You need to get the codes checked out. Regardless of the amp clamp results, you can't keep throwing alternators and batteries at this or you will eventually burn you vehicle to the ground. Have dashlights been flickering and codes been since you jumped it or was it pre-existing?

The other thing I would think is are you sure your reman alternator is good? They can be seriously hit or miss from a parts store and non uncommon to go through a few before getting a good one. Starts getting really expensive if you start melting OEMs at ~$160 a piece but

Would suggest upping your diagnostic game up with some software like:
OBD2 software for car diagnostic | OBD Auto Doctor

Last option will be a garage or dealer as you might be chasing a ghost or two.

ZiaMan,

Yes I should get the codes checked, and wil try to here soon.

The engine and other lights were pre-exsisting. We might have had the vehicle for two years, but have know it for many more and they have always been on intermittently. More on than off.

The reman alt good? Not really at the moment and possibly not from the start, or was being fried from the start like the others seemed to. Melted in the back just like the past two remans and the OEM one.

It is still kicking though. Right after start up I’m a little above 14V, driving it around 13.6V, above 3000 rpm 12.6V or worse.

Didn’t get the actual fault code # but AA guy read it to me.

Bank 2 system 2 lean

Said same code was in there twice

I do have multiple exhaust leaks including a cracked manifold on the drivers side. Picked up gaskets yesterday and at some point soon I’m going to pull the manifold and have my neighbor weld it if he can. Yes, I know I may only get a year out of it if I’m lucky.
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Also tested the two different positive cables on the way to AA for the heck of it.

Positive cable to fuse box and positive to starter




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Any ideas of what would cause this 20 amp flip? Still dealing with this


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Are you getting negative amperage readings and positive amperage readings without moving the clamp? Are the tile of the clamp touching each other?

Yep, still flip flopping. Not moving/touchingly it between same wire tests.

I believe it’s closed completely, I get similar results every time.


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Well, I guess I spent all this time chasing my tail because of cheap remanufactured alternators.

So, I hopped in the other day and fired it up and the battery light stayed on.

Had short drive so I just kept an eye on my volt meter which started out at good battery voltage and dropping at a good rate.

Ok, now this alt is dead. So before I pull it I charged the battery up and and did another amp clamp run.

No crazy activity! No big draw or flip at high rpm.

Got my 4th one the other day and it’s been working perfectly.

Kinda hard to believe you can get three bad alternators in a row but I guess it’s just shows how crappy these rebuilds are these days.


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I would 100% believe it. My gf's dad had an older camry and we went through no less than 3 alternators ourselves. He refused to buy OEM alt (he's cheap af) and kept going back to Oreillys. I ordered a reman Denso alt for my 4runner though. Rock auto ftw

Yeah, I’m usually one to get OEM replacement for starters, alternators, and such because of their great durability/reliability. But things were really tight cash wise and an extra $250 for OEM just seemed ridiculous compared to auto part store rebuilds. I bought an OEM PS pump last year and still felt butt raped from it.

If I had to do it again, I would have just swapped my battery and brought it home then ordered what was needed to rebuild it


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