05-29-2019, 09:14 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Jun 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker
I would try multiple flushings of the engine's oil passages, I would do this myself but you'll most likely have a hard time getting any mechanic at a shop nowadays talked into trying that because of doing the flushing several times and cleaning/draining out any sludge between flushing it is time consuming, but not as time consuming as tearing into the engine, besides most mechanics nowadays have never done such flushings to clear oil passages, this is an old school fix for sludged up engines to get them back to life when they've been neglected on timely oil changes.
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Good idea. I guess it wouldn't hurt to ask about it. The vehicle has had regular oil changes. Not sure where the sludge would come from.
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05-30-2019, 12:01 AM
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#18
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlinrunner
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im parting out a complete running engine from a 05 gx470 here in california. you can come fire it up and drive it if you want to check it out.
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05-30-2019, 06:49 AM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlinrunner
Yes, the mechanic showed me that exact picture in the his shop manual and told me it the issue could be a clogged filter. After cleaning the filter, and replacing the actuator, the chatter was still present but more so since there was no residual oil in the actuator. This and other evidence such as cam wear, etc., lead him to the conclusion the that the oil flow to that side of the engine was restricted. His guess was a piece of a failed oil filter was at fault.
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Good info, bad situation. Blockage of an internal oil passage is a rare thing on properly-maintained engines. If the shop is seeing the engine clean enough to rule out sludge as the cause, then a foreign object (failed oil filter component theory) wouldn't likely be removed by flushing.
Two options to consider:
1) Have the shop replace that head. Rebuilt piece, or a good used one. Lower cost, but higher risk...the obstruction could be in the block's passage, and would still be there.
2) Install a used engine from LKQ that includes a bit of warranty time.
LKQOnline
Last edited by waypoint; 05-30-2019 at 06:57 AM.
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05-30-2019, 11:32 AM
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#20
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Thanks waypoint. I'm really leaning toward the less risky path of replacing the engine. I see mixed opinions here concerning used vs rebuilt; I suppose there are good arguments for both. Any experiences out there with either one?
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05-30-2019, 01:57 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Edmond, Oklahoma
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Look for Sludge
I bought my SR5 knowing it had an oiling problem. First owner leased it for 89,000 and never changed oil. Dealer sold it without changing the timing belt . The second owners changed the oil regularly until 154,000 then sold it when the oil light began flickering. Drop the lower pan and look for sludge. If it has it don't even think about keeping the engine. The front cam bearing oil passages are small and they will clog. No amount of cleaning will clear it out. If it's ok, just change the head.
First picture is the pan, the second is the cam bearing.
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I currently own 4 T4R 4th Gen
#1) 2003 Sport V8 2WD purchased new, totaled @ 175,000.
#2) 2003 SR5 V8 2WD running w/engine from #1(Son#3 is Driving)
#3) 2003 Sport V8 4WD
#4) 2004 Sport V8 Supercharged 4WD
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05-30-2019, 02:28 PM
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#22
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Location: Sacramento CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlinrunner
Thanks waypoint. I'm really leaning toward the less risky path of replacing the engine. I see mixed opinions here concerning used vs rebuilt; I suppose there are good arguments for both. Any experiences out there with either one?
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I rebuilt mine after going to dealer and confirming that literally every year of 2uz-fe is different. If you get a new engine it has to be from the exact same year or you are screwed. I got one quote for 8900, one for 10000 and one shop who had done it before told me to turn around and walk out. The 2uz-fe is the most complicated engine to rebuild that most shops will ever see and the only reason that I was able to do it at all was because I have access to a Toyota dealer's computer system, a PC with my own hacked copy of techstream and the dealers master tech.
So, I have literally done what you are about to do, it took a long time, lots of tools and me buying engine parts from ebay for the exact same year to get everything to fit. Having the techstream PC was a lifesaver during the rebuild, it seems like the 2uz is a computer system with some arbitrary metal pieces attached for show.
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2005 Blue SR5 v8
3" suspension lift, 1" body lift, 315's, rear Elocker, on-board air system, slider air tanks, full skid plates, front Demello bumper, rear HMF plate/tube bumper, rear 9000lb hidden winch, front 10000lb winch, dual electric fans (in cab adjustable temp), rock lights, 25W LED projector lights.
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05-30-2019, 02:56 PM
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#23
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Join Date: Jun 2013
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Thx for the pics! My mechanic has been into the heads a couple of times now and always comments on how clean everything looks in there. I suppose I could ask him to check the oil pan as well, but with regular oil changes every 5-6K miles with Mobil 1 since it was purchased new, I don't expect him to find much sludge, but I could be wrong.
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05-30-2019, 05:45 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 4,644
Real Name: Skip
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlinrunner
Thx for the pics! My mechanic has been into the heads a couple of times now and always comments on how clean everything looks in there. I suppose I could ask him to check the oil pan as well, but with regular oil changes every 5-6K miles with Mobil 1 since it was purchased new, I don't expect him to find much sludge, but I could be wrong.
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Just an FYI, I'm sure your mechanic will know this or he will figure it out, but there are 2 oil pans on the V8, the main big oil pan and a very small oil pan on the big oil pan, the small oil pan is the one Duffdog is referring too and it's very easy to remove and put back on, so an easy job for your mechanic to do for a look see, the main oil pan is not so easy to remove without a lot of work.
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05-30-2019, 07:18 PM
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#25
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Location: Middle TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlinrunner
Thanks waypoint. I'm really leaning toward the less risky path of replacing the engine. I see mixed opinions here concerning used vs rebuilt; I suppose there are good arguments for both. Any experiences out there with either one?
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Got a 70k V8 from LKQ for $700 and it was spotless. I had a performance shop install for 1500.00 without issues.
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2003 4Runner SR5 V8
319k and counting...
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05-30-2019, 08:55 PM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djkurious
Got a 70k V8 from LKQ for $700 and it was spotless. I had a performance shop install for 1500.00 without issues.
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Now that's a number I can live with! Did you get any sort of warranty with that?
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05-31-2019, 01:19 PM
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#27
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Best I could find on LKQ was a 4.7L with 122K for $2000. Came out of a 2008 Lexus 470. Not a lot of 4.7L's to pick from out there so I jumped on it. Here we go...
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06-01-2019, 02:27 PM
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#28
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Circling back to the original engine problem, would putting a higher pressure bypass spring in the oil pump do any good?
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06-02-2019, 10:44 AM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlinrunner
Circling back to the original engine problem, would putting a higher pressure bypass spring in the oil pump do any good?
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It won't correct an obstruction in an oil passage. There's nowhere for whatever's stuck to exit.
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06-03-2019, 04:41 PM
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#30
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: New Hampshire
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Real Name: Mike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by merlinrunner
Circling back to the original engine problem, would putting a higher pressure bypass spring in the oil pump do any good?
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As mentioned, not if it's obstructed. The oil pump is not easy to get to also. Have you tried an oil pressure gauge to see what it's really putting out? I added one which is the only way I knew my pressure bypass was sticking open aside from a flickering light. That engine flush stuff I mentioned fixed that issue.
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03 4runner Limited
1GR-FE V6 w/199k miles
Last edited by MikeinNH67; 06-20-2019 at 04:53 PM.
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