03-20-2018, 04:53 PM
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#1
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Front wheel bearing seal question
Hi, time to replace my front wheel bearings. I have a stupid question (I've replaced the CVs myself, but never wheel bearings so bear with me...)- is there only one seal on the steering knuckle? The CVJ axles came with a seal installed at the wheel bearing side of the axle, and I want to make sure that is the only seal on the knuckle.
I replaced the CV axles about 9 months ago and I'm hoping I don't need to go that deep with this repair, but I want to make sure I replace all seals associated with the wheel bearings.
I've checked parts diagrams and it seems like there is only one seal, but I want to make sure before I tear into it.
Are the seals in the pictures the same? No need for me to knock out the CV to replace a seal on the knuckle?
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03-20-2018, 06:29 PM
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#2
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The part you indicate in your post is the inner seal, which is located on the back side of the knuckle assy.,, it seals against the axle to keep debris out of the bearing from the axle side. Inside the wheel bearing assy., is a 2nd seal, which seals between the hub and bearing from the hub side. The only way to replace the seal in the hub/bearing assy., is to disassemble the hub by pressing the outer hub out of the bearing assy,. If you remove the bearing/hub assy., thee is also an 'o' ring that seals between the hub and the knuckle, and it should be replaced if you are replacing the bearing assy.
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'08 Tundra SR5 5.7 V8 Double Cab, White, Equalizer WD system, '91 Coachmen Catalina 260FK, '89 Grumman GSS w/35HP Force O/B, 8' Snowbear utility trailer, 2012 Polaris 500HO LE in Camo, 7 x 14 TWF Landscape trailer w/2 ramps.
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03-20-2018, 06:41 PM
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#3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TechWrench
The part you indicate in your post is the inner seal, which is located on the back side of the knuckle assy.,, it seals against the axle to keep debris out of the bearing from the axle side. Inside the wheel bearing assy., is a 2nd seal, which seals between the hub and bearing from the hub side. The only way to replace the seal in the hub/bearing assy., is to disassemble the hub by pressing the outer hub out of the bearing assy,. If you remove the bearing/hub assy., thee is also an 'o' ring that seals between the hub and the knuckle, and it should be replaced if you are replacing the bearing assy.
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Thank you. I just wanted to make sure the were just the 2 seals and the o-ring. I’m planning on getting the wheel bearing assembly from NJ636, so that will take care of the inner seal. I’m leaving the seal at the back of the knuckle since I replaced that one less than 10k miles ago.
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03-20-2018, 08:08 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkey Wrench
Thank you. I just wanted to make sure the were just the 2 seals and the o-ring. I’m planning on getting the wheel bearing assembly from NJ636, so that will take care of the inner seal. I’m leaving the seal at the back of the knuckle since I replaced that one less than 10k miles ago.
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As long as you don't damage the seal on the back of the knuckle while removing the bearing assy., you should be good to go.
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'08 Tundra SR5 5.7 V8 Double Cab, White, Equalizer WD system, '91 Coachmen Catalina 260FK, '89 Grumman GSS w/35HP Force O/B, 8' Snowbear utility trailer, 2012 Polaris 500HO LE in Camo, 7 x 14 TWF Landscape trailer w/2 ramps.
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03-20-2018, 08:47 PM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TechWrench
As long as you don't damage the seal on the back of the knuckle while removing the bearing assy., you should be good to go.
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I agree... Unless the seal on the back side of the knuckle is leaking, I would probably just leave it alone! The dust shield between the bearing and the hub may become damaged when pressing on a new bearing but when I talked to a Toyota technician he said this is not really needed and they just discard the dust shield if it gets damaged in the process... The rubber band seal between the bearing and the knuckle should be replaced and is as simple as just sliding it over the bearing into the groove! I put a little bit of lube around it before I placed it in the knuckle and this helped it stay in the groove!
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03-20-2018, 10:31 PM
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#6
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So happy I don’t have to replace the seal at the end of the CV. I always want to the things the right way, but I really wasn’t looking forward to redoing work I did not too long ago.
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03-21-2018, 12:48 AM
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#7
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03-21-2018, 04:13 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokeshow69
I agree... Unless the seal on the back side of the knuckle is leaking, I would probably just leave it alone! The dust shield between the bearing and the hub may become damaged when pressing on a new bearing but when I talked to a Toyota technician he said this is not really needed and they just discard the dust shield if it gets damaged in the process... The rubber band seal between the bearing and the knuckle should be replaced and is as simple as just sliding it over the bearing into the groove! I put a little bit of lube around it before I placed it in the knuckle and this helped it stay in the groove!
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I, IMHO, would disagree with the Toyota technician about the dust shield. It goes a long way toward keeping debris and splashed water out of the back side of the rotor and caliper. I wouldn't replace mine, if they were badly rusted all by them selves, but as long as I have to replace the wheel bearing/hub assy., you now have direct access to the shield and replacing it is very easy. A new shield runs about $50.00, and as long as you already have it apart, why not replace it if it is badly rusted?
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'08 Tundra SR5 5.7 V8 Double Cab, White, Equalizer WD system, '91 Coachmen Catalina 260FK, '89 Grumman GSS w/35HP Force O/B, 8' Snowbear utility trailer, 2012 Polaris 500HO LE in Camo, 7 x 14 TWF Landscape trailer w/2 ramps.
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03-24-2018, 09:19 PM
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#9
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Front wheel bearing seal question
Quote:
Originally Posted by TechWrench
I, IMHO, would disagree with the Toyota technician about the dust shield. It goes a long way toward keeping debris and splashed water out of the back side of the rotor and caliper. I wouldn't replace mine, if they were badly rusted all by them selves, but as long as I have to replace the wheel bearing/hub assy., you now have direct access to the shield and replacing it is very easy. A new shield runs about $50.00, and as long as you already have it apart, why not replace it if it is badly rusted?
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I think we are possibly talking about different dust shields? I am not talking about the one behind the rotor, I am talking about the one that is part of the bearing assembly .... I do agree with you that I would not be running without a rotor backing plate for sure !
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2004 4Runner Sport, white... Weather tech floor mats, 2014 F.J. Cruiser Trail wheels powder coated black, LT 265/70/17 Goodyear duratracs, Retrofit Source HID 9006 kit, Rola Vertex roof basket with extension. Ironman 3" lift springs, Ironman struts and shocks, power slot rotors front and rear, k&n air filter
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03-25-2018, 12:27 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokeshow69
I think we are possibly talking about different dust shields? I am not talking about the one behind the rotor, I am talking about the one that is part of the bearing assembly .... I do agree with you that I would not be running without a rotor backing plate for sure !
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Ok, I was thought you were referring to the metal backing plate, behind the rotor. But, the item you actually seem to be referring to, the dust shield which is in the back of the bearing assy., makes even less sense to me to not replace. If you are replacing the bearings, you are removing the housing that the bearings are pressed into. So as long as it is out, why not install a new rear dust shield (a $20.00 part), before you re-install the bearing housing to the knuckle?
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I can Explain it to you, I can't Understand it for you.
'08 Tundra SR5 5.7 V8 Double Cab, White, Equalizer WD system, '91 Coachmen Catalina 260FK, '89 Grumman GSS w/35HP Force O/B, 8' Snowbear utility trailer, 2012 Polaris 500HO LE in Camo, 7 x 14 TWF Landscape trailer w/2 ramps.
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06-20-2022, 12:12 AM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TechWrench
Ok, I was thought you were referring to the metal backing plate, behind the rotor. But, the item you actually seem to be referring to, the dust shield which is in the back of the bearing assy., makes even less sense to me to not replace. If you are replacing the bearings, you are removing the housing that the bearings are pressed into. So as long as it is out, why not install a new rear dust shield (a $20.00 part), before you re-install the bearing housing to the knuckle?
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TW - what is the part number of the dust seal you were referring to? Can it be installed from the hub side of the steering knuckle? Thank you
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