Anyone have baseline dyno sheets they can share?
I have a 07 V6 with mods and want to get a dyno to see where I'm sitting and unfortunately I dont have a stock dyno. I dont really trust what company's selling products say the base dyno is. Hopefully someone on here with over a 100k miles has a base dyno.

Check out tacomaworld, there is quite a bit there, a whole thread with dynos and different mods. A lot more than what’s here on the performance side of things. Careful though, if you have a V6 and ask about power here, you’ll inevitably get the “sell it and get a V8” response.

From what I’ve seen on a few stock 4.0 dyno’s, the HP is in the 190-200 range at the wheels.

I’m curious to see what you’re at though, it looks like you have very similar to what I’m planning on.
I have the AFE intake and Gibson catback right now and I’m just waiting for URD’s next batch of headers to get done and I’ll be getting those along with their MAF calibrator.

I do plan on dyno’ing when I’m done to see where I’m at, but like you, I never did it when I was completely stock. From reading I’ve done, it’s reasonable to see somewhere in the 230-240 range at the wheels with those mods.

Yep, dont want a V8. I'm happy with it. I'm just curious what gains I've made.
You doing the Y pipe too?

I don’t think so, only because the LT headers delete the first set of cats, and the Y pipe deletes the second set. I don’t know if I want to run without any cats at all.
I’m assuming you have an O2 sim? How does that work if you’ve deleted all 4 cats? I thought the sim ran off of the second set of cats? I just haven’t looked into it that in depth yet.

Most on this site seem to feel that Toyota did the best job possible and not tho mess it up.


That said...
N/A Power Gains - Dynos w/Mods | Tacoma World

That’s fair point. And not to turn it into an argument here, but I think there is always room for improvement. Just reading through the tacomaworld performance threads and seeing what a lot of people have done and the gains they’ve seen, proves that there is room to get more power.

A car manufacturer is going to compromise in certain aspects of the vehicle, engine specifically. They need to find the perfect balance of reliability, fuel economy, and cost, among other things.

Adding headers and tuning the engine in some way is going to add power to just about any engine out there. Fuel economy could go down, reliability could go down if it’s tuned too aggressively, and it could cost a lot to do. But power can absolutely be added, it’s just a matter of if that’s important to the owner and if they want to do all of that stuff. For a lot of people it’s not worth it.

I run URD LT's with a stock Y-pipe. After several attempts I have never received any dyno sheets demonstrating or referencing gains with or without the headers. An majority of dyno sheets I see/have seen, were the Y pipe teamed with like JBA headers or DT.

So personally, I'd love to see some before/after with the midpipe if anyone has it saved or linkable.

I'd love to see any before/after for the maf calibration.

I spent time looking for myself before. Wasn't convinced to spend the money on anything else, but I'm real close to grabbing the SC kit an calling it done. Anything else been beneficial for you guys along the way?

I took my AFE intake off an gained back mileage. I also got rid of the vacuum cleaner sounding nonsense whenever I gave it over 20% throttle. I have set my best MPG ever with URD headers opposed to oem manifolds, so as stated, there is always room for improvement.

I have the URD o2 sim. It only goes on sensors. The fronts don't give mil. They probably only control fuel and air, being they are reading direct exhaust gases.
Mods definitely make a difference, but usually more work collectively. Pinch a straw in 2 spots and try to blow through it. Unpinch one and try, unpinch all and tell me what happens....

Engines are just big pumps. More in and more out means more power.

I would love to SC mine one day.

The downstream o2 sensors are placed before the secondary cats. So the rear o2 simulator is only necessary if you remove primary cats. Secondary set is behind the rear o2's and not monitored.

I whole hearted believe there is more HP in these 1grfe motors.

Please keep going.

I did the K&N intake...added noise.
Magnaflow muffler added a growl.

URD MAF CAL seemed to bring it all together.

XTP spacer added a little throttle response...less pedal=more zoom zoom.

More noise is added.

See pic. Screwdriver indicates 2nd set of O2 sensors. They require a sim. You can change y pipe with no issues. If you do headers that remove the front cats you will need to install a sim. In the o2 sensors that reside in the Ypipe.

That's the only reason I want base dynos. So I can get a dyno and compare. To see what actually happened. Instead of speculations.

This is not a arguement about power adders, etc. etc.
I'm not here to argue that point. I will let numbers speak and we will see. I do know I gained approx. 2+ mpg with the headers.... at the expensive of more noise. But it does not bother me. I recently put steel components on and big tires. It definitely made it slower and hurt my MPG substantially so anything I can gain back I'm happy with.