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Old 03-23-2019, 11:28 AM #31
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Caution

While I like the idea you should definitely drop your pan and clean your magnets. It takes time but is the right way to do it. There are several posts and people damaging their transmission doing a flush without dropping the pan and cleaning and magnets on Tacomaworld.com When I dropped mine it had over 100,000 miles. There was a lot of debris on the magnets and all that would've been flushed into the valve body doing this procedure. You can absolutely wreck your transmission if that happens.

Last edited by Benny123; 03-24-2019 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 03-26-2019, 02:54 AM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny123 View Post
While I like the idea you should definitely drop your pan and clean your magnets. It takes time but is the right way to do it. There are several posts and people damaging their transmission doing a flush without dropping the pan and cleaning and magnets on Tacomaworld.com When I dropped mine it had over 100,000 miles. There was a lot of debris on the magnets and all that would've been flushed into the valve body doing this procedure. You can absolutely wreck your transmission if that happens.
Is this true? Doesn't seem to me you're introducing any abnormal pressure spikes that would dislodge debris that is on the magnets.
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Old 03-26-2019, 06:43 AM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeffe View Post
Is this true? Doesn't seem to me you're introducing any abnormal pressure spikes that would dislodge debris that is on the magnets.
I believe hes referring to the power flush with the machine that the dealer does. In that case, yes, it can be more harmful than good for an older trans. With the DYI methods talked about on here, all you are doing is replacing old worn out fluid with new. Still not a bad idea to drop and clean the pan though, if youre going through the trouble and expense of a fluid swap. To me not dropping the pan is similar to doing an oil change without changing the oil filter...
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Old 03-26-2019, 08:16 AM #34
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Since the fluid is not returning to the system the same time it is exiting, would this not potentially introduce air into the system and result in improper levels?
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Old 03-31-2019, 09:08 AM #35
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System Will Purge Itself of Air

I just did this yesterday and was shocked/thrilled about how quick/easy it was. Sure I had to make a trip to the HW store to get some parts for the job but total cost was <$10 and it didn't take much time to find everything.

I swapped in 8 fresh qts of WS and a tube of shudder fix. The old fluid was black (190K miles) and as of the last 2qt flush I did the fluid had returned to a dark red even though 4 qts of the original were still in the system.

Not only was it a quick/clean/easy way to do this without even having to get on the ground my truck was shifting/driving MUCH better right away. Before the ATF swap I'd get the "shudder" after every gear change. Upon the first test drive it only did it around 40mph. The more I drove it the better it got. I only put about 15 miles on the thing before the shudder was completely gone. I can imagine it'll get even better with time.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanRunner651 View Post
Since the fluid is not returning to the system the same time it is exiting, would this not potentially introduce air into the system and result in improper levels?
When I did this yesterday and was filling the system from a funnel I had hanging above the engine bay I thought the same as you about introducing air but as I poured in the ATF I could see it was forcing the air back up out of the funnel so Im positive it was all purged out.
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Old 03-31-2019, 09:12 PM #36
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Did this fluid exchange today on my 2006 T4R V6 with 207,000 miles (i dont know if it has ever been changed).

I used 3 gallons of the Valvoline Max Life. By the time I was done with the third gallon, the return line had nice looking clean fluid coming out.

No noticeable difference in drivability, but the peace of mind is priceless.
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Old 03-31-2019, 10:24 PM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azgold View Post
Did this fluid exchange today on my 2006 T4R V6 with 207,000 miles (i dont know if it has ever been changed).

I used 3 gallons of the Valvoline Max Life. By the time I was done with the third gallon, the return line had nice looking clean fluid coming out.

No noticeable difference in drivability, but the peace of mind is priceless.
What did the old fluid look like?
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Old 03-31-2019, 10:48 PM #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Streetfighter View Post

the science: the return line goes back to the transmission towards the pan, the fluid out of the tranny comes from the TC side,

Just to be clear on this the 'return line' is the one at the top of the radiator?

I did this on my 2010 Sienna and one fella had a YouTube video that was so easy to follow because it's right at the top of the radiator.

My thought is do the initial drain and fill, then the flush through the return line, and then do one more drain and fill to be sure I have the proper amount in the pan because I'm not gonna go through the measuring the temperature and opening the drain tube. I change the filter 2 summers ago and probably put on 3000 miles So I don't think I need to do that.
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Old 04-01-2019, 12:39 AM #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluesky 07 View Post
What did the old fluid look like?
It was very dark, and smelled a bit, but it was still liquid. Likely worn out and may not have the cooling or lubrication properties that the new stuff does.

I doubt it has ever been changed, or at least I cant find it in any service done to the vehicle through the dealer anyway.
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:03 PM #40
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Thanks for this! just did this today as I was having some jerking and weird revving despite having the filter done last year. Turns out they must have only refilled the pan which is only 4 quarts out of the 14. I used valvoline maxlife and it is amazing the difference this makes. The shifts are like butter now
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Old 05-15-2019, 09:45 PM #41
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This is a cool idea. I didn't know this could be so simple.
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Old 05-17-2019, 01:00 AM #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Streetfighter View Post
If you don't want to get under the truck to do this, read on!
If you do want to get under the truck with a cheap pump killing yourself, stop reading! JK

sold my 2004 v8, did this exact thing through the trans cooler and drove 100k miles on valoline maxlife full synthetic. when the truck sold, there was no leaks and the transmission shifted smooth with no issues.

Just got a 2008 garage kept v6 sport and the truck had a bad shudder at 40mph and anything up hill at low rpms. downshifts were rough, hard hitting. overall it drove like shit. over 150k miles with the stock fluid!

There are plenty of posts out there but so many argued the type of fluid and method. I am not here to do that, just sharing what I did.

1.5 hours total time. I did an oil change, plugs, and air filter while it siphoned, also watched a movie... it was a good time.

Every issue disappeared INSTANTLY. shifts like a brand new truck.

original oil was nasty as hell. I think the truck was used for some towing.

you need some clear hose
you need a metal fitment to go in the radiator cooler hose, i used a male and female air tool nipple. worked great

the science: the return line goes back to the transmission towards the pan, the fluid out of the tranny comes from the TC side, which makes sense because it needs to be cooled first.
Laying under the truck to pump fluid in with a small pump didn't make sense because the return line goes right to there anyway.

there are methods of heating the tranny to see the level is correct but its a sealed tranny, if it didnt leak, and your measurement is exact, i doubt it would be an issue. It was proven for 100k miles with my own truck.
  1. locate the top cooler line going into the radiator. that is all you have to disconnect in the truck. you do not need to go under the truck.
  2. you need (2) gallon jugs, both need lines that show exactly 3 quarts.
  3. connect a clear hose to the tranny hose that you disconnected, that goes to one jug.
  4. connect another clear hose to the nipple you disconnected the tranny hose from that is on the radiator. its the TOP NIPPLE, NOT THE BOTTOM
  5. add the clear hose and attach it to a funnel, get it high and hang the funnel.
  6. start the truck out the driver window, start the truck, watch the jug fill,
  7. TURN OFF TRUCK right at the third line.
  8. take jug number 2 and fill clean trans fluid up to the third line
  9. start pouring into the funnel.
  10. second time, only do 2 quarts at a time. second line. I did 12 quarts total, fluid was looking good by then. Black to Red with a little black in it.
  11. the siphon takes awhile, but be patient its going to go in no matter what.
  12. Thats it! be patient, be EXACT, and forget about the other stuff. Really no need. its sealed. just exchange and be AMAZED.







How simple is that? one connection, 1.5 hours, and you just did a full out exchange! Good luck.





@Streetfighter - Will this process apply to non-sealed transmission that came in early 2003-04 V6 RWD. Mine has an inlet in engine bay to check the trans. fluid level/quantity. Or could it be more simple for my case?
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Old 07-15-2019, 09:47 AM #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixologics View Post
@Streetfighter - Will this process apply to non-sealed transmission that came in early 2003-04 V6 RWD. Mine has an inlet in engine bay to check the trans. fluid level/quantity. Or could it be more simple for my case?
I was wondering the same thing...I feel like it would since the dipstick tube is above the transmission.
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Old 07-15-2019, 06:43 PM #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pixologics View Post
@Streetfighter - Will this process apply to non-sealed transmission that came in early 2003-04 V6 RWD. Mine has an inlet in engine bay to check the trans. fluid level/quantity. Or could it be more simple for my case?
Yes, the dipstick tube is the right way to refill (and check fluid level at operating temp with vehicle running, parked on level surface). Those of us with "sealed" transmissions can only envy you.
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Old 07-15-2019, 06:45 PM #45
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@Streetfighter - Will this process apply to non-sealed transmission that came in early 2003-04 V6 RWD. Mine has an inlet in engine bay to check the trans. fluid level/quantity. Or could it be more simple for my case?
Quote:
Originally Posted by vastano View Post
I was wondering the same thing...I feel like it would since the dipstick tube is above the transmission.
Ya'll could do the same as Streetfighter did even though ya'll have the dipstick, doing it his way will insure you get all the old fluid out, simply draining it out of the pan will not remove all the old fluid only 1/4 to 1/3 if you're lucky.

That being said checking the fluid level once you get most of the fluid exchanged will be much easier for ya'll since you can check the level with the dipstick, so I would avoid overfilling by a quart or half quart and just add more via the dipstick tube to get the level correct, otherwise you will have to pull the drain plug to drain any excess fluid and that could get a bit messy and you would be just guessing before trying to put the plug back in before you drain too much out and you will have fluid running down your hand and arm while putting the plug back in.
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Last edited by AuSeeker; 07-15-2019 at 06:47 PM.
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