I promised a review on the Auxbeam vs Xenon pro so here goes...

For lows I am now using the Auxbeams and I am really impressed and happy with them. Although the XenonPro bulbs are "brighter", they don't have good projection characteristics and really suffer when put into a projector housing.

For the highs I kept the XenonPros because they really ~shine~ bright here (lol). Obviously with them being in the reflector housing side of the headlight it is much too bright to drive with them while other are on the road ahead of you. But it you need something stupid bright while traveling dark country roads at night (like I do quite often), then these are the highs for you.

Since I bought the Auxbeam highs and am not using them because they don't even hold a chance against the XenonPro highs as I have now found, I was unsure with what to do with them...But I ended up putting them into my fog light housings and they do great there.

All the color profiles are pretty much identical to me.

I also included some pictures of the low beam bulbs side by side. The quality seems solid either way. You can't really see from the pic, but the XenonPros have 4 sides of LEDs whereas the Auxbeam only use 2. Hence the XenonPros doing better in the reflector yet not in the projector.

I also finished up the mod for allowing all lights to be on at once. Highs, lows, and fogs. And WOW is all I have to say about that lol...

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Great post. Got my '06 Sport last April and one of the first things I did was upgrade all my lights, interior included, to LED. The only ones I didn't were the DRL, based off of everything that I read that indicated it wasn't possible without modifying the 12 pin flasher relay. But now I find this and I want to give it a try. So since the seller is out of stock on the DRL/Front flashers, would it be safe to assume a similar option would also work? Something with a built in resistor, similar to the link product? I can't for the life of me figure out how to contact the seller. Thanks again for the post!

Absolutely. All you need is the resistor built in. I would try the following. Looks to be very similar to the vehicode. Concerns about running these as DRL’s are unfounded. Literally zero issues with mine. The heat theory was essentially debunked if you scroll back in this thread.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTK7JNX..._TSI0CbKJRMGZC

Thanks. I was looking at those as well. I did manage to find Vehicodes website and I reached out to them to see if they are planning on restocking/reselling the ones you linked. No word back, but I will post back if they do ever reply. Thanks again for the post!

No prob. Happy to help!

That’s exactly why I didn’t upgrade my DRLs, even though I really wanted to. I hated the thought of hacking up the wiring, adding extra relay circuits, etc., and losing DRL altogether, just to have LED turns simply wasn’t an option I’d consider. Like formidable said, there are zero issues with heat, or anything else. They work, and look fantastic, and are very bright. The main reason I wanted to upgrade was because the yellow coating on halogen bulbs always fades over time on these vehicles because they stay on all the time, so the heat fades them. This shouldn’t be the case the the LEDs. The ONLY concern I have is what the longevity will be since these are on the time, unlike most LED replacement bulbs, where they only get intermittent use, so they last nearly forever. These were totally worth the cost though, so hopefully they’ll stock them again!

Yeah, I agree. I ordered a different pair (the ones linked a couple posts above) and unfortunately they do hyper flash. I believe the listing was advertised incorrectly as having load resistors and/or having the appropriate wattage. So I am returning them. Still have yet to hear back from the other seller on if they'll be restocked.

If you guys don't mind me asking, what did you pay for the bulbs that are out of stock? I've found multiple others on Amazon that claim no hyper flash ($20), and another that advertises built in load resistors but cost $40 for the pair. I'm wondering what a fair price is. I debate in bypassing the ones that are $20 for those that have the built in load resistors but not sure it's necessary? I'll post some links of what I've found, if you guys can give me your opinions that'd be great!

$20 for 4 bulbs

Similar to the above

$40 option


Thanks guys!

I found these, same brand, same description, 1,000 less lumens (which is still more than enough). I think I'm going to pull the trigger and test them out. Worst case scenario I have to send them back to Amazon. They'll be here Friday and I'll post back the results!

To answer your question, I believe I paid like $29.99, or thereabouts for mine, but they weren’t the same as the out of stock ones. I have an ‘04, converted to the ‘06 headlights, so the sockets for my DRLs are the wedge style 3156 bulbs. I’m not sure just having resistance alone is enough. The ad for the ones in this thread stated that they were CAN/BUS compatible to work with later model vehicles like ours, so they may have some circuitry other than just a simple resistor, it not sure on that, all I know is they work and saved me all the wiring headaches, and/or loss of DRL function. I wonder if you could just buy the wedge style sockets to use with yours? Do your sockets unplug from the harness like the older ones?

Well I did find some of the same brand that were linked in the OP. Same description. Same built in load resistors. Just 1,000 less lumens, which is fine with me. I'm getting them tomorrow and will install as soon as I get them to see if they work. If not I'll explore other options. For the blinker lights it's just the socket that unplug from the harness. So that's another option I could explore but I'm confident the ones I ordered will work, at least that's what I keep telling myself. I'll post back tomorrow after install on if they work or not. Thanks guys!

Well, as promised I said I'd let you guys know about these lights I bought. Installed the passenger side 1st as its the easiest. Turned the vehicle on, worked great. No hyper Flash. DRL retained. tested a minute or so. Moved on to the driver side and it was a pain in the ass to get the socket out. I have large hands on top of it. SO I did what I didn't want to do and removed the battery to get more access. Tried and tried to get it out and couldn't. I ended up taking out the headlight assembly (good knowledge for future but that sucked) to discover whoever last replaced the bulb had somehow screwed up the grooves and so it was just jammed in there. With a pull of some pliers i was able to pop out the socket and put the bulb in.

Of course before I put it all back together I test it. Blinker works as it should. DRL works as it should. Passenger side still working. Put everything back together. Start the car everything still works, test it for another minute, no issues. turn car off, put tools away, wash hands, cover cuts. Go back to car, start it to re-run setup on my stereo (since I removed the battery) when I notice the driver's side light starting to dim, then go bright, then dim, back to bright, then almost like a flashing, then out completely. Then right side just goes out. Then comes back but only 3 or 4 of the square lights (forgive my lack of terminology) are on. The other LED's on the bulb aren't illuminated. Wont flash when I turn my blinker on. Zero light on driver's side at all.

So looong story even longer, I'm back to my halogen bulbs. I don't think there's any way both bulbs failed within minutes and getting the same pair would yield different results. I believe these lights will not work, even if I were to get a new pair. So I'm back to square one, Unfortunately. I'd avoid the lights I posted in this comment, unless you want to see if you receive similar results. Hope that helps someone.

Hey Guys, Sorry for all the posting, certainly didn't want to take over your thread, Formidable.

I just wanted to give an update on some different bulbs that I tried for the blinkers/DRL. I've been running them for 3 days and haven"t had any issues with them yet. They are a bit odd because of their length and the actual load resistor box, but they claim they're for DRL retention so I decided to try them. Like I said so far so good.

The resistor box does get hot as hell, but it feels to be the same temp regardless of if you've driven an hour or 10 minutes. I used super high tech temperature measurement in the form of my fingers/touch. So it certainly not an exact measurement. But I am less concerned with it getting hotter and hotter the longer I drive it.

The bad news, however, is that the 1156 bulb is now out of stock. But I wanted to post anyways to let you guys know another option that is currently working for me and fingers crossed it's restocked. Formidable, thanks for the OP again!

Going to try the low and driving. My only concern is during foul weather (snow, ice) driving the OEM lamps stay clear of ice and snow due to the heat produced. I'm concerned that won't be as clear.

Just went through a pretty bad winter here in Utah and didn't see any noticeable difference or sub-par performance with mine. Lots of driving during blizzards, sleet, etc. I don't have the exact same low and highs that were posted in the OP. For reference this is the brand I have been using for highs and lows since May of last year. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B079KB7Q..._LN13CbD37RNCY

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

I installed the reverse lights last weekend and the fogs, low and high beams with the Auxbeams yesterday. So far so good. Much brighter than the stock bulbs, which my aging eyes couldn't deal with anymore.

Hopefully, they all continue to work well. Thanks for this thread and everyone's input.