should come with new grease. If I'm not mistaken there will be 2 different kinds, one for the inner joint, one for the outer. What CVJ does? Not sure. I don't know if they re-manufacture or of they have parts build/made for them. I remember a while ago people mentioning slight differences in fit with CVJ's, and any issues that might have been going on could be resolved. I just replaced a front brake caliper with a Napa re-man and the slide pins from my OEM are too big to fit in the re-man caliper, which came with it's own slide pins. You would figure that if it's really remanufactured (which could really only be new boots and seals, and maybe new pistions, maybe some polishing of the bore surfaces... not sure, just a guess) for an OEM, the OEM slide pins would fit. I do know that some videos and pictures I've seen show the inner housing on a CVJ axle looks different than a Toyota. The CVJ was smooth and a Toyota has a sort-of tri-lobed shape. The 3 "tripod" bearings of the inner joint fits into the lobes of the housing. Maybe I can get some pictures if you/someone wants
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Is this what you're talking? This is taken from CVJ's website on how to identify a Toyota axle.
Last edited by Lolaya; 01-25-2019 at 01:04 AM.
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01-27-2019, 07:07 PM
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#24
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Member
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Rocky Mount, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 472
Real Name: Bob
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Rocky Mount, NC
Age: 49
Posts: 472
Real Name: Bob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lolaya
Is this what you're talking? This is taken from CVJ's website on how to identify a Toyota axle.
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yep.
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01-27-2019, 07:27 PM
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#25
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This is a very common issue, and not of significant concern. Once it starts rattling, clinking when turning, etc. then you may want to replace.
I just replaced both of mine using HD CV axles, bought new from RockAuto, cost about $140. Of course, I don't mind replacing every 3-5 years either, OEM may last longer, but I am pretty easy on my daily driver so I expect at least 5 years out of these.
Rebooting may work also, but for $140, provided you have the time and desire, I say replace.
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