2008 4Runner Parking Brake Warning Light & ABS Light Flicker Simultaneously - Page 4 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

AuSeeker · 02-24-2019, 01:50 PM

I did a little Youtube searching for R&R of the Abs ECU, while I didn't find one for our 4th Gen T4Rs, I did find one for a Camry, which is a bit different since the ABS pump and ECU aren't attached to the master cylinder..BUT the ECU
and removing it sorta looks very similar to me but not looking at our's ECU in front of me so I could be wrong on how similar the R&R will be, but it does give a good idea of how it attaches which I don't think would be much different than how ours would attach, IMHO.

YouTube

Now that being said and posted he doesn't state anything about a Zero Point calibration nor does he show that it solved any issues that the Camry had.

sant6236 · 02-25-2019, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AuSeeker

If you haven't ordered a new switch yet, first try and get some electronic spray cleaner to pentetrate into the switch while repeatedly manualy pressing and releasing the switch which may clean whatever is causing it to make contact and lighting the brake light, removing the switch will help get more cleaner into it.

I tried the CRC cleaner on both the harness and connector sides of the brake fluid level sensor &abs/skid control ecu. No change.

sant6236 · 02-25-2019, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AuSeeker

I did a little Youtube searching for R&R of the Abs ECU, while I didn't find one for our 4th Gen T4Rs, I did find one for a Camry, which is a bit different since the ABS pump and ECU aren't attached to the master cylinder..BUT the ECU
and removing it sorta looks very similar to me but not looking at our's ECU in front of me so I could be wrong on how similar the R&R will be, but it does give a good idea of how it attaches which I don't think would be much different than how ours would attach, IMHO.

YouTube

Now that being said and posted he doesn't state anything about a Zero Point calibration nor does he show that it solved any issues that the Camry had.

Thanks for this...interesting. Might be worth a shot buying the entire MC with the ECU on Ebay. As of now, it really doesn't make sense for me to do anything, as I have zero symptoms aside from the lights flickering simultaneously and intermittently. If it fails, I wont have ABS or traction control...(I think) and I can make a decision from there. Thoughts?

AuSeeker · 02-25-2019, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sant6236

Thanks for this...interesting. Might be worth a shot buying the entire MC with the ECU on Ebay. As of now, it really doesn't make sense for me to do anything, as I have zero symptoms aside from the lights flickering simultaneously and intermittently. If it fails, I wont have ABS or traction control...(I think) and I can make a decision from there. Thoughts?

As long as you're not having any issues with your brakes then holding couldn't hurt...BUT you may want to try and do the Zero Point calibration, it can hurt anything and you never know it could possibly solve your issues even if it's temporary, what the calibration does is put everything back to the orignial starting point for the ECU.

sant6236 · 02-26-2019, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AuSeeker

As long as you're not having any issues with your brakes then holding couldn't hurt...BUT you may want to try and do the Zero Point calibration, it can hurt anything and you never know it could possibly solve your issues even if it's temporary, what the calibration does is put everything back to the orignial starting point for the ECU.

I'm a little reluctant to perform ZPC given I have the DAC and would require an additional step 5.

I dont want more lights coming on...ha!

sant6236 · 08-05-2019, 06:41 PM

An additional symptom now accompanies the ABS and Brake Light simultaneous flicker. The RPM's on the Tach will Bog down approx. 1000 RPM after the initial engine start up (approx. 50 seconds after engine starts). Has been happening intermittently ONLY in the morning as it goes through its engine warmup cycle. The rest of the day is fine, but lights will still flicker intermittently when brake pedal is applied. What the hell is this!?

sant6236 · 08-20-2019, 11:41 PM

I had a local auto repair shop officially diagnose the problem. It's the ABS/Skid Control module, AKA., ABS solenoid...just like we thought. Cost $436 to officially diagnose and $1,066 for part from Mcgeorge. Will cost $100-$200 to install. Alot of $$, but better than being raped at the dealer for $3,500 for entire MC assembly or trading in and buying a new car and getting raped 10 times over.

Fyi..I bought the master cylinder, with reservoir & ABS solenoid together as it was cheaper than just buying the abs solenoid alone. if anyone is interested in a brand new oem master cylinder or brake fluid reservoir with integrated sensor, let me know. Will fit 2006-2009 4Runner.

sant6236 · 01-07-2020, 06:34 PM

this ended up being a bad ground that was producing all of my symptoms. the ground was in engine bay on the driver side near the battery. The bolt that was securing the ground was cross threaded...

Dr. Taha · 07-14-2023, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sant6236

this ended up being a bad ground that was producing all of my symptoms. the ground was in engine bay on the driver side near the battery. The bolt that was securing the ground was cross threaded...

Could you please show the side with a photo, & how you fix it?

AuSeeker · 07-15-2023, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dr. Taha

Could you please show the side with a photo, & how you fix it?

The person you're quoting/asking this question hasn't been on the forum for over 3 years so he probably isn't going to see your post nor answer

It seems he referring too the ground connection from the battery to the fender, the bolt attaching the ground cable to the fender wasn't tight enough because it was crossed threaded.

If your issue is similar , i.e. a bad connection, you need to remove the bolt attaching the ground cable to the fender then clean the contact area on the cable eyelet and the contact area on the fender and then reattach the cable.

Dr. Taha · 07-15-2023, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AuSeeker

The person you're quoting/asking this question hasn't been on the forum for over 3 years so he probably isn't going to see your post nor answer

It seems he referring too the ground connection from the battery to the fender, the bolt attaching the ground cable to the fender wasn't tight enough because it was crossed threaded.

If your issue is similar , i.e. a bad connection, you need to remove the bolt attaching the ground cable to the fender then clean the contact area on the cable eyelet and the contact area on the fender and then reattach the cable.

Thank you sir, i will try it and get back to you.

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