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Old 04-19-2019, 12:41 AM #1
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Calling all 17x9 -38

Title says it all. I’ve seen 5th gens running these dimensions all day. Anyone in a 4th gen rocking 17x9 -38 SCS’s? I’ve been slowly saving and am finally about ready to pull the trigger on some new wheels. Would love to run this size but I’ve been told it won’t work. I’m running a toytec 3” coilover lift, SPC UCA’s, already have a BMC done. Currently running 17x9 -6 with 285/70R17 Trail Grapplers. What’s the difference in MM from -6 to -38? Only rubs backing out of the driveway on the fender liner. I’m willing to go further down the rabbit hole in regards to trimming/cutting to make these work. Someone egg me on!

Also pics and what mods did you do to run them? Thanks guys.


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Last edited by montijo505; 04-19-2019 at 12:45 AM.
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:35 AM #2
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That wheel width and offset are very aggressive. They will poke out of the fender flares exactly 1” more than your wheels right now. See the following chart. An easy way to test the fitment without investing 1k is to buy 1” wheel spacers. I think there is a used set for sale right now in the 4th gen specific thread. Push your wheels out 1” and see for yourself exactly what you need to do to make it work. Or... abort ship and sell the spacers for a minimum to no loss.

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Title says it all. I’ve seen 5th gens running these dimensions all day. Anyone in a 4th gen rocking 17x9 -38 SCS’s? I’ve been slowly saving and am finally about ready to pull the trigger on some new wheels. Would love to run this size but I’ve been told it won’t work. I’m running a toytec 3” coilover lift, SPC UCA’s, already have a BMC done. Currently running 17x9 -6 with 285/70R17 Trail Grapplers. What’s the difference in MM from -6 to -38? Only rubs backing out of the driveway on the fender liner. I’m willing to go further down the rabbit hole in regards to trimming/cutting to make these work. Someone egg me on!

Also pics and what mods did you do to run them? Thanks guys.


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Calling all 17x9 -38-4ad7a070-5e39-40df-afd4-3e596a825fd6-jpg 
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:42 AM #3
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Ask the guy selling the spacers what the width is. He didn’t post this info. From the pic they look to be 1” wheel spacers. This is the route I would take before throwing any significant cash at this. Link below.

4th Gen specific for sale thread
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Old 07-02-2019, 12:12 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by montijo505 View Post
Title says it all. I’ve seen 5th gens running these dimensions all day. Anyone in a 4th gen rocking 17x9 -38 SCS’s? I’ve been slowly saving and am finally about ready to pull the trigger on some new wheels. Would love to run this size but I’ve been told it won’t work. I’m running a toytec 3” coilover lift, SPC UCA’s, already have a BMC done. Currently running 17x9 -6 with 285/70R17 Trail Grapplers. What’s the difference in MM from -6 to -38? Only rubs backing out of the driveway on the fender liner. I’m willing to go further down the rabbit hole in regards to trimming/cutting to make these work. Someone egg me on!

Also pics and what mods did you do to run them? Thanks guys.


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Hey I noticed you pulled the trigger on these. I am seriously considering these rims. What are your thoughts on them? Did they end up working out? Do they stick out "too far"? Can you post pics from the side? lol - sorry for the 20 questions.

Thanks!
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Old 07-02-2019, 12:49 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formidable View Post
That wheel width and offset are very aggressive. They will poke out of the fender flares exactly 1” more than your wheels right now. See the following chart. An easy way to test the fitment without investing 1k is to buy 1” wheel spacers. I think there is a used set for sale right now in the 4th gen specific thread. Push your wheels out 1” and see for yourself exactly what you need to do to make it work. Or... abort ship and sell the spacers for a minimum to no loss.
I never understood this chart exactly, can anyone explain it?

By my logic, with an offset of 0mm, the hub mating face should be exactly in the center of the wheel, no? Which should then mean a backspacing of exactly half the wheel width. This chart(among others I've seen), contradicts that. Anyone able to explain?
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Old 07-02-2019, 01:17 PM #6
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Calling all 17x9 -38

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Originally Posted by scottblink23 View Post
Hey I noticed you pulled the trigger on these. I am seriously considering these rims. What are your thoughts on them? Did they end up working out? Do they stick out "too far"? Can you post pics from the side? lol - sorry for the 20 questions.



Thanks!

They are awesome. The finish and quality are great. I didn’t have a hard time getting them to fit, but I had a 3” toytec coilover lift, body mount chop and SPC UCA’s already. That being said, I did install a 1” body lift to help and also set my UCA’s to the farthest position forward to help clearing the body mount. I did have to trim the lower front bumper quite a bit as well. Well worth it.
Calling all 17x9 -38-img_1489-jpgCalling all 17x9 -38-img_1490-jpgCalling all 17x9 -38-img_1488-jpg



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Old 07-02-2019, 02:17 PM #7
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Thanks man - I have a 3 inch OME lift + top spacer, ICON UCAs, No BMC ... where do you think I'd rub?
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Old 07-02-2019, 02:17 PM #8
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The more negative the offset the more the mating surface is pushed towards the back of the wheel. Another way to think about it is the wheel will stick out further from the fender as compared with zero offset. More negative offset wheels also correspond to bigger lips in the front of the wheel depending on wheel design.

If you check 9” wheel on the chart I previously posted and look at -6 offset you will see that when you compare the backspacing with -38 offset you get approximately 1.25”

Just an FYI, there are a TON of videos and explanations online regarding offset and backspacing.

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I never understood this chart exactly, can anyone explain it?

By my logic, with an offset of 0mm, the hub mating face should be exactly in the center of the wheel, no? Which should then mean a backspacing of exactly half the wheel width. This chart(among others I've seen), contradicts that. Anyone able to explain?
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Old 07-02-2019, 02:17 PM #9
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by the way they look awesome!
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Old 07-02-2019, 03:40 PM #10
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Calling all 17x9 -38

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Originally Posted by scottblink23 View Post
by the way they look awesome!


Definitely on the body mount. You’ll have to chop it for sure. It sounds more complicated than it is. Any local welder will do it for around $20-$30 including blocking the hole off with plate metal. Just spray paint it so it doesn’t rust. Also the front bumper on the lower inside edge will need trimming. A dremel is best but I literally used a sharp utility knife.


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Last edited by montijo505; 07-02-2019 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 07-02-2019, 04:44 PM #11
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Thanks man - I've got a CBI front bumper so fortunately I won't have to worry about the front. The BMC doesn't intimidate me.. bring it on!
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Old 07-02-2019, 06:26 PM #12
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Thanks man - I've got a CBI front bumper so fortunately I won't have to worry about the front. The BMC doesn't intimidate me.. bring it on!


Seriously can’t recommend the wheels enough. They look super aggressive. I get compliments every time I drive it.


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Old 08-22-2020, 05:28 PM #13
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Just found this thread, live in Rio Rancho area as well and can't wait to save up and get these wheels! Didnt know how they would look from the side but you posted some pretty awesome shots and I know that I forsure want these!

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Old 08-22-2020, 06:56 PM #14
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Willtheyfit.com is a good site to answer offset questions.
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Old 08-22-2020, 09:17 PM #15
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Just found this thread, live in Rio Rancho area as well and can't wait to save up and get these wheels! Didnt know how they would look from the side but you posted some pretty awesome shots and I know that I forsure want these!

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You're welcome to look at it anytime!

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