Quote:
Originally Posted by fullerj1
I also recommend the pressure test overnight, it’s a common practice at the toyota dealer as well. Keep it at the radiator cap specification and you’ll be fine.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waypoint
Advance Auto usually has a very nice cooling system pressure tester kit in their loaner tool program. Ensure your cooling system is completely full before testing...don't want air as it is compressible. As stated above, pump it up to the cap's rated pressure and watch it for a few minutes to verify pressure doesn't drop off. If it does drop off, reapply pressure and start inspecting for fresh coolant leaks including the combustion chambers, radiator end tanks, and hose connections. If you're losing pressure but can't find the source, UV dye and a black light can help.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benny123
Ues pressure test is the only way to do it. Needs to be done overnight and up to 24 hours to be sure. That said, may be your water pump, a hose or the radiator causing low coolant.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djpope09
Agreed. If you're losing coolant and think it's a headgasket leak, then the engine should be misfiring at startup. The pressure tester would be a good way to diagnose the problem.
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I got the loaner pressure tester from advance auto the other night, pulled the spark plugs, made sure the coolant was topped off (or at least I thought it was), , poured some UV dye in, cleaned the area where the radiator cap is to be sure to get a good seal, and pumped it up to 15 psi. It started loosing pressure fairly quickly. I'd say within about 15 minutes it lost about 5 psi. It kept going lower and lower, so I released the pressure, pulled the pump off, and it looked like the coolant level in the radiator had gone way down. I checked for leaks in the cylinder, around the radiator, tried to visually inspect the water pump, checked the engine and transmission oil, and all of the hoses. No leak/sign of dye. I figured, the cooling system wasn't burped properly. since I had the spark plugs out and intake/air filter housing out of the engine, I couldn't start it to burp it properly. I just topped it off at the radiator and gently squeezed the hoses and, sure enough, there were air pockets. Topped it off again, burped until I didn't see/hear bubbles, and re-applied the pump and pressurized again. PSI dropped again, but about half as slow as the first time. I took one of those old people audio amplifier things with headphones on, and listened to see if maybe the pump itself was leaking, or maybe there wasn't a good seal at the radiator. Didn't hear any air leaking, but when I had the amplifier near the radiator cap, I could hear quiet bubbles. That made me think that there was still some air trapped. I waited about an hour to see if the psi kept dipping, and it did. I let it get to around 8 psi, and took the pump off again. Low and behold; the coolant level in the radiator had dropped again. I checked for leaks in every possible area again, and there was nothing. Burped it, and more bubbles came out. Topped it off, burped it again, cleaned the cap area, and reapplied pressure. This time, the pressure dropped from about 15 psi, to about 12.5 psi. It was late, so I just left the pump all night (like I had originally planned) and checked it in the afternoon the next day (12 hours later). I was completely expecting the pump to be at 0 psi, but it wasn't! It stayed at 12.5 psi. I checked again for leaks in the cylinders and everywhere else; nothing. I released the pressure, took the pump off, and the coolant in the radiator was a little low again, but not as low as before. Pretty sure it STILL wasn't burped properly prior to pressurizing for the last time. Which might explain why the pressure dropped slightly, and then held.
Didnt intend to write a short novel, but there you go. Don't know if my logic about the air pockets is spot on, but thats what made sense to me.