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Old 04-28-2020, 12:46 PM #31
JBend JBend is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techno View Post
Don't waste your time replacing the oil control valves. If they were faulty, you would have a different code.

The first thing you need to check when you have a P0016 code is the timing chain tensioner. On the front of the timing chain cover is a rectangular plate secured with 4 bolts. This is the inspection cover, remove it and see how far the tensioner has extended. If you can see lots of shiny shaft and several 'oil bands', then your chain has stretched.
Start watching this series.
YouTube
Also, here's exactly what the tensioner looks like......
YouTube

Awesome, thanks. The truck runs great, pulls great no hesitation in throttle response, idk if any of those are signs of a stretched chain. I also don't want to think this but am hoping that a dealership is trying to compile more and more things wrong with the car than actually are due to the state of the world. Also can't believe they quote you $70 to change the license plate bulbs 😂 but I got bigger problems than that.
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Old 04-28-2020, 12:50 PM #32
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Mine ran fine for 12 months with the code. But my chain was most definitely stretched when I got around to replacing it.

Btw, the only special tool I needed was the crank pulley bolt remover tool. I still have it....
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Old 04-28-2020, 02:25 PM #33
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Originally Posted by techno View Post
Mine ran fine for 12 months with the code. But my chain was most definitely stretched when I got around to replacing it.

Btw, the only special tool I needed was the crank pulley bolt remover tool. I still have it....

Awesome thanks everyone. Also, the only reason this came up was because on my way to dropping the car off at Toyota last night my dash lights lit up. Engine traction vsc off and the other one. I read that it could just be the gas cap, had them scan for the check engine and they said it was the OCV. So idk if it's the gas cap, Ocv or potential timing chain. I'm not paying for any of it today so just trying to figure what everyone thinks my next step should be.
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Old 04-28-2020, 04:51 PM #34
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Got back from the dealer, the gentleman inspected the timing chain and said everything looked good. They also said both #1 & #2 OCV's looked good, but he recommended changing #1. Just odd. Thankful for the chain being fine. Thanks everyone.
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Old 05-22-2020, 03:25 PM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBend View Post
I purchased an 07' last Monday, fluids being changed and drive belt being changed as we speak...got a call...got this OCV code. I've done some things on a car and my 77' cb750f super sport but never with an engine. How much mechanical experience did you have when you did this? Any special tools you need and is it easy. I'm not worried about time. Thanks.
I have a bit of experience. Ive pulled engines, done headgaskets, clutches, turbos, etc. This was a ***** of a job. Sealing the timing cover was the most nerve racking part because if I didnt get it right, it was about 4+ to remove everything again, clean and reseal. There is a good video series on YT that explains everything from diagnosis to replacement.
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Old 04-27-2021, 01:52 PM #36
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Replacing VVT valves fixes sudden power loss under load

Just some information that might be useful to someone:

My second-hand '05 V6 4Runner (145k) recently was experiencing sudden power losses when accelerating or ascending hills, and loaded. Each time it happened was on extended wildland trips with a lot of gear.

Engine light, VSC Trac and ABS lights would come on. When I pulled over and let ii sit for a few minutes, it would run fine, but the warning lights would stay on.

Two dealerships diagnosed clogged catalytic converters. I had both replaced, with sensors. VERY expensive. (Please don't chime in with shade-tree solutions I could have chosen ...).

Neither shop asked the larger question: Why did the cats clog? As we all know, troubleshooting is the apex of the trade, and not all mechanics are up to it.

It happened again after the second cat (with sensors) was replaced, and again while loaded up and ascending minor grades.

Many hours spent watching YouTube videos addressing the very symptoms I was experiencing led to the conclusion that the problem was dirty and sticky variable valve-timing (a.k.a. oil control) selenoids/valves.

Among the cautions YouTubers noted was that the VVT valves can be VERY difficult to remove, even to the point of having to drill out the centers and using an extractor supplemented by cursing.

An independent shop known for expertise with Toyota trucks ran the usual diagnostic tests, but the warning lights had turned themselves off. They could get no trouble codes. They tested the VVT selenoids, and indications were that they were working. (Key here apparently was that testing the electronic selenoid wasn't the same as testing the mechanical sliding valve it activates.)

I didn't buy those results. So I insisted that both valves be replaced regardless of their test results. Being in the wildland-travel business, I cannot have an unreliable vehicle. (I own three 4Runners due to their usual reliability.) It had to be fixed.

Both valves were difficult to pull out. One broke. Once removed, we found that one valve was completely stuck and likely was not functioning; the other was notchy and sticky, and didn't slide smoothly at all. Both were dirty with that brownish varnish, likely because the previous owner (soccer mom) drove it for short errands and didn't attend adequately to oil changes.

YouTube was right, and we all learned something. The truck is running well now, and reliably. MPGs have gone from 16-ish to over 20 often.

I hope this is helpful.
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Last edited by Byways; 04-27-2021 at 09:09 PM.
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