03-13-2019, 04:33 PM
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#1
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DIY timing chain replacement
Ola!
My 07 sport V6 has surprised me with P0016 coda and a stretched timing chain. I have experience with some minor maintenance like rotors and pads replacement etc but nothing as serious as this one. I will have a couple of friends who is going to help out but want to hear your opinions and advice if you have any.
I am planning on also replacing a water pump, thermostat, pulleys, serpentine belt and a broken AC compressor since I am there digging deep.
Luckily there is a nice video on YouTube about this particular job, it should be helpful.
I excited to work on something like that but anxious about my lack of experience. Is there anything I should do/know before I start that will make my life easier?
@ waypoint
had a nice thread about this project as well which was helpful as well! Any tips?
Last edited by andreylights; 03-13-2019 at 04:51 PM.
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03-13-2019, 06:30 PM
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#2
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Chalk up another 2007 1GR-FE engine with timing chain problems. Sorry to hear this. Someone described the project as "just a lot of bolts" and that's accurate, a very tedious job requiring clean surfaces and accurate bolt torques.
I've put ~21K miles on mine since last year's project, and it runs great. If your chain really is elongated, you'll notice an improvement when it's replaced.
Before you tear into it, I'd remove the 4-bolt tensioner cover plate and snap a pic of the #1 chain tensioner showing how far the plunger is extended. Should be approx 1/2" or less. From what I've seen, a chain stretched enough to cause P0016 is in the 3/4" range. If the plunger is extended that far, your diagnostics are complete and off comes the timing cover, etc. If not, it may be something much simpler such as the VVT Oil Control Valve.
Let us know what you find.
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03-13-2019, 07:20 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Portland Oregon and Slow Gin Fizz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waypoint
Chalk up another 2007 1GR-FE engine with timing chain problems. Sorry to hear this. Someone described the project as "just a lot of bolts" and that's accurate, a very tedious job requiring clean surfaces and accurate bolt torques.
I've put ~21K miles on mine since last year's project, and it runs great. If your chain really is elongated, you'll notice an improvement when it's replaced.
Before you tear into it, I'd remove the 4-bolt tensioner cover plate and snap a pic of the #1 chain tensioner showing how far the plunger is extended. Should be approx 1/2" or less. From what I've seen, a chain stretched enough to cause P0016 is in the 3/4" range. If the plunger is extended that far, your diagnostics are complete and off comes the timing cover, etc. If not, it may be something much simpler such as the VVT Oil Control Valve.
Let us know what you find.
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Thank for the tidbit. Another 2007 here P0016 poped up last month. I've watched the youtube videos. I have been trying to decide if I want to tackle it.
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03-13-2019, 07:50 PM
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#4
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Only trouble I had on mine was the crank bolt. Get the fancy $55 tool to remove it. Also, use a Toyota waterpump gasket and Toyota sealant for the timing cover.
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03-13-2019, 08:08 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaber6
Only trouble I had on mine was the crank bolt. Get the fancy $55 tool to remove it. Also, use a Toyota waterpump gasket and Toyota sealant for the timing cover.
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Good point, and that tool is needed to properly torque the bolt during reassembly anyway. I removed mine w/ an impact gun easily...ended up buying the tool at the end of the project just to use the torque wrench to tighten it to spec.
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03-13-2019, 08:11 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by collierunner
Thank for the tidbit. Another 2007 here P0016 poped up last month. I've watched the youtube videos. I have been trying to decide if I want to tackle it.
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I'm hoping the Toyota chain I bought under the superseding part number holds up as well as other Toyota chains. It had different manufacturer markings on the endplates than the factory chain, hopefully a good indicator of correct quality.
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03-13-2019, 08:40 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waypoint
Chalk up another 2007 1GR-FE engine with timing chain problems. Sorry to hear this. Someone described the project as "just a lot of bolts" and that's accurate, a very tedious job requiring clean surfaces and accurate bolt torques.
I've put ~21K miles on mine since last year's project, and it runs great. If your chain really is elongated, you'll notice an improvement when it's replaced.
Before you tear into it, I'd remove the 4-bolt tensioner cover plate and snap a pic of the #1 chain tensioner showing how far the plunger is extended. Should be approx 1/2" or less. From what I've seen, a chain stretched enough to cause P0016 is in the 3/4" range. If the plunger is extended that far, your diagnostics are complete and off comes the timing cover, etc. If not, it may be something much simpler such as the VVT Oil Control Valve.
Let us know what you find.
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Your previous posts have already helped me a lot, it's was one of the first steps of the diagnostic stage to remove the cover to inspect the tensioner which was indeed over extended with a bunch of oil sludge there. Previous owner did a $hitty job with oil changes.
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03-13-2019, 08:43 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gaber6
Only trouble I had on mine was the crank bolt. Get the fancy $55 tool to remove it. Also, use a Toyota waterpump gasket and Toyota sealant for the timing cover.
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I am going to use Aisin pump and thermostat as I read a great deal of good reviews about them. Also thanks for the reminder to use the sealant, I am going to check
@ waypoint
s tread to get a part number, I think I saw it there.
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03-13-2019, 10:56 PM
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#9
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Moorpark CA
Age: 42
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Real Name: Elliott
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OP, what is your mileage?
__________________
2007 SR5 V6 4WD 205k, Titanium Metallic. 5100s, OME 885/895, extended rear links, ST Maxx 255/75 R17 on 17x8s, mud flap delete,TB spacer, Spectre CAI, DRL delete, HCF delete, DAC delete, K&N cabin filter, TPMS bypass, Fog light mod, USB galore, dash cam, LED lights all over, rear bumper lights, cbi ditch light brackets w/lights, atrac off, OBA w/2 gallon tank/hidden hook up, Trailgear welded sliders, Rocksteady skids, custom swing-out, 3⁰, SE hood w/working vent, Sprint booster, JET MAF, Kenwood TM-V71a w/motorized antenna, custom dual battery, custom roof rack/lights, custom TRED mount, external 12v, rear diff breather, pck, Freedom UCAs, custom stereo, Aluminum rad, trans cooler, 240A alternator...for now...
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03-13-2019, 11:03 PM
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#10
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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I did my chain myself late last year. 4000 miles on the new one so far...
I would say the job is moderately technically difficult and very time consuming. It took me a month of weekends and a few week nights. Dealing with unexpected issues is a pain. For example, I broke one of the two studs at the bottom of the cover and needed to extract that, the crank bolt was a ***** so I had to buy the special tool (wanna buy mine??). Sometimes it takes an hour to just remove one bolt/nut/connector after you've figured out exactly which hand joints you need to dislocate in order to get in there, lol. Proper cleaning of the removed parts easily accounted for a 1/3 of the total time. Dropping the front diff and the oil pan is not necessary and would add lots more time, but would make some steps easier. I did it without removing them.
In the end I'm really happy that I did it and saved thousands on labor costs.
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03-14-2019, 01:02 AM
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#11
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Mileage on these timing chains? Oil used and adequate intervals?
I've got 215,000 on the clock with original water pump and chain. Not really excited about taking on either project but I do feel the water pump is a bit of a time bomb.
Suppose I can pull the inspection cover to check the tensioner, had anyone done a write up on this?
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03-14-2019, 11:08 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktom3001
Mileage on these timing chains? Oil used and adequate intervals?
I've got 215,000 on the clock with original water pump and chain. Not really excited about taking on either project but I do feel the water pump is a bit of a time bomb.
Suppose I can pull the inspection cover to check the tensioner, had anyone done a write up on this?
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I got the P0016 code at 120k miles. Regular oil changes between 5-10k. My water pump had a decent leak too.
Inspecting the tensioner is super easy. Literally remove 4 bolts and look inside.
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03-14-2019, 01:03 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techno
I got the P0016 code at 120k miles. Regular oil changes between 5-10k. My water pump had a decent leak too.
Inspecting the tensioner is super easy. Literally remove 4 bolts and look inside.
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That really sucks. I watched this video last night it's pretty substantial amount of work.
YouTube
I hate paying people to do my work but that's a huge project. Guess I'll hold off panic until I inspect the tensioner.
Last edited by ktom3001; 03-14-2019 at 03:08 PM.
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03-14-2019, 04:25 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 81runner
OP, what is your mileage?
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200k km or like 125k miles. Have owned the truck for the past 10k km only, so dont know much about hostory but based on cheap filter and battery the prvious owner proly didnt do oil properly either.
Water pump is leaking as well, pulleys are worn, same with the belt sooo lots of parts.
Last edited by andreylights; 03-14-2019 at 04:28 PM.
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03-14-2019, 08:36 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ktom3001
Mileage on these timing chains? Oil used and adequate intervals?
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Mine had 164K miles on it when I bought it from the original owner, it had set P0016 light at 96K miles. Poor oil change maintenance, anywhere from 20K miles on up to around 30K based on CarFax and Toyota online records.
So I can understand the chain wearing prematurely based on bad maintenance, but I've seen pics of '05 engines with much more sludge accumulation during head gasket projects and the #1 chain tensioner was right on the money...no significant chain elongation. Something must have changed on the 2007 and early 2008 chains.
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