[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Today I converted my factory rear air suspension (RAS) to coils. I've seen this done by several other forum members, but I haven't seen a lot of details (and a lot of the pics have broken links). I did not go into extreme detail with pics of each step because there are plenty of write-ups out there showing how to install the rear coils, this is meant to show the parts and added steps needed for a RAS equipped 4runner. Follow this guide at your own risk, I'm not responsible for any issues/damages. I will note that so far I have not had any indicator lights at all, it still shows that it's in the "normal" position. Pictures are at the end of this post. One thing to note is that the RAS equipped 4runners have different rear bump stops than a coil spring equipped 4runner. The RAS bump stops are 2" longer, so you'll have less up travel. New bump stops are around $70 from Toyota, these aren't required but is worth mentioning.

Parts list:
1. Rear coils and any spacers you're planning to use
2. Coil isolators that go on top of the rear coils. These are very expensive from Toyota, approx $120 online where I looked. I found someone selling a set and picked them up there. EDIT: After taking measurements, the Energy Suspension isolators aren't made in the correct size, so it appears OEM is the only option (that I've found).
3. Brackets to hold the coil in place. I went to Home Depot and got a short piece of metal (1/8" thick, 1" wide, 36" long). I cut this to the correct length then used a hammer and large bolt to round off the edges, then drilled a hole in the center (1/4" to fit the bolts I was using).
4. You'll need bolts/nuts to attach the lower bracket. For ease of use, I picked up some toggle bolts from Home Depot. These are the ones I used, I just had to buy a 1" long bolt that would fit to be able to use them. I also purchased a set of washers and lock washers to use on the bolts. EDIT: had trouble keeping these tightened down, even using loc-tite and lock washers. I ended up switching these out to large washers and a lock nut. Just swapped this out, but I'm positive it'll hold much better.
5. Loctite for the bolts holding the brackets in place as a safe measure

EDIT: Before you start, it will be very beneficial to remove the spare tire to make for easier access.

1. Jack up vehicle (I used a floor jack under the rear differential) and place jack stands under the frame
2. Remove tires/wheels
3. Disconnect rear swaybar (I did this by removing the nut at the top of the end links, and left it connected at the axle)
4. Remove the top nut from the rear shocks.
5. At this point, I lowered the floor jack which lets the frame rest on the jack stands and the axle will lower. At this step, watch the brake lines as you don’t want to stretch them. I let the axle droop down all the way and then added a little support using the jack.
6. There is a clip that slides in place on top of the air bag mount. Remove this, it will pull straight out. There is a hole in the end, I had to thread a piece of wire through this and pull to get it to remove (it's a tight space, I couldn't get a good grip on it by hand).
7. There is a clip on the air line hose, remove it (two snaps, one on each side of the line). It will slide back, but the air line will still be connected. You can now pull on the air line and it will disconnect (takes a bit of pressure).
8. The airbags will now deflate and can be removed (I suggest using a zip tie or something similar to tie up the air lines so they're out of the way.)
9. Install the coils/isolators onto the axle. I had no problems fitting these, but if need you can have someone push down on the axle to make more room, just be careful with the brake lines.
10. Attach the brackets to hold the bottom of the coil in place
11. Raise the jack and it will allow the coils to seat at the top. Look to make sure they are seated properly at the top, I had to move mine around a little.
12. Now you’re ready to reinstall the top nut/bushing on the shocks. Jack up the rear axle to put the top mount for the shock back in place.
13. Reinstall the top nut/bushing on the sway bar end link
14. Reinstall the tires/wheels
15. Remove jack stands and then lower/remove the jack

Here are the parts (I also had a Daystar 1.5" spacer and OME trim packer on hand to correct the driver side lean, I ended up just using the OME on the driver side).


Brackets to hold the coil in place:


Bolts used to hold bracket:


Stock RAS:




Air bags removed:


Bottom mount:



Top mount:


Coils installed:


Bracket installed:


End result:

[Bossman]

Thanks so much for sharing this step-by-step write-up with photos

I'm not that confident in my backyard mechanic skills to attempt this, but will be sure to share this info with my mechanic when the time comes that the RAS totally fails (like the XREAS did!) and I need to go to coils.

Thanks again!

[soundstudio315]

Finished it mine up this weekend. Here is my version.
Also used a 1/2" grade 8 nut on the bottom instead of toggle bolt (not shown).

[sonerick]

Good work man. So how's the ride compared to with RAS?

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Originally Posted by soundstudio315

Finished it mine up this weekend. Here is my version.
Also used a 1/2" grade 8 nut on the bottom instead of toggle bolt (not shown).

That was my initial plan, but after looking at the lower mounts I decided the toggle bolt would be much easier for me to use.

Originally Posted by sonerick

Good work man. So how's the ride compared to with RAS?

Thanks! It's about time for an update...I've put ~300 miles on it since the swap. Overall I'm happy with the ride, but it's still not exactly where I wanted. Over rough sections of roads and several bumps that are close together it does much better. Around here there are tons of cracks across the road and I have about 15-20 speed bumps I cross daily. In these areas there's not a huge difference. If I hit the speed bumps at an angle instead of straight on, it's much smoother than before. Overall it was well worth the swap, although I'm considering a lighter coil in the rear to see if that smooths out the bumps.

Everything is holding together fine, although all my driving has been on road since the swap. Hoping to hit some trails this weekend, if I get to go I'll post another update.

[97BlackAckCL]

Very cool, I always love to see what you're working on. Nice work

[soundstudio315]

Originally Posted by ARK_SWAMP_RIDER

That was my initial plan, but after looking at the lower mounts I decided the toggle bolt would be much easier for me to use.

Yeah it was harder that I thought but went faster then expected...if that makes any sense haha

[martini]

ARK_SWAMP_RIDER, the springs provide 2" lift over stock (I know you had airbags but for the rest of us) right? Also what's the spring rate of the rear springs compared to superflex or stock rear springs?

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Originally Posted by martini

ARK_SWAMP_RIDER, the springs provide 2" lift over stock (I know you had airbags but for the rest of us) right? Also what's the spring rate of the rear springs compared to superflex or stock rear springs?

I don't have stock numbers from my 4runner, but I've compared to a few in the parking lot and it looks like I got about 2.5" out of the rear coils. Since I'm using a 4runner with stock coils for comparison, that should be similar for you.

Here are the coils rates based on what I've seen posted. I can't say for certain that these are 100% accurate. All numbers are approximate.
Stock Coils: 180lb/in
Superflex coils: 200lb/in (10% stiffer than stock)
OW Coils: 215lb/in (20% stiffer than stock)
OME 895 coils: 260lb/in (45% stiffer than stock)
OME 896 coils: 315lb/in (75% stiffer than stock)

[martini]

Thank you!

[settytb]

My only concern is the strength of that toggle bolt... I guess if your shocks are properly limiting the travel you should be ok but if that were to drop pretty hard and fast I'm worried that the toggle bolt is the weak link. But, that's an awesome write up. I would probably throw a couple beefy washers with a big nut, although it looks pretty tight under there... Nice write up and as always you are a great source of knowledge ark.

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Originally Posted by settytb

My only concern is the strength of that toggle bolt... I guess if your shocks are properly limiting the travel you should be ok but if that were to drop pretty hard and fast I'm worried that the toggle bolt is the weak link. But, that's an awesome write up. I would probably throw a couple beefy washers with a big nut, although it looks pretty tight under there... Nice write up and as always you are a great source of knowledge ark.

I agree, it is the weak link. However, there is never any direct force applied to the bracket or toggle bolt. All it does is keep the bottom of the coil from moving around. I have no concerns with it holding up. Gravity will keep the coil on the lower mount, the bracket is just there to keep it from moving. The top doesn't actually attach to anything, so with a hard drop the only potential issue would be it matching up to the upper mount. As you mentioned, proper shocks should prevent this from happening. It probably wouldn't hurt to do some testing on that though.

It was hard enough for me to get the toggle bolts in there, no way I would have gotten a couple washers and a nut on there. The toggle bolts I used are pretty beefy, no doubt in my mind they'll hold. I've been on a couple off road trips and everything has held together perfectly. Time will tell, but I can't see where it would ever be an issue.

[soundstudio315]

ARK - I'm developed a squeaky suspension and needed to remove the rear 1.5 daystar spacers I installed so during the reinstall, I made sure to lube and torque everything, I could find a number on. I'm going to chase it down by spraying lube in one area at a time until I find it. The odd thing is that it didn't squeak right away, always seems that it's a day after? Any ideas?

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Originally Posted by soundstudio315

ARK - I'm developed a squeaky suspension and needed to remove the rear 1.5 daystar spacers I installed so during the reinstall, I made sure to lube and torque everything, I could find a number on. I'm going to chase it down by spraying lube in one area at a time until I find it. The odd thing is that it didn't squeak right away, always seems that it's a day after? Any ideas?

Hard to say really. Does it do it all the time or just occasionally? Did you install the upper isolator in the coils? Only other thing I can think of is the bottom mounting plate since it appears to be metal on metal contact.

[soundstudio315]

Originally Posted by ARK_SWAMP_RIDER

Hard to say really. Does it do it all the time or just occasionally? Did you install the upper isolator in the coils? Only other thing I can think of is the bottom mounting plate since it appears to be metal on metal contact.

It's not squeaking at everything moment, but say when you get in the car or roll off the driveway.

I did use an OEM isolator at the top and even lubed it up where it make contact with the upper spring mount.

Was thinking about it that plate, but how did is that spring on the plate vs the spring on the metal lower spring mount?

Guess I'm going to have to chase it down with spray lube part by part.