05-14-2014, 04:51 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
Posts: 549
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
Posts: 549
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VSC light, slip, and Check Engine Light on
Today, right at 90,600 miles, my VSC light, slip light, and check engine lights came on. First thing I did was check the gas cap. It seems to be in good condition with no damage to the seal and it 'clicks' when sealed. However, I noticed the cap wasn't screwed on tight from the last time I filled up with gas a few days ago. I put it on again, but lights are still on.
Then I noticed how easy it is to take the gas cap off. Going to order a new one right now! I really hope that's the only problem. She's been flawless up to now.
I assume from this thread:
Check Engine light & VSC trac and VSC Off - ALL ON
it means I have air getting into the engine somehow? I've seen other threads that mention things such as catalytic, charcoal, air flow sensor circuit board, and air hose leak. If the gas cap fix doesn't work, what things should I check first and how do I go about checking them?
Do I need to reset the light and then see if it comes on again within 35miles, before I go the full diagnostic route and start checking everything?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Last edited by r32; 05-14-2014 at 05:18 PM.
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05-14-2014, 06:15 PM
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#2
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 853
Real Name: John
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 853
Real Name: John
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__________________
2004 V6 2wd Sport - BFG Mud T/A KM 255/75/17, Bilstein 5100’s: front FJ coils, 4" lift spindles set @ .85, rear Metal Tech LT MD coils, SS brake lines, Uniball UCAs, Spidertrax; K&N air filter w/ HCF delete, WeatherTech Liners, dual batteries w/ isolator, inverter w/ 110v outlets, on-board air, satellite radio, custom grill emblem and roof rack; Mods: auto headlights, aux remote reverse LED pods and GY6.35 50w reverse bulbs, rear camera, interior LEDs, VSC, 12v w/ added outlets and windows always on, DRL on/off w/ always on mode, fog/map light, key reminder, TPMS bypass, front wheel liner relocate; de-badged, mud flaps, running boards, resonator, Xreas, front/rear sway bar removed
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05-14-2014, 08:02 PM
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#3
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 9,902
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Elite Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 9,902
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First off, I had the same issue with my gas cap a while back. It would tighten and click fine, but would back-off by itself over time. A new gas cap corrected THAT issue.
But I would recommend you read the linked thread and then go get the DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes pulled so that you have an idea of where to start looking for problems.
The lights just tell you, "Hey! I have a Problem! Pay Attention to me!" they don't provide much more information that that.
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05-14-2014, 10:11 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
Posts: 549
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
Posts: 549
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Thanks for feedback guys. Read the link and some great information there. Upon further inspection of my old gas cap, the o-ring has definitely lost it's structural integrity. I'm really hoping this was the only problem. It's to expensive to go out and drive around for a few hours, so I'll just have to wait and see if that light goes off within the next couple of days as others have suggested that it might...if the gas cap was truly the cause of the problem.
I might head into town too and see of the local auto parts store can pull codes, or maybe I'll just buy one of those scan code readers if they are affordable.
Thanks for the help!
Last edited by r32; 05-14-2014 at 10:26 PM.
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05-15-2014, 07:39 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
Posts: 549
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
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Update
Drove to three auto parts places in town, AutoZone, Oreilly, and Napa. All of them sell scan tools and NOBODY will let you use one to go outside and scan your vehicle. You have to pay to play here in Central California.
Bummer. Looks like I'm going to be buying an OBDII scan tool tonight.
Last edited by r32; 05-15-2014 at 07:45 PM.
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05-15-2014, 08:12 PM
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#6
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Bend, OR
Posts: 9,902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r32
Drove to three auto parts places in town, AutoZone, Oreilly, and Napa. All of them sell scan tools and NOBODY will let you use one to go outside and scan your vehicle. You have to pay to play here in Central California.
Bummer. Looks like I'm going to be buying an OBDII scan tool tonight.
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That is weird, most stores like Autozone, O'Rielly's and Napa tend to have scantools to pull DTCs so they can try and up-sell you "fixes" based off just the DTCs.
Maybe its because you're out in the California Boonies that is Central California? A lot of Bay Area guys don't have an issue.
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05-15-2014, 08:17 PM
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#7
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
Posts: 549
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
Posts: 549
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Yah they looked surprised when I asked if they had one I could go out to the parking lot with. Maybe they've had too many guys drive off with them? That would not surprise me at all.
Either way I need to get to the bottom of my 4Runner issues. I've been reading up on some of your incredibly detailed and helpful threads on everything. Thanks for those!!!
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05-20-2014, 05:42 PM
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#8
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Member
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
Posts: 549
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
Posts: 549
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Update: My lights finally turned OFF after 5 days of driving and about 3/4 of a tank of gas. I noticed they went off yesterday.
I never did find anyone locally that would let me use a scan tool, and I never did buy one due to limited budget right now.
FYI for ADMIN: I received a 'malware' notice after clicking the Post Quick Reply button. Using google chrome and it mentioned something about v8buick.com or something like that. Not sure if it's my browser that popped the notice or my installed ad blocker.
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09-02-2022, 07:21 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: O'ahu, Hawai'i, USA
Posts: 3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: O'ahu, Hawai'i, USA
Posts: 3
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VSC, slip, check engine
Hello and thank you to everyone that posts here. A huge thank you to the creators of this forum. My issue was fixed by reading the thread.
I had and issue with the VSC, skid, check engine lights that came on one day and wouldn’t go out. Read on the thread that it could be a gas cap. Checked my gas cap and it was clearly loose. Tried tightening it to get the two licks. Got the clicks but it didn’t sound or feel right like it wasn’t completely sealed. Searched NAPA, AutoZone and O’Reilly for new gas caps. Went to pick them up but I was skeptical that they would work because they didn’t look the same as the original. Went to Amazon to buy and OEM but saw a cheaper OEM knock off. Bought it, installed it, clicks felt right, filled up the tank then waited. Lights still in after a few hours…after a day…after two days. Then started reading more threads and looking at YouTube vids for a fix. Started looking more complicated. Then I just stared at the wall for another week like FTBS I might just drive this thing into the ocean. On about day ten of the issue I was on my way to the beach and noticed the lights went out. Light stayed out ever since it’s been about two weeks now.
So very successful! Proves that if you work hard and stare at a wall for long enough your issues will fix themselves. I don’t know what the longest time would be before those lights will go out by replacing a gas cap but again mine took about 10 days.
Here’s the video I subscribed to and saved for the day I was ready to re-attack this issue.
(Part 1) How To Fix Your Check Engine, VSC, Trac Off Warning Lights On - YouTube
Hope you guys found this useful.
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