I just installed my Dobinsons 2.5/1.5" lift, Wildpeak A/T3W 275 tires, and followed it up with an alignment. I have stock UCAs. Full details below, if needed.

I am asking because when driving, it seems like the 4Runner doesn't seem to want to stay in the lane. It is not noticeably pulling one way or another, but it seems like it is more difficult to keep it tracking straight. Most of the driving so far has been on highway or multi-lane roads. When I look at the 4Runner parked on a flat surface + steering straight--it appears the passengers side wheel's camber is angled a bit more than the drivers, but the numbers don't seem to reflect this.

Wondering if you guys would give advice on the resulting numbers:


The guys at the shop seemed pretty reasonable and were recommended by the local America's tires.

Note: This is also my first experience with AT tires on my 4Runner. So I may also just be overly sensitive, and need to get used to them.

Build:
Front : Dobinsons C59-302 + GS59-221
Rear : Dobinsons C59-505 + GS59-705
Tires : Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 275/70/R17
Wheels : 2018 4Runner SR5 "Snowflake" 17x7 (15mm bs)

You also have to remember it matters WHICH side of the road you are on. Roads are tilted for the water to run off on an angle. Try drive on the same road and then turn around and drive on the other side of that same road. Each way will be tilted the opposite way.

Best way to do this is maybe on the highway where you know it's very FLAT>

Your caster is on the low side.
More caster help the t4r go straight down the road. Less wandering.
3.5* is nice.
This is why you might need UCAs.

Get upper control arms. I shoot for 4 degrees caster. Also it looks like he either got lazy or couldn't adjust any further on the LCA, are you LCA bolts seized? Very common.

If they weren't lazy, do you think that they could get my caster to 3º or is it just fighting an uphill battle?

What in the numbers do you see that make you think they didn't adjust the LCA? Nothing is seized, it's a California car with almost no rust. I loosened the LCA bolts to install the suspension (no PB blaster was needed for any bolts/nuts, just a standard breaker bar).

It looks like they adjusted the left (caster and camber changed) but the right just a touch of camber change, like the left it basically where it was. Why not try to get closer to 0 camber and max the caster out? Looks like any alignment I'd get around my area too, it takes a good patient tech to make the numbers come out spot on but this dude didn't even get them all in the green! I wouldn't have paid for it.

Whoa! I was lead to believe the the numbers were fine, due to the lift. I should have pushed them harder to at least get the camber into spec.

Reading more into the caster being too low, I realize that this probably my major issue with being difficult keeping it straight. I think it was probably a bit low before the lift, the lift just made it worse. This is good info to bring back to them (but ideally to have had before I left/paid).

Maybe they couldn't get more adjustment with the lift. Post pics of alignment cam position and we'll see if they're swung way out. Would still recommend upper control arms to get it aligned perfect for tire life and easier driveability.

I agree, 1.4 deg is way too low for caster - it'll wander all over the place. Spec is 2.5 to 4 deg, and 4 is better than 2.5. With the 2.5" lift, you'll need aftermarket UCA's to get that much caster, keep the camber correct, and avoid tire rub all at the same time.

I used the SPC adjustable UCA's and set them so I could get 4.5 deg of caster. It drives down the highway like it's on rails now.

This is what both rear cams look like. I didn't drop the skid plate, so no shots of the front.


Either way, I realize that I am not going to be able to get close to 4º with the stock UCA, so I bought some JBAs, and will push the alignment shop (or possibly a new one) to get everything into the "green" and get the caster up to 4º. Thanks for the advice.