I can't find this info (although it may be in other threads, I just can't find it) - how can you tell the size rotors you're needing?
Thanks in advance, my apologies if this is a repeat question

Been covered a bunch here, but you have to look at the casting on the calipers for a definitive answer. I just did this a few weeks back.

And for reference, this post decodes the castings:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1143750-post2.html

Good luck

My calipers don't have the casing numbers on them that I could easily find if at all, I guess they were replaced at some point with some after market Chinese calipers, the way I figured out the size of my rotors was to simply measure them, they will be either 319mm which = 12.5590551 inches, just sightly smaller than 12 9/16", or 338mm or which = 13.3070886, just slightly smaller than 13 5/16", IMHO this is much easier than trying to find the caliper casing numbers on rusty calipers and this is for the fronts only, the rears are the same size on all 4th Gens.

Finally got around to installing my kit and I’m a moron and got the wrong size for the limited. It’s too late to return them and everything seems to line up but the brake dust shield needed to be trimmed and the wheels don’t clear. I have spacers for when I install my lift and larger tires in a few months. Am I missing anything or will I be fine to install the spacers to clear the calipers? Advice needed. Thanks guys

I I took my car to the shop to change the ABS assembly and they give me this part number 47050-35030.
But when I order it to the dealer they said that that part did not fit but still sold it to me.
I own a 2006 4Runner SR5 6 cylinder 4.0.
Did I get screw or that part will fit multiple vehicle?.
I paid $1,900 for that. I hope that will work. I do not know what to do.

you paid $1900 for a part that they told you doesnt fit your vehicle?

sorry i cant confirm if the part fits multiple vehicles, but if the dealer said it wont fit yours i would return it ASAP. call a junk yard or post a wanted ad here for the right ABS unit for your car. you dont need to buy a new part for that.

I did the 5th gen 4Runner brake upgrade front and rear with power stop calipers and 5th gen OEM rotors with Wagner pads. I have been very happy with them, I have not had any luck with the cross drilled slotted rotors in the past. No modifications were needed for this upgrade. I have had them on for a year and no issues at all and it stops great.

I am running 5th gen OEM front and rear rotors with no problems.

I know a lot of people have said that. But, the 5ths are 2mm larger in hub diameter.

I have wondered if there's a minor change between two models that help that 2mm difference. I would say, stick with 4th gen rears so you dont run a risk of needing to throw out a set of new rotors.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Here are the part numbers for the rear rotors that I put on my 06 4runner. 4243160311. You can look them up on the toyota parts website and see what they fit. I don't have a stake in what you use, just letting you know what I used on mine. I did use the 5th gen calipers as well, not sure if that is why it is said they will not fit. But I did my bakes all at once. There for I can not speak to whether or not you have to have the calipers in order to fit.
Here are the part numbers for the front rotors I used. Part Number: 4351260191 Supersession(s): 4351260190. As previously stated I used 5th gen calipers, Power Stop brand to be specific.

The reason people have issues with them (myself included) is because the flange bore is slightly too big and does not allow the rotor to be properly centered thus when it rotates, it catches on the e-brake assembly in the drum.

I also did all my brakes at once. I am using all 5th gen stuff except rear rotors. It works great this way and I don't have to worry about future problems.

Not saying your way is wrong, because it's obviously working for you, but I would never recommend someone getting 5th gen rear rotors after what I experienced.

Searched Raybestos Brakes' online lookup, entered 2012 for the 5th-gen and 2006 for the 4th-gen:

Rear brake calipers
4th-gen has a larger piston, 2"/50.8mm vs 5th-gen's 1.89"/48mm.
All this time I assumed GX470's use the same rear calipers since they're the same 120 chassis as our 4th-gens. According to Raybestos the 5th-gen caliper is also used on both GX470 and GX460, 1st-gen Sequoia, and 80-series Landcruiser/LX450. I wonder if the GX470 is a misprint I'll try remembering to write down the casting #s when I rotate the tires on my folks' GX.

Rear brake rotors
Outside/overall diameter 12.286"/312mm both generations
Bore diameter - looked this up on Autozone, Raybestos didn't have the specs listed - 106mm 4th gen, 108mm 4th gen
4th-gen rotor also used on GX470, FJ Cruiser up to 2009, 1st-gen Seq.
5th-gen rotor also used on GX460 and 2010-2014 FJ Cruiser

Rear brake pads
Same pads for both generations

The 5th-gen rotors' larger bore diameter is what @That_Titanium_4RNR mentioned about the rotors not centering properly.

TL/DR - for best fitment stick with 4th-gen rotors when updating to 5th-gen rear brakes because they have the same overall diameter and thickness. Pads are also interchangeable.

I shelled out the cash for the RR racing big brake kit.

First off, their customer service is garbage and they're pieces of crap, barely qualifying as human and I don't understand how nobody has sued them and taken everything.

Second: Their hub brackets are ALL MISDRILLED by about 1/8-1/4" I didnt measure, I just marked and redrilled.

Third, they send standard fittings and tell you that they match up to your metric fittings. Bunch of morons if you ask me.

I can get the hardline part numbers from NAPA if you want. Napa makes a 6" hardline with the proper metric fittings on one side, and the proper standard fittings on the other. I have a few spares in my glove box. I originally bent my hardlines a little too far and they sprung a leak after a jostle in a snow storm. As it turns out, my rock sliders are the perfect diameter to bend these by hand.

So once you solve all the details that the idiots at RR Racing screwed up:

They are great on a 6000lb plus rig. Stopping distance is limited by tire tread now instead of fading brakes.

I did install their larger banjo bolt on my rear calipers so the rear bites harder, but they are wearing the rear pads a bit faster than I would like. The banjo bolt has a larger hole, it is physically the same size. I DO NOT RECCOMEND the larger bolt, "stainless steel flex lines" option as the fittings are garbage and require way too much force to get them to seal. Also added wear.

I've had zero issues braking with these Wilwood Aero6 calipers. Just know that they don't fit properly and you'll need to head to napa for the proper hardlines. and you'll need a drill press for the hub bracket.

the bleeder valve is 1/4" and sits in its own fitting; a little weird but not a huge problem. It may be covered in paint and difficult to see. it took a few seconds for the fluid to bust the paint out of the hole.

Don't even bother talking to the idiots Simon or Rafi. they're useless and will only blame you for their own shortcomings.

I'm happy with the Wilwood product.

My brother called the owner multiple times on a Saturday and Sunday with issues he had, they overnighted a few parts to fix the wrong ones they sent. So I guess mixed review here too.

What were the incorrect parts? I politely informed them about the standard threads (this was like 8, months ago) that don't come anywhere close to sealing properly when mated to metric threads, and they kept arguing that it's the same. I'm sorry but any dipshit with a sixth grade education can figure that one out.

I then told them that the brackets were misdrilled and they started whining about me redrilling it. "We didn't tell you to do that" no shit Simon, the holes are off I don't need your dumbass to tell me how to fix it, especially when Simon kept arguing that metric and standard threads are the same. For skid plate bolts, sure why not get them standard threads on there and do some light retapping but not for a ****ing brake line. I'm not the only member here with the exact same problem with the high school dropouts at rr racing