03-15-2019, 08:10 AM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techno
Sometimes it takes an hour to just remove one bolt/nut/connector after you've figured out exactly which hand joints you need to dislocate in order to get in there, lol.
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HAHA!! AC compressor, #1 PITA to remove and install.
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03-15-2019, 11:10 AM
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#17
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pittsburgh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waypoint
HAHA!! AC compressor, #1 PITA to remove and install.
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Not fun, that's for sure.
The item I swore the most at was one wiring loom connector between the top of the engine and the firewall. Pretty sure I invented a new insult.
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03-31-2019, 01:17 AM
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#18
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Vancouver, BC
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So I am just going to leave those pictures here as a reminder for people to change their oil on time, unlike the previous owner did.
I ended up replacing the the water pump, thermostat, full chain kit (tensioners, sprouts etc), radiator was leaking, AC compressor was broken, pulley were whistling and the belt was worn. Epic job, hopefully it's the last time I am going inside of this engine.
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03-31-2019, 02:03 PM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andreylights
So I am just going to leave those pictures here as a reminder for people to change their oil on time, unlike the previous owner did.
I ended up replacing the the water pump, thermostat, full chain kit (tensioners, sprouts etc), radiator was leaking, AC compressor was broken, pulley were whistling and the belt was worn. Epic job, hopefully it's the last time I am going inside of this engine.
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That chain definitely can't be blamed on a manufacturing defect...major sludge.
What timing components did you use?
I'm considering dropping the oil pan sump on mine this Summer, still flushing sludge "coffee grounds" out of mine every oil change. Should have done this while I had the thing out of service for the chain project.
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03-31-2019, 03:03 PM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waypoint
That chain definitely can't be blamed on a manufacturing defect...major sludge.
What timing components did you use?
I'm considering dropping the oil pan sump on mine this Summer, still flushing sludge "coffee grounds" out of mine every oil change. Should have done this while I had the thing out of service for the chain project.
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I used Cloyes - the best of non OEM that I could find.
Also considering dropping the oil pan now. Probably should have done it right away. The amount of sludge in the engine was insane, I fear that oil pain might be all covered with the same stuff and I don't want any of it back in the engine.
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03-31-2019, 06:08 PM
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#21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andreylights
I used Cloyes - the best of non OEM that I could find.
Also considering dropping the oil pan now. Probably should have done it right away. The amount of sludge in the engine was insane, I fear that oil pain might be all covered with the same stuff and I don't want any of it back in the engine.
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The sump is easy enough to remove after the skid plate is removed. I've been flushing mine with clean oil through the dipstick tube after the oil drains, with the passenger front & rear tires on ramps to tilt the truck toward the drain plug.
With a paper towel across the drain pan, the pics below show what flushed out after the oil had already drained. Yuck.
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03-31-2019, 07:07 PM
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#22
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@ waypoint
that looks awful but glad to see it's coming out. Did you drop the pan already? I was looking for some instructions online but didn't find any. May be it's my chance to contribute to the club haha
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03-31-2019, 11:21 PM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andreylights
@ waypoint
that looks awful but glad to see it's coming out. Did you drop the pan already? I was looking for some instructions online but didn't find any. May be it's my chance to contribute to the club haha |
I haven't removed the sump yet. I've been using a pump similar to this to push oil down the dipstick tube, with the passenger side tires on ramps as described above. Seems to do a good job of washing sludge out of the pan.
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...ump/750015_0_0
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04-01-2019, 05:35 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techno
I did my chain myself late last year. 4000 miles on the new one so far...
I would say the job is moderately technically difficult and very time consuming. It took me a month of weekends and a few week nights. Dealing with unexpected issues is a pain. For example, I broke one of the two studs at the bottom of the cover and needed to extract that, the crank bolt was a ***** so I had to buy the special tool (wanna buy mine??). Sometimes it takes an hour to just remove one bolt/nut/connector after you've figured out exactly which hand joints you need to dislocate in order to get in there, lol. Proper cleaning of the removed parts easily accounted for a 1/3 of the total time. Dropping the front diff and the oil pan is not necessary and would add lots more time, but would make some steps easier. I did it without removing them.
In the end I'm really happy that I did it and saved thousands on labor costs.  |
Do you have a link to the tool you used for the crank bolt? I found a ghetto way to get mine off. It worked, but I don't want to do it that way in the future.
I have seen sockets that have very thick walls that are supposed to work and I've also seen a handle that bolts into the crank pulley, but I couldn't find one that would work for this engine.
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04-01-2019, 11:12 PM
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#25
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No link. Just find schley tool cheapest somewhere.. I've decided to keep mine, just in case I need it again.
Glad the ghetto way worked for you. I tried to fabricate a bar, tried starter bump method and neither worked prior to getting the tool. Added 3 days to my project.
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04-02-2019, 02:09 PM
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#26
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaber6
No link. Just find schley tool cheapest somewhere.. I've decided to keep mine, just in case I need it again.
Glad the ghetto way worked for you. I tried to fabricate a bar, tried starter bump method and neither worked prior to getting the tool. Added 3 days to my project.
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Yeah 3 days is about how long it took me to get it off as well. Thanks for the tip on Schley tools. I hadn't heard of them before.
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04-23-2019, 11:46 PM
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#27
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Join Date: Apr 2019
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Hi all,
I'm new here, and I know this is probably not the most appropriate thread, but it was the closest I found with recent activity.
Took my 2015 SR5 to the dealer today because the check engine light was coming on intermittently. Dealer says I have a stretched timing chain, and quoted me $6,600 to replace. This seemed outrageous to me, and I plan on calling around for other quotes, but my question is what would be a reasonable quote? I'm not mechanically inclined enough to take this on myself.
Thanks for reading!
-Derek
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04-23-2019, 11:55 PM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ddeyoung
Hi all,
I'm new here, and I know this is probably not the most appropriate thread, but it was the closest I found with recent activity.
Took my 2015 SR5 to the dealer today because the check engine light was coming on intermittently. Dealer says I have a stretched timing chain, and quoted me $6,600 to replace. This seemed outrageous to me, and I plan on calling around for other quotes, but my question is what would be a reasonable quote? I'm not mechanically inclined enough to take this on myself.
Thanks for reading!
-Derek
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Hey man! $6k USD is mad, but it is a dealer after all. You are looking at approximately 12 hrs of labor. I got the kit for $600 CAD which is like $400 USD, so if it is like $100 per hour the reasonable quote would be around $1.5k to $2k.
Last edited by andreylights; 04-23-2019 at 11:57 PM.
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04-24-2019, 01:08 PM
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#29
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Washington
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Join Date: Dec 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ddeyoung
Hi all,
I'm new here, and I know this is probably not the most appropriate thread, but it was the closest I found with recent activity.
Took my 2015 SR5 to the dealer today because the check engine light was coming on intermittently. Dealer says I have a stretched timing chain, and quoted me $6,600 to replace. This seemed outrageous to me, and I plan on calling around for other quotes, but my question is what would be a reasonable quote? I'm not mechanically inclined enough to take this on myself.
Thanks for reading!
-Derek
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Is the 2015 1GR-FE engine that much more complicated than in the 4th gen trucks? It really shouldn't be that hard. Most dealers charge something like $3500 for a full head gasket job on a 4th gen. Doing the timing chain should be less work and less parts to replace. Definitely get other quotes and try to find one in the $1500-$2500 range.
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06-03-2020, 05:26 PM
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#30
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Colorado
Posts: 6
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Which chain kit did you buy? Ah - I see, Cloyes! I'm doing a head gasket and trying to decide if I should replace the timing chain while I'm at it. Definitely not going to spend ~$1000 on OEM.
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