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Old 06-08-2019, 04:18 PM #1
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Dual Caliper Idea

Any idea on what it would take to mount a second mechanical parking brake caliper in the rear? Wilwood has a caliper that should fit with our width and diameter of rotors; $110 each side. Drifters/racers have mounted second calipers for their ebrake setups before.

My reasoning for this is the stock parking brake system is hard to work on, and it seems it never works all that great even when adjusted properly. I would like a bulletproof setup that I can set on an incline while wheeling in Moab, etc so I can help spot others over obstacles. My brake isn't adjusted properly and is useless right now but for those that have theirs adjusted correctly would it hold on a steep incline if you were to put it in neutral?


Cutting the dust shields and making a bracket that mounts them are the two obstacles I see right now.



Wilwood MC4 Mechanical Parking Brake Calipers - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Wilwood 120-12069 wilwood 120-12070 caliper cable emergency brake

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Old 06-08-2019, 09:11 PM #2
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Not a bad idea. I've been thinking about doing something similar with mine and using the Wilwood combination parking brake caliper. Just need to have brackets fabbed up like the front BBK to make this work.

Wilwood Disc Brakes - Caliper Part No: 120-10111-BK

Another thought I had was to see if the Scion tC rear calipers that function the same way would work with the stock mounting points.
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Old 06-09-2019, 09:23 AM #3
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I love this idea, and wish I had gone this route on mine. When I bought my truck, I never bothered to check the ebrake since I typically don’t use them at all on autos. The problem is that it is required for the state inspection, so I decided to try it about a month before my inspection was due. Of course it did not work at all! Since I coincidentally had a caliper failure a short time after that, I ripped everything out to replace the brakes, and found out that the dealer, or previous owner had stripped ALL the hardware out of the internal brake! The only saving grace was that they looped the ends of the parking brake cables in such a way that they didn’t drag, or wear, so they could still be used. The downside was that I had nothing to look at to see how it went together, or what I was even missing besides the normal springs, shoes, and clips. After a ton of research, I was able to source what I needed between Napa (for the spring/clip kit, and shoes), and the dealer for the rest (like the cast lever arms that were super expensive). I think all in, it would have been cheaper to do the Wildwood setup! The most disappointing thing was that even with ALL new hardware, rotors, etc. it wouldn’t hold my truck stationary at the 1500-2000 rpm they test it at. The day of the test, I ended up having to adjust them so tight that not only could I NOT rotate the wheels while jacked up, but could actually feel the drag while driving, and it still would barely hold it while applying throttle as they do for the test! Fortunately, the tester was a cool guy so I explained that I had spent hundreds of dollars on all new hardware the week before, and this was the best I could possibly get it. He let it slide, I got my sticker, promptly drove back home and backed them off so they didn’t drag anymore! It’s a ridiculous situation though with the factory setup!
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Old 06-09-2019, 10:01 AM #4
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I think the "making a bracket" part is going to be the mountain you have to climb. Interesting idea.
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Old 06-09-2019, 11:35 AM #5
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Recently did a complete brake change, including ebrake. Have it properly adjusted with 5-7 clicks.
I personally wouldn't trust or recommend having it in neutral on a slope.
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Old 06-09-2019, 01:18 PM #6
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Yea I hate the drum brake setup, I think rebuilding it was tougher than cutting the housing for my elocker. But now that my e-brake has new pads and is adjusted it will hold on a decent sloped hill. I always set the e-brake in neutral and then put the runner in park as a backup.


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Old 06-09-2019, 05:32 PM #7
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It does hold to a certain point, ehhh. I see if it had a little movement in that position, it would move.
Again I did a complete replace rebuild on mine.

Then again, seeing your guys photos on your ride, I have a few hundred pounds more trying to hold there.
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Old 06-09-2019, 08:22 PM #8
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Thatís what really bothers me about the inspection procedure here. My ebrake will hold my truck in neutral on an incline, but with the torque of the v8, there is no way in hell it can hold th truck at 1500-2000 rpms like they test it. The test should actually be how the ďparking brakeĒ would actually be employed, such as parking on a downgrade. I had the same issue with my v8 Explorer, even with new parts it couldnít hold under throttle, but would actually work as intended for incline parking.
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Old 06-10-2019, 07:17 AM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminator03 View Post
Thatís what really bothers me about the inspection procedure here. My ebrake will hold my truck in neutral on an incline, but with the torque of the v8, there is no way in hell it can hold th truck at 1500-2000 rpms like they test it. The test should actually be how the ďparking brakeĒ would actually be employed, such as parking on a downgrade. I had the same issue with my v8 Explorer, even with new parts it couldnít hold under throttle, but would actually work as intended for incline parking.
I wonder how brand new vehicles e-brake fair in those inspections or do they have to submit that part of the inspection since they're new?
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:12 PM #10
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Well I picked up a tC rear caliper on the way home. Hopefully I can snag some time this week to scope it out. I'll try and see if it'll work with the 4Runner bracket first and if not the tC bracket. I'd like to know if the banjo bolt is the same between the two before I crack open the line (and waste a set of crush washers...).

The other thing to figure out will be how the 4Runner parking brake cable handles this new setup. I'm assuming that the tC cable is similar to a hydraulic brake line passing through the lower bracket hole and then being held in place with a c-clip.

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Old 06-10-2019, 06:12 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AuSeeker View Post
I wonder how brand new vehicles e-brake fair in those inspections or do they have to submit that part of the inspection since they're new?
Not sure, but thatís a great question. Any new cars we buy, are usually handled at the dealer so the first sticker is already there, and generally since itís still being dealer serviced by the next sticker a year later, we have that done at the dealer as well. Iím the only one that deals with the older stuff since my wife gets a new car every couple of years because of the miles she drives.her 2016 already has more mileage than my 4 runner, lol.
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Old 07-30-2019, 03:23 PM #12
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@Mike07SE any progress?
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Old 07-30-2019, 04:51 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inv4drZm View Post
Any idea on what it would take to mount a second mechanical parking brake caliper in the rear? Wilwood has a caliper that should fit with our width and diameter of rotors; $110 each side. Drifters/racers have mounted second calipers for their ebrake setups before.

My reasoning for this is the stock parking brake system is hard to work on, and it seems it never works all that great even when adjusted properly. I would like a bulletproof setup that I can set on an incline while wheeling in Moab, etc so I can help spot others over obstacles. My brake isn't adjusted properly and is useless right now but for those that have theirs adjusted correctly would it hold on a steep incline if you were to put it in neutral?


Cutting the dust shields and making a bracket that mounts them are the two obstacles I see right now.



Wilwood MC4 Mechanical Parking Brake Calipers - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Wilwood 120-12069 wilwood 120-12070 caliper cable emergency brake

a driveline brake would work better. you get the benefit of differential gearing multiplication, they hold strong. plus, its not JUST the rear tires.
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Old 07-30-2019, 05:46 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevada View Post
a driveline brake would work better. you get the benefit of differential gearing multiplication, they hold strong. plus, its not JUST the rear tires.
I've looked into that too, but I haven't found a kit for our t-case. That and I'll need to see how much room we have with the center diff lock actuator.

I've also considered a line lock but because it uses the existing brake fluid system it wouldn't help at all during an emergency blown brake line.
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Old 07-30-2019, 08:58 PM #15
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How about I design my own backing plates? I just realized the only functions the backing plates do is hold the caliper and hold the parking brake system/springs, and guard the rotor from rocks.

Maybe get it machined from a single block by a local shop, and have provisions for two calipers.

Here is the Yota part:



What my part would look like:

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