06-18-2019, 08:33 AM
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#31
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: 43130
Posts: 53
Real Name: @professorj2
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Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: 43130
Posts: 53
Real Name: @professorj2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by That_Titanium_4RNR
The reason people have issues with them (myself included) is because the flange bore is slightly too big and does not allow the rotor to be properly centered thus when it rotates, it catches on the e-brake assembly in the drum.
I also did all my brakes at once. I am using all 5th gen stuff except rear rotors. It works great this way and I don't have to worry about future problems.
Not saying your way is wrong, because it's obviously working for you, but I would never recommend someone getting 5th gen rear rotors after what I experienced.
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Okay, I will have to take your word on that, as my e-brake stuff was removed prior to purchase, I assume that something was broken when they replaced the axle bearing. I chose not to reinstall/ purchase new e-brake part when I did my brake upgrade.
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06 V8 SPORT, TOYTEC BOSS 2.0 LIFT, JBA UPPERS, DIFF DROP, SWAY BAR DROP & RELOCATE, 2010+ POWER STOP CALIPERS, ENERGY SUSPENSION BUSHINGS THROUGHOUT, URD OFF ROAD Y-PIPE, GIBSON STAINLESS CAT-BACK, URD FUEL PUMP WITH EXTERNAL FILTER, K&N, XD RS3'S NITTO 255/80'S & MORE
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06-18-2019, 08:21 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Kansas
Age: 28
Posts: 4,304
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Kansas
Age: 28
Posts: 4,304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toyrundrive
What were the incorrect parts? I politely informed them about the standard threads (this was like 8, months ago) that don't come anywhere close to sealing properly when mated to metric threads, and they kept arguing that it's the same. I'm sorry but any dipshit with a sixth grade education can figure that one out.
I then told them that the brackets were misdrilled and they started whining about me redrilling it. "We didn't tell you to do that" no shit Simon, the holes are off I don't need your dumbass to tell me how to fix it, especially when Simon kept arguing that metric and standard threads are the same. For skid plate bolts, sure why not get them standard threads on there and do some light retapping but not for a ****ing brake line. I'm not the only member here with the exact same problem with the high school dropouts at rr racing
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Yeah, standard threads vs metric. This was a couple weeks ago. I think something else, not including banjo fittings maybe, but I don't know.
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2005 Tundra 2WD Regular Cab V8 - Chopped Frame - Short Bed Swap
1977 Celica Liftback - LFX Swap - Build Thread
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06-18-2019, 08:51 PM
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#33
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Earth
Posts: 75
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Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Earth
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm
Yeah, standard threads vs metric. This was a couple weeks ago. I think something else, not including banjo fittings maybe, but I don't know.
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Maybe they got their shit together after I told them what I thought.
The reason I was so shitty with them is that I went back and forth for quite a while about the issues referenced on this site. Simon assured me everything would be fine, and it was not. I'm glad I'm not sporting their shitty company logo.
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06-19-2019, 01:38 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,836
Real Name: Ed
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,836
Real Name: Ed
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Not the first time a RR kit had brake fitting or line issues Front Brake Line
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06-20-2019, 07:20 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
Posts: 996
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: MA
Posts: 996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MY06T4R
Okay, I will have to take your word on that, as my e-brake stuff was removed prior to purchase, I assume that something was broken when they replaced the axle bearing. I chose not to reinstall/ purchase new e-brake part when I did my brake upgrade.
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Wow, I thought I was the only “lucky one” who had his e-brake guts ripped out by a prior owner! Unfortunately, testing the e-brake is an essential part of the yearly inspections here in MA, so NOT having it work was definitely not an option. What pissed me off though, was that the car dealer I bought it from obviously did a fraudulent inspection because the car was inspected with a brand new sticker when I picked it up, and because I never use the e-brake on my automatic trans cars, I never bothered to try it until I was checking stuff out right before the sticker was due the following year. Not too much fun to piece back together, when you have nothing to start with!
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2004 black SR5 V8 4WD with TRD dual exhaust, Thorley headers, AFE dry filter, Sprint Booster, Icon 2.0 rear shocks, OME 895E springs, Fuel wheels with 265/70/17 Wildpeak AT3W tires, more to come...
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06-20-2019, 07:36 AM
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#36
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Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: 43130
Posts: 53
Real Name: @professorj2
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Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: 43130
Posts: 53
Real Name: @professorj2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminator03
Wow, I thought I was the only “lucky one” who had his e-brake guts ripped out by a prior owner! Unfortunately, testing the e-brake is an essential part of the yearly inspections here in MA, so NOT having it work was definitely not an option. What pissed me off though, was that the car dealer I bought it from obviously did a fraudulent inspection because the car was inspected with a brand new sticker when I picked it up, and because I never use the e-brake on my automatic trans cars, I never bothered to try it until I was checking stuff out right before the sticker was due the following year. Not too much fun to piece back together, when you have nothing to start with!
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Haha, yes it was great, it was originally just the drivers side that was missing, and when I was doing the brake upgrade, the passenger side was all junk anyways, and it was just easier to remove that then to start all over. And you are right, the dealer clearly "overlooked" the e-brakes. Sad. I am fortunate enough to not have to do any inspections here.
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06 V8 SPORT, TOYTEC BOSS 2.0 LIFT, JBA UPPERS, DIFF DROP, SWAY BAR DROP & RELOCATE, 2010+ POWER STOP CALIPERS, ENERGY SUSPENSION BUSHINGS THROUGHOUT, URD OFF ROAD Y-PIPE, GIBSON STAINLESS CAT-BACK, URD FUEL PUMP WITH EXTERNAL FILTER, K&N, XD RS3'S NITTO 255/80'S & MORE
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08-17-2019, 09:42 AM
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#37
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 610
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Join Date: Aug 2017
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With adding my spare tire carrier, full-size spare, hi-lift, sliders, and skids the additional weight on my oem brakes are catching up. Anybody have anymore opinions on the power stop z36 kit after running it for a few months? Will that kit fit on the oem calipers? For $357 on amazon and the positive comments on this thread, seems like an easy move.
Thanks in advance!
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08-17-2019, 10:40 AM
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#38
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Illinois
Posts: 210
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Illinois
Posts: 210
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I installed the powerstop z36 front rotors and pads (338mm) on my 06 limited 4wd 2 months ago.
After the bedding in process, the braking is light years ahead of the warped factory rotors I took off.
Highly recommend the kit and it bolted straight on with no issues.
Bought mine from Summit Racing and they had it at my door in 2 days vs a week that amazon was quoting and for the same price.
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Metramm
2006 4Runner Limited 4x4 v6
241,000 miles and counting!
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03-17-2020, 05:39 PM
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#39
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 610
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tampa, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metramm
I installed the powerstop z36 front rotors and pads (338mm) on my 06 limited 4wd 2 months ago.
After the bedding in process, the braking is light years ahead of the warped factory rotors I took off.
Highly recommend the kit and it bolted straight on with no issues.
Bought mine from Summit Racing and they had it at my door in 2 days vs a week that amazon was quoting and for the same price.
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After a few months of having the kit, any feedback?
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03-17-2020, 06:04 PM
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#40
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 610
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Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tampa, FL
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Went on the Power Stop website and filled out the questionnaire, and for a 2008 4Runner they recommend:
Power Stop Performance Brake Pads Rotors Kit KC2405A-36
Power Stop Extreme Truck & Tow Brake Kits | Power Stop
With the red powder coated calipers, AutoZone has the rear kit for $341 and Summit Racing has it for $309. I'm going to replace just the rear for now, and will likely do the front in the near future to avoid shelling out $800 for both front/rear.
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03-21-2020, 09:42 AM
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#41
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Colorado
Posts: 17
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Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHagood
After a few months of having the kit, any feedback?
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I don’t think there’s anything wrong with powerstop brake pads. They have good stopping power but the drilled/slotted rotors are a bit of snake oil. Similar with calipers (OEM and aftermarket). 4th and 5th gen calipers have a tendency to seize up over time because they’re made of iron which has a high tendency to rust over.
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