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Old 11-17-2019, 04:53 PM #76
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Originally Posted by AuSeeker View Post
Yes that is one instance that I didn't remember of him using Maxlife on his last fluid change and it stopped his shudder...but since he hasn't reported back who's to know if it "cured" it, he could of use the WS fluid and had the same results and also who's to know what the results would be if he had been using Maxlife when servicing the transmission from the start and in the end had the same issue that prompted him to go with a different fluid for the last reported fluid change, so it would be nice if he responds back to where you recently asked how it was doing on the shudder issue, which still may happen since he seems to still be active but just hasn't been on the forum for a little over 2 months now, but he also doesn't post very much his last post was about one year ago, it would definitely add some good definite info to the debate.
he did report back after about 6 months & said it was doing fine & still going strong. & then chimed in again 6 months later 11/18 & didnt report any issues... im sure if since then in the last year if there was any issues he would have reported it. or he sold the 4runner, or the trans blew up & he doesnt want to report it?? LOL!

way too many what ifs there... but what stands out for me in his example is not like many others who have never changed their fluid & got shudder issues, he reported WS exchanges every 60k since new, then at 185k it had the shudder, so 3 different changes with WS during the life & still had shudder issues kind of raises a red flag on WS & how long it lasts or how "good" it is. but we cant speculate on what caused it or wonder if using maxlife all that time would have changed anything, or another (4th) use of WS... the main thing i take from it is that the trans had a shudder issue on multiple changes of WS, then when he tried maxlife it was gone.

yeah hopefully he replies to my last post asking for an update.
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Old 11-17-2019, 06:04 PM #77
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here is the thread of the guy talking about the reasons toyota changed to WS & some points on why its nothing special & there are many other alternatives today. keep in mind its been 15 years since WS started, all the big oil companies have designed, tested, & upgraded fluids that are as good or better in many ways than WS. just like with any factory part on a vehicle, there is always better quality & performance from some aftermarket parts, fluids are no different.

the OP kinda jumps in & out of the thread so its a long read, but there are all kinds of positive reports from members about using maxlife or other brands, no negatives of actual driving experiences, just a few naysayers saying you have to use WS or else! one member, "bad wolf" whos an engineer makes many good points about how WS is nothing more than an average fluid.

a basic google search on "toyota ws vs maxlife" will give you all the info & reviews you could ever want. ive read until my eyes hurt... & have no reservations or doubts about using maxlife.

WS transmission fluid is garbage . Get it out of your transmission now | Tacoma World

Last edited by firebirdguy; 11-17-2019 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 11-18-2019, 11:47 AM #78
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Originally Posted by firebirdguy View Post
here is the thread of the guy talking about the reasons toyota changed to WS & some points on why its nothing special & there are many other alternatives today. keep in mind its been 15 years since WS started, all the big oil companies have designed, tested, & upgraded fluids that are as good or better in many ways than WS. just like with any factory part on a vehicle, there is always better quality & performance from some aftermarket parts, fluids are no different.

the OP kinda jumps in & out of the thread so its a long read, but there are all kinds of positive reports from members about using maxlife or other brands, no negatives of actual driving experiences, just a few naysayers saying you have to use WS or else! one member, "bad wolf" whos an engineer makes many good points about how WS is nothing more than an average fluid.

a basic google search on "toyota ws vs maxlife" will give you all the info & reviews you could ever want. ive read until my eyes hurt... & have no reservations or doubts about using maxlife.

WS transmission fluid is garbage . Get it out of your transmission now | Tacoma World
how come the dealer can only get to 3 out of 13 quarts for the $97 drain and fill? if i dont plan to do this easy peasy change, and not planning to flush, is the 25% refill worth it in people opinions? this is mostly preventative my girl shifts pretty good but has 143k now and i dont know if its even been changed out (whether only 3 quarts or w.e...?)
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Old 11-18-2019, 04:13 PM #79
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I'm curious to see if anyone has used the Valvoline MaxLife ATF on their 03-04's that calls for T-IV fluid. The SDS for the MaxLife shows that it is very similar to WS in terms of viscosity but I'd be hesitant to use it as a T-IV replacement since it is more viscous along with Toyota claiming that WS is not backwards compatible with T-IV. I wonder how Valvoline pulled that one off...
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Old 11-18-2019, 05:23 PM #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hinmo24t View Post
how come the dealer can only get to 3 out of 13 quarts for the $97 drain and fill? if i dont plan to do this easy peasy change, and not planning to flush, is the 25% refill worth it in people opinions? this is mostly preventative my girl shifts pretty good but has 143k now and i dont know if its even been changed out (whether only 3 quarts or w.e...?)
a drain & fill, which is likely what the $97 service at the dealer is, is only draining whats in the pan, about 3 qts. the rest of the fluid is inside the passages of the trans & the big torque converter. but changing out 3 qts is better than none & does replensih the additives some. then do it again in a few thousand miles to have almost 50% new fluid in there.

i dont think $97 is worth it or a good deal, the dealer will charge close to $10/qt for WS, the rest is labor & will only take them 15 minutes to do it. if you've ever changed your own oil you should be able to do a drain & fill, worst part is refilling the trans but that just takes $2 worth of clear hose & a funnel, or a $6 hand pump & about 20-30 minutes time total.

Last edited by firebirdguy; 12-12-2019 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 11-18-2019, 05:56 PM #81
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Originally Posted by weaves View Post
I'm curious to see if anyone has used the Valvoline MaxLife ATF on their 03-04's that calls for T-IV fluid. The SDS for the MaxLife shows that it is very similar to WS in terms of viscosity but I'd be hesitant to use it as a T-IV replacement since it is more viscous along with Toyota claiming that WS is not backwards compatible with T-IV. I wonder how Valvoline pulled that one off...
i have read about many people using it for T-IV... it is rated for that on the bottle too & gets just as good of reviews as using it for WS. post a new thread asking for reviews or do a search, im sure there are pleanty.

valvoline & many other companies have multi vehicle fluids & are able to because they design them that way from the beginning. toyota does not, they have another company make a specific fluid for specific cars & years etc.

its not valvoline pulling anything off, its almost every major oil company out there that has scientists & engineers that study & design lubrication fluids, & even non major companies, walmart has a very good multi vehicle fluid that is WS & T-IV rated too.

viscosity is just one part of the fluid, just like engine oil, a higher quality usually synthetic can be thinner or thicker than a normal oil & perform just as good or better. for example, a high horsepower v8 engine that calls for a 10/40 weight oil can easily use a high quality synthetic 20/50 that will flow as good as a conventional 10/40 & has better cold pour ratings. also a thinner higher quality 10/30 will also still work fine, just maybe have a little lower oil psi, but because its thinner it will get in & out of the bearings better & cool better. point being, just because maxlife is a little thinner or thicker viscosity rating does not mean it wont work perfectly well in the trans while in operation.

US_Val_ML_ATF_EN.pdf - DocuSign CLM

Last edited by firebirdguy; 11-18-2019 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 12-10-2019, 01:28 PM #82
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Dude you are a Rock Star. This worked like a champ and now it shifts perfectly and goes into 4Hi and 4low 5 times faster.
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Old 12-12-2019, 12:38 PM #83
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Dude you are a Rock Star. This worked like a champ and now it shifts perfectly and goes into 4Hi and 4low 5 times faster.
are you saying you used maxlife in the trans? thats great it shifts good... but maxlife in the trans will have no affect on 4l & 4h, that is controlled 100% by the transfer case, which uses a 75/90 gear lube.
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Old 12-26-2019, 02:09 PM #84
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at 200k miles, regardless of fluid type, it should be changed. toyota even says to change WS at 100k miles in the owners manual & at 60k if you tow or abuse it.

doing a true flush is not the way to do it, flushes use machines to push out the old fluid under pressure & can dislodge debris etc, most dont like that on higher mile cars. doing an exhange simply uses the transmissions interal pump to pump it out of a radiator cooling line then you add more fluid via the fill hole as explained in this thread & many others here & youtube.

i would change it out asap with that many miles, & use whatever fluid you can afford & that makes you feel all warm & fuzzy... but any WS rated fluid will be fine & far better than 200k mile old fluid.
Thank you. I'll have that done immediately. Same for the rear diff fluid change?

Side note: I've noticed that I've lost 1cm of coolant in the past few months (10k miles). I hope this isn't a sign of a future head gasket failure.
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Old 12-27-2019, 12:32 PM #85
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Thank you. I'll have that done immediately. Same for the rear diff fluid change?

Side note: I've noticed that I've lost 1cm of coolant in the past few months (10k miles). I hope this isn't a sign of a future head gasket failure.
yes, i would change the rear diff fluid too. manual calls for 80/90 if you drive in winter temps, but 80/90 or a 75/90 synthetic is what most people use regardless of temps. also change the front diff if its 4wd & the transfer case. both call for 75/90 which is a synthetic. front/rear diffs & x-fer case are very easy to do, buy a hand pump for less than $10 to make filling the fluid easier... & undo the fill plug first to be sure it will come out.

for the loss of coolant, check the radiator upper/lower corners for signs of leaking or dried pink residue, also be sure to check the level at the same temp, usually when fully cooled since hot temps show higher levels than cool. i had a slow reduction of coolant in the reservoir, turned out to be the radiator had a very slow leak that wouldn't leave any drips because the skid plate was catching it. bad head gaskets will usually have other signs like misfires, waterfall sounds behind dash or throw a code for a misfire in 1 cylinder.

hope that helps.

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Old 12-28-2019, 11:34 AM #86
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Tried this out yesterday. Setup was easy, the 3/8 id tube for on the radiator perfectly. Ended up using a 3/8 to 3/8 plastic connector for the line coming from the pump. Picked up the rig last month and it has 208k on the clock, judging by the fluid color it was still original. Luckily not burnt but a very dark cherry color.

Only thing I really have to add is that at colder temps this process takes much longer. Managed to swap 8 quarts yesterday afternoon/evening over about 4 hours. Temps were about 15 degrees F when I started. Things started moving a little quicker once it got near freezing. Also not sure if low temps are impacting the volume of fluid or if I am just low, but after pumping out around a quart and a half I get some air coming out of the line. Once I get the rest of the fluid in today I'm going to check the level see where I'm at. Might reserve two quarts incase I'm low...
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Old 12-28-2019, 11:57 AM #87
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Tagging this for when the time comes on my 4runner.
In the mean time, our Dodge Magnum has a sealed transmission and it's throwing codes. Dealer says "rebuild valve body" (160k miles).
Might try this 'transfusion' (semi-pun). It shouldn't hurt.

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Old 12-28-2019, 12:08 PM #88
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Tried this out yesterday. Setup was easy, the 3/8 id tube for on the radiator perfectly. Ended up using a 3/8 to 3/8 plastic connector for the line coming from the pump. Picked up the rig last month and it has 208k on the clock, judging by the fluid color it was still original. Luckily not burnt but a very dark cherry color.

Only thing I really have to add is that at colder temps this process takes much longer. Managed to swap 8 quarts yesterday afternoon/evening over about 4 hours. Temps were about 15 degrees F when I started. Things started moving a little quicker once it got near freezing. Also not sure if low temps are impacting the volume of fluid or if I am just low, but after pumping out around a quart and a half I get some air coming out of the line. Once I get the rest of the fluid in today I'm going to check the level see where I'm at. Might reserve two quarts incase I'm low...
yeah 15 degrees will make any fluid flow slower, i hate cold but i hate working on cars in the cold even more!

what trans fluid did you use? & how are you connecting the tube to the rad? you shouldnt need a 3/8 to 3/8 connector, just connect the 3/8 tube to the bottom port of the radiator, which is the output from the trans cooler, then run it into a container marked with qts to know when youve pumped out ~2qts. then, the other longer tube runs into the side fill hole of the trans & connect to a funnel up near the passenger fender area. that allows you to fill the trans without a hand pump, if you use a big funnel it will fill about 1qt in 2 minutes, maybe a little slower in the cold.

ive seen guys using extra connectors or adapters & trying to connect to the actual rubber trans lines, the easiest/best way is to connect the 3/8 drain tube directly to the bottom port of the radiator, about a 2ft length is all thats needed to run into the drain container.

& be sure to check the level at the proper temp, use a scan gauge or the on board trans temp light procedure, then let drain to a trickle & youre at the right level.

Last edited by firebirdguy; 12-28-2019 at 12:14 PM.
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Old 12-28-2019, 01:03 PM #89
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yeah 15 degrees will make any fluid flow slower, i hate cold but i hate working on cars in the cold even more!

what trans fluid did you use? & how are you connecting the tube to the rad? you shouldnt need a 3/8 to 3/8 connector, just connect the 3/8 tube to the bottom port of the radiator, which is the output from the trans cooler, then run it into a container marked with qts to know when youve pumped out ~2qts. then, the other longer tube runs into the side fill hole of the trans & connect to a funnel up near the passenger fender area. that allows you to fill the trans without a hand pump, if you use a big funnel it will fill about 1qt in 2 minutes, maybe a little slower in the cold.

ive seen guys using extra connectors or adapters & trying to connect to the actual rubber trans lines, the easiest/best way is to connect the 3/8 drain tube directly to the bottom port of the radiator, about a 2ft length is all thats needed to run into the drain container.

& be sure to check the level at the proper temp, use a scan gauge or the on board trans temp light procedure, then let drain to a trickle & youre at the right level.
@firebirdguy
I'm filling through the top port going into the radiator/cooler and using the fitting to extend the rubber line from the pump to my waste jug. Seemed easier to get to since I didn't get the truck on stands. Definitely planning on checking the levels with my OBD tool/ app and appreciate the heads up.
I went with Maxlife after reading through some of the treads. Might not have been the best choice but the price was right and it seems to be working for folks.
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Old 12-28-2019, 02:32 PM #90
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@firebirdguy
I'm filling through the top port going into the radiator/cooler and using the fitting to extend the rubber line from the pump to my waste jug. Seemed easier to get to since I didn't get the truck on stands. Definitely planning on checking the levels with my OBD tool/ app and appreciate the heads up.
I went with Maxlife after reading through some of the treads. Might not have been the best choice but the price was right and it seems to be working for folks.
ok, ive heard of doing it through the top rad trans cooler port too... but that does make it a lot slower forcing it through the cooler & lines vs a strait shot into the fill hole on the trans. & you dont need the truck jacked up or on stands, there is plenty of ground clearance to lay under & put the tube in the side fill port of the trans... much faster than going through the rad trans cooler & doesnt require adapters etc. but both ways will work.

good to hear you chose maxlife & saved some money... now you know you have synthetic fluid in there that can handle heat better than WS. if the fluid was original at 200k miles, you should notice a nice improvement in shifting feel. report back when you are done so others can see another success story using maxlife.

& the air or gaps in the fluid coming out are normal, mine did that & every youtube vid shows it happening too. just refill the same amount you pump out & on the final fill, use about 1/4 to 1/2 qt more so you can see the full stream turn to the proper trickle.
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